Vogue, Prada, Louis Vuitton: Luxury’s India missteps and triumphs

Editor's Note (06/29/25): Prada Group issued a response with the following statement, "At Prada Group, we have always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions. Prada acknowledges that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, India, were featured in its Men’s 2026 Spring Summer show in Milan. We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft. We are in contact with Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic." Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2026 menswear show on Tuesday in Paris was an ode to India. Designed by Mumbai-born architect Bijoy Jain, the show’s scenography transformed the Place Georges Pompidou into a life-size Snakes and Ladders board as an homage to the ancient Indian game. The guest list, starring actor Ishaan Khatter (2.8 million Instagram followers), dancer and actress Nora Fatehi (47.2 million), and Jaipur’s Sawai Padmanabh Singh (557,000), excited netizens. Meanwhile, other luxury houses showing in Paris and Milan appear to be missing out on connecting with the crucial Indian luxury consumer. Italian label Prada, for instance, faced a backlash all week for debuting lakh “leather flat sandals” nearly identical to Kolhapuri chappals, or “toe ring sandals,” without crediting the Indian artisans behind the centuries-old design. As India’s $17 billion luxury market is projected to more than triple by 2030, according to Bain & Company, brands cannot afford to overlook cultural acknowledgment, or genuine talent representation. “Fashion/luxury has historically been a European establishment selling to the American customer, and later on China. So, it hasn’t had the financial incentive to care about the Indian consumer or diaspora,” explains founder and CEO of Singapore-headquartered strategy consultancy Snowbird Global Gautam Ramdurai. “That has changed dramatically over the last decade. Two of the largest, most opulent weddings in the world have been of Indian tycoons’ scions (the Ambanis). Fashion is yet to realize that India could be their next China. But the economics of it will get them there, eventually,” he adds. From Met Gala to Prada: Luxury backlash In May this year, the Vogue Met Gala interview with esteemed Bollywood actor Shah Rukh Khan (47.9 million Instagram followers) drew criticism for the interviewer not being educated on who he was, and asking frivolous questions. Khan was the first Bollywood actor to attend the prestigious fashion industry event last month, undeniably marking a step forward to connecting with the Indian luxury market. Aside from missteps, one house gaining prominence in India is Louis Vuitton, with creative director Pharrell Williams taking a research trip across India and citing specific inspirations, such as turmeric, cinnamon, and coffee-indigo denim, in the show notes. The runway even saw a collaboration with Indian composer A.R. Rahman for the show’s soundtrack. Indian models walked the runway, and chappals and bejewelled trunks shared space with gem-encrusted jackets. Louis Vuitton’s show, which was covered by a plethora of major Indian media outlets, makes a clear business case that storytelling with authenticity strengthens brand equity, having been. The significance of this approach lies in the fact that Indian fashion consumers are well-versed in luxury, and have grown weary of brands that borrow aesthetics without context. India’s modern luxury buyers demand cultural respect along with craftsmanship. Indeed, while Indian designers like Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta are making waves at Paris Haute Couture Week, the presence of domestic designers at ready-to-wear fashion weeks remains limited. Londoner of dual Indian-Nigerian heritage, Priya Ahluwalia and British-Indian Supriya Lele are both independent designers who have gained prominence in the industry, showing at London Fashion Week. Authentic connection builds brand loyalty The top 1% of India’s population of 1.4 billion flies to Dubai or Singapore, or Harrods in London to buy luxury, says Ramdurai. “These consumers are not looking for ‘Indian-ness,’ but when brands do lean into that, they are more likely to favor them over the others. When brands draw from the rich cultural heritage of India, they have to question whether they are explicitly paying homage or appropriating and white-labelling.” Other houses such as Dior, through its work with the Mumbai-based Chanakya School of Craft, are also getting it right. But too many still treat Indian influence as an anonymous aesthetic rather than a living culture. India is a powerhouse of talent, taste, and tradition. As the luxury market continues to globalize, brands must invest in real partnerships with Indian creatives. Those that miss this moment, risk losing relevance.

Vogue, Prada, Louis Vuitton: Luxury’s India missteps and triumphs

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Published June 26, 2025

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Vogue, Prada, Louis Vuitton: Luxury’s India missteps and triumphs