Seoul to Paris: Is fashion week crucial for business in 2025?

Against the backdrop of a global luxury slowdown, the decision to splurge tens (oftentimes hundreds) of thousands to compete for buyers’ attention at New York, Milan, London or Paris fashion week is an increasingly difficult one for independent designers. As brands worldwide tighten their budgets, landing a sponsorship partner is also a challenge. In a bold yet cost-effective move, independent Chinese designer Susan Fang presented at Milan Fashion Week 2025 in partnership with Dolce&Gabbana, while other designers have gained financial support through collaborations — from Shushu/Tong’s ongoing reinterpretation of Asics sneakers to Feng Chen Wang joining forces with Ugg. The brutal reality of fashion week costs The cost is brutal for those who are yet to gain financial momentum as a business. New York show venues alone have been reported to cost from upwards of $40,000, while a full show in “more accessible” London costs upwards of 50,000 British pounds ($67,280), although rates vary season to season. Showing on schedule at Shanghai Fashion Week is a fraction of these prices. Asia’s independent fashion designers face the choice of pursuing global recognition at European fashion weeks, which can cost six figures a time, or investing those same resources in regional platforms and digital marketing strategies. “Fashion weeks remain one of the most visible platforms for reaching international press, buyers and industry stakeholders,” says Scott Lipinski, CEO of Fashion Council Germany. “For independent designers, the decision should be strategic: choosing the right format that aligns with resources, audience and long-term brand goals, while ensuring participation in fashion week in one way or another.” For the major European fashion weeks, menswear’s showcases arrive in January and June, and womenswear’s in February and September. Then there is Haute Couture in July and January, and a rising tide of niche fashion weeks, from Berlin and Copenhagen, to Tokyo and Seoul. But is showing at Paris, Milan, London, or New York worth the staggering costs and logistical hurdles, or is it more strategic to build visibility at home as social media marketing reigns as a key, low-cost route to growth? “It’s crucial for a brand to show at fashion week, as it gathers all of the industry people together,” says China-based designer Shie Lyu, who has shown at Shanghai Fashion Week. “But it really depends on the financial situation of the brand, and also where it sells its collection.” Breaking down the financial investment From venue rental and photographers, to hair and make-up artists, the costs pile up. However, some fashion hubs offer financial support and mentoring, such as the BFC Newgen initiative and Fashion East, which both serve as vital platforms for nurturing independent designers and giving them a stage at London Fashion Week (LFW). But as much as the decision is financial, the business strategy behind the brand is also a key consideration. “In the last few years, all the norms of what is crucial have shifted and moved. Designers can skip a season, or produce a beautiful campaign and still have an impact, and continue to have a presence,” says Daisy Hoppen, founder of London-based fashion PR agency DH-PR. “That said, there is no denying that a strong runway show or presentation can create buzz with that physical interaction for clothes, which is hard to replicate purely digitally.” What is most critical is creating a moment that’s authentic to a brand and its audience, she adds. Now a mainstay on the LFW schedule, Chinese designer Susan Fang has found that her brand translates best when incorporating a physical element, such as a show. The London-based talent has previously been supported through collaborations such as with Victoria’s Secret (for Fall 2024), and Dolce&Gabbana (March 2025). “Showing at fashion week is quite important for us as our brand is a lot about the human touch, emotion and balance with nature,” Fang says. “We hope to build a surreal world, and with a show we can do set design, music, explore different senses around the cultural theme — it’s essential to have physical human interaction. Also, this way we can balance some concept pieces with commercial pieces, and explore more creative ideas, and build a larger brand narrative.” Why London still matters If Paris remains the holy grail for established Asian names like Feng Chen Wang, Comme des Garçons, or Wooyoungmi, London plays a role of cultivating newer additions to the industry. For bigger labels, KOL buzz is a factor that ensures internet virality, which is another expense for smaller brands to consider: Burberry’s February 2025 show, for example, went viral on Weibo when the hashtag “JeonWonwooBurberryLondonFashionWeek” racked up nearly 30 million reads in a week. That engagement also stretched to smaller independent brands that have leveraged fashion shows as a way to go viral. Catwalks have been behind Swedish brand Avavav’s cultural relevance in the zeitgeist, on a global scale. From models falling over to walking with trash being thrown at them, the brand’s runways have harnessed shock-factor to drive conversation on a global scale. For one Milan Fashion Week season, the hashtag “Avavav stirs controversy by models walking the catwalk without wearing proper clothes” (#avavav会搞事 没穿好衣服就走秀) emerged on Weibo, attracting more than 18 million reads. Benefits of going big Despite the barriers, social media engagement case studies demonstrate why Asian designers still aspire to appear on Europe’s runways. Paris, in particular, remains the magnet for global media and buyers. The Spring 2025 Coperni catwalk show, for example, generated $16.8 million in media impact value and outperformed 91% of Paris Fashion Week’s schedule. Its viral moments, amplified by Kendall Jenner’s runway turn, proved how a single stunt can translate into hundreds of thousands of new followers, and a subsequent measurable sales spike. For designers from Asia, Paris provides access to wholesale distribution networks and builds credibility among global consumers. At Paris Fashion Week Menswear alone, Chinese brands such as Feng Chen Wang, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, and Namesake sat alongside Japan’s Yohji Yamamoto, Sacai, and Issey Miyake. That extensive East Asian presence signals that the market’s creativity is central to the global conversation. The rise of regional fashion week alternatives At the same time, the “big four’s” dominance is waning. Shanghai Fashion Week has grown into a globally recognized platform with Moncler Genius’ participation in October 2025 drawing an international audience to the city, Copenhagen becoming synonymous with sustainability standards, and Berlin’s rebrand earning respect via inventive venues and bold sustainability pilots. For Asia’s independents, European fashion weeks are both a hurdle and a springboard. They require financial daring, but do have potential to deliver unmatched global exposure. For others, saving budget for campaigns, KOL partnerships, and social media marketing could be a more cautious move against the backdrop of subdued luxury spending.

Sectors

Insights

Company

Seoul to Paris: Is fashion week crucial for business in 2025?