Why Ao Yes is the neo-Chinese brand to watch at Shanghai Fashion Week

Independent Shanghainese label Ao Yes makes traditional Chinese dress like qipaos and Tang suits feel chicly nineties-esque. Conveying a contemporary oriental vibe with every collection, the three-year-old brand has built a loyal following for its progressive takes on Eastern style codes, merging elegant tailoring with historical textiles and a sensual edge. Founded by ex-editor at Vogue China and Wonderland China Austin Wang, and Tokyo Bunka Fashion College alumnus Yansong Liu, Ao Yes is becoming one of the country’s most distinguished emerging names, selling globally via multi-brand retailer Ssense. On Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote), #AoYes has 1.3 million reads. Yet, it was the Chinese New Year 2025 Zara capsule that piqued online attention. The product of a China-exclusive collaboration with the Spanish fashion company, the collection made a powerful case for neo-Chinese style (新中式). It was Ao Yes’ largest collaborative project to date, encompassing womenswear, menswear and home accessories, dropped via a pop-up at Shanghai’s historic ZA Andrew and George Building. Previous collections have featured Swarovski crystals, as well as a collaboration with Disney and domestic accessories brand Qìqì. That Zara project encapsulated the commercial viability of the label, as has every Ao Yes showcase at Shanghai Fashion Week (SHFW). Prices start at around $100 for a T-shirt, going up to some $670 for a blazer, placing the brand at the lower end of luxury that is more accessible for younger consumers. In the lead up to the Shanghai show on Monday 31st March, Jing Daily spoke to Wang about the brand’s journey thus far, and what’s next. Jing Daily: What inspired you to establish Ao Yes, and how do you define its core mission and vision? Austin Wang: In 2022, during a period of global uncertainty, I made the decision to leave my long-time job at Vogue and co-found Ao Yes with Yansong, who had just returned from Japan. At the time, many doubted our seemingly reckless decision due to the challenging environment, but Yansong and I were determined to create a modern oriental brand that breaks conventional perceptions. We also hoped that more people — whether those with cultural confidence, or those interested in Eastern culture — would wear our designs. JD: How does Ao Yes reinterpret traditional Chinese elements to appeal to contemporary fashion audiences? AW: ‘Modernity’ and ‘oriental’ have always been key pillars of our brand. We also aim to tone down the formality and occasion-specific feel often associated with new Chinese style, instead creating designs that preserve cultural depth while aligning with contemporary aesthetics. This bold and modern reinterpretation not only appeals to China’s fashion-forward audience, but also holds the potential for cross-cultural influence. JD: How did the Zara collaboration come about, and what was the creative process behind it? AW: The CNY collaboration with Zara originated from a shared vision of expressing oriental culture. We brought our unique interpretation of Chinese elements and signature designs — such as classic jacquard fabrics, distinctive silhouettes, and hand-painted patterns — into this partnership with Zara. Through in-depth discussions, both brands blended traditional Chinese festive elements, such as the Chinese knot, with modern fashion design, creating a collaborative collection that captures the festive spirit while maintaining a contemporary appeal. JD: How is Zara viewed in China? How do you think collabs like this contribute to your brand’s identity? AW: In China, Zara is regarded as a global fashion benchmark, known for its keen ability to capture trends and swiftly respond to market demands. The CNY collaboration not only reflects Zara’s respect and recognition of local culture, but also reinforces its diverse and innovative brand image by integrating oriental aesthetics. Through Zara’s extensive market reach, this partnership brought us closer to Chinese consumers. JD: How has participating in SHFW influenced Ao Yes’ brand recognition and development? AW: In recent years, SHFW has garnered increasing attention from international buyers, media, and KOLs, enhancing brand visibility and laying the foundation for our global collaborations. JD: Who is Ao Yes’s primary audience, and what strategies do you employ to engage them? AW: Our target audience remains those who pursue fashion and individuality while appreciating cultural depth. For example, on social media, we run the @AoYesFace account, where we share customer portraits that showcase diverse styling expressions. We also engage with our audience through offline pop-up stores, creating interactive experiences and gathering direct feedback. JD: What steps does Ao Yes take to ensure sustainable and eco-friendly production methods? AW: The fashion industry has long faced the challenge of overproduction. At Ao Yes, we adhere to a production-on-demand principle, ensuring that we only manufacture based on order volumes. By avoiding excessive production, every Ao Yes piece finds its way into someone’s wardrobe. We believe this approach embodies a truly sustainable and environmentally responsible practice. JD: Are there any upcoming collaborations or projects that you’re particularly excited about? AW: Following our previous collaborations with international brands and IPs such as Zara and Disney, we will be partnering with another global brand for this fashion week. Through Ao Yes’ oriental perspective, we continue to connect with the world. However, as the project is still under wraps, please stay tuned for more details. JD: How do you see neo-Chinese style developing in the global fashion industry, and what role does Ao Yes play in that evolution? AW: We hope that our designs, which blend unique oriental aesthetics with modernity, can truly reach the global stage. More importantly, we want consumers to explore new styling possibilities through Ao Yes — not just for Chinese festivals, but as a seamless part of their everyday lives.

Meet Ao Yes, the brand at the vanguard of neo-Chinese style

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Meet Ao Yes, the brand at the vanguard of neo-Chinese style