Why the Tang suit is not a trend

Over the past year, Adidas’ athleisure take on the traditional Tang suit jacket (唐裝 tangzhuang) has circulated widely across Instagram and TikTok. Neo-Chinese style is gaining global appeal among contemporary style circles, led by local designers who are elegantly reinterpreting classics to suit today’s tastes. However, brands should consider cultural sensitivities before treating it as a “trend.” Increasingly, traditional Chinese garments are being repackaged under vague labels like “Mandarin jacket,” stripped of cultural specificity and historical grounding. While the celebration of Chinese culture is welcome, misnaming and decontextualizing these clothes reduces heritage to a visual shortcut — a move that risks turning living traditions into street-style costumes. Characterized by a mandarin collar and pankou knot buttons, the Tang jacket evolved from Qing Dynasty-era riding jackets worn by scholars and officials, later becoming a symbol of formality and cultural pride among Chinese communities worldwide. Today, it sits at the center of neo-Chinese style (新中式 xin zhongshi), a fashion movement that has risen alongside renewed pride in the reputation of “Made in China” design. Chinese designers lead the contemporary movement Independent Chinese designers have been leading this evolution long before global brands took notice. London-based designer Samuel Guì Yang, who recently reunited with Adidas for a Lunar New Year 2026 capsule following a Year of the Dragon collaboration in 2024, puts a modern spin on Tang-inspired tailoring, rooted in lived experience rather than revivalism. “As a designer, our exploration of Chinese cultural influence began with the qipao silhouette — the mandarin collar, slender proportions, and the sense of formality found in traditional Chinese suiting,” he explains. “These elements felt familiar to me growing up, and they became an instinctive starting point.” That foundation underpins pieces like his Lee jacket, which merges traditional frogging with sculptural tailoring. “For me, it’s about revisiting these references through my own experience and translating what fascinated me about the culture and context I grew up with into something contemporary,” Yang says. He notes that such references were not always easily accepted, “but I do feel there has been a shift. People are more open now, and that change feels meaningful.” Meanwhile, Shanghai-based label Ao Yes demonstrates how neo-Chinese fashion can resonate commercially without sacrificing integrity. Known for its offering of effortlessly cool, modern takes on qipaos and Tang suits, the brand has built a loyal following for its mix of historical textiles and sharp tailoring. Ao Yes’ China-exclusive capsule, spanning womenswear, menswear, and home accessories, marks its largest collaboration to date and was launched via a pop-up at Shanghai’s historic ZA Andrew and George Building. Far from diluting the brand’s identity, the project amplifies the appeal of neo-Chinese style at scale, showing that heritage-driven design can translate within mass retail for the Gen Z style set when executed with clarity and respect. Why are Tang suit jackets everywhere? Global sportswear brands have followed a similar path. Adidas, for instance, released a Tang jacket for Lunar New Year 2025, which became one of the most visible examples of Chinese cultural reinterpretation. Initially exclusive to China, the jacket featured a mandarin collar, knot buttons, and a structured silhouette. After months of viral traction across Asia, it arrived in Paris in limited locations, confirming global demand for culturally grounded design. For 2026, the Tang suit jackets with Yang are now available worldwide, in response to the global demand of the previous collection. On the latest Adidas project, Yang says, “For me, it wasn’t about placing an aesthetic onto sportswear but about finding a shared space where tailoring, craft, and performance could meet. It felt like a natural bridge between culture and everyday wear.” Designer Xander Zhou approaches tradition from a more conceptual angle. “I’ve never consciously tried to incorporate Chinese elements into my collections,” he tells Jing Daily. “What interests me more is the logic beneath it. I’m interested in translating my own background and cultural experience in ways that still feel fresh to me.” As neo-Chinese fashion gains international visibility, overseas brands looking to connect with the market must collaborate with Chinese designers and give them access to larger manufacturing and wholesale opportunities. Engaging responsibly means using correct language, understanding cultural context, and respecting the vision of the designers who have driven this style movement.

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Why the Tang suit is not a trend