Wonwoo, Mithridate and soirees: China’s growing influence at London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week might fly under the mainstream radar compared to Paris and Milan, but the Fall 2025 season achieved internet virality in China. That’s largely due to South Korean music artist Wonwoo attending the Burberry show at the Tate Britain on Monday. On Weibo, #JeonWonwooBurberryLondonFashionWeek (全圆佑burberry伦敦时装周) has reached 29.8 million reads. This surge comes at a critical time for the British heritage label, as its sales in China dropped 7% YoY in the last quarter of 2024. Burberry strategically embraces East Asian celebrities Netizens recognized the house’s strategic embrace of East Asian guests, from emerging influencers like Nuria, to major KOLs such as Chinese actresses Zhang Jingyi and Tang Wei. But beyond Burberry’s star-studded FROW, the real story of LFW 2025 was the strong representation of Chinese designers on the official schedule. LFW’s Fall/Winter 2025 calendar featured an impressive lineup of Chinese designers, each showcasing their unique aesthetic and reinforcing China’s growing influence in global fashion. From avant-garde knitwear to sustainable innovation, these talents are having a significant impact internationally, particularly reflected in this season’s stream of global partnerships. How London is fostering China’s next generation of fashion talent “We have historically worked closely with partners to coordinate designer exchanges,” The British Fashion Council’s Senior Communications Executive, Eve Cousins says. “For example, last season Hu Bing supported an exchange of Chinese designers to London. We also have an environment in London that attracts incredible design talent from Asia to our leading fashion colleges.” Some designers opted for intimate presentations rather than traditional runway shows. New York-based jewelry brand Samantha Siu and Central Saint Martins alumnus Izzy Du hosted dinners to connect with their VICs, buyers, and press members. Chet Lo, whose designs are favored by celebrities like Dua Lipa and Kylie Jenner, returned to the runway with his signature spiky knits, and a contemporary Chinese take on Westernized Chinoiserie. Eveningwear by Demon Zhang, Daniel Fletcher’s Mithridate, and Huishan Zhang exuded sophisticated elegance. Taiwanese designer Ray Chu presented a dinner party setting as a romantic backdrop for his party-ready collection. Yifei Wu’s brand Weve2050 sparked buzz across Xiaohongshu, as a sustainable favorite, incorporating eco-conscious materials. Kent&Curwen’s revival under Chinese ownership A standout LFW moment was the return of British retailer Kent&Curwen to the schedule, now under the ownership of Chinese company Biemlofen. Guangzhou-based Biemlofen is a leading force in China’s golf apparel industry and has set ambitious expansion plans for Kent&Curwen in the Chinese market. In 2024, the brand launched five new stores, including a location at Macau’s Venetian Hotel. The revitalized brand aims to blend its British heritage with the evolving tastes of modern Chinese consumers. Meanwhile, JD.com continues to strengthen its partnership with London Fashion Week, reinforcing its influence in the luxury sector. Since 2015, the Chinese e-commerce giant has worked to enhance London’s global fashion credibility, most recently pledging up to 1 billion RMB ($140 million) to support the industry. As JD.com expands its presence, Chinese designers stand to benefit from increased access to international markets. Limited representation from Japanese, Korean designers While Chinese designers dominated the East Asian representation, there was a lack of Japanese or Korean designers. Tokyo-born Toga presented one of the most elevated shows, featuring a new collaboration with Asics. Fellow Japanese label Ju-Nna also showcased a collection as part of LFW’s Fashion Scout show. China has long been a prominent source of emerging talent educated in the British capital, a trend further evidenced this season. According to data from the Higher Education Statistics Agency, the number of students from the Chinese mainland at the University of the Arts London (home to Central Saint Martins and the London College of Fashion) increased from approximately 1,750 in the 2014-2015 academic year to around 5,540 in 2021-2022. Chinese fashion students shape London’s creative future “These students often chose to stay in London to establish their brands and are supported by our various initiatives,” says Cousins, adding that a key objective is to continue culturally collaborating with designers in Korea, Japan and China. Though Burberry’s Fall 2025 guest list seemingly captured the most online attention, the real takeaway was the growing prominence of Chinese designers and brands on the official schedule. As London continues to serve as a vital hub for emerging talent, its evolving collaboration with East Asia suggests an exciting future for cross-cultural fashion exchanges. And with a diverse range of talent on display, LFW is truly underscoring China’s expanding role in shaping global fashion trends, blending heritage, innovation, and sustainability on the world stage.

Viral in China: LFW’s Eastern appeal

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Viral in China: LFW’s Eastern appeal