Laura Weir’s London Fashion Week reconnects with Asia

London Fashion Week (LFW) significantly expanded its Asian designer representation for Spring 2026, featuring the highest concentration of Chinese and broader Asian talent in recent years. The growth reflects investment from the British Fashion Council (BFC) and London’s appeal as a platform for emerging international designers. Where September 2024 featured just four Chinese brands (Chet Lo, Yuhan Wang, Huishan Zhang, and Mithridate) the Spring 2026 edition welcomed a much larger contingent. Independent labels from China included Oscar Ouyang, who was a BFC Newgen debut, Kyle Ho, Claudia Wang, Demon Zhang, Hengdi Wang, Ray Chu, Susan Fang, and Jenn Lee, joining established LFW figures Yuhan Wang and Mithridate. Designers from India further reinforced broader Asian representation, with Ashish Chanchlani — who has brought his sequin-embellished aesthetic to LFW since 2005 — and viral menswear brand Harri, which joined the schedule in 2024. The expanded roster represents a notable shift in LFW’s designer demographics. London’s educational edge attracts global talent Having been supported by Chinese talent incubator Labelhood to show at Shanghai Fashion Week in 2024, designer Hengdi Wang discussed with Jing Daily the reason he opted to present in the British capital this year. “London’s fashion ecosystem is uniquely open to avant-garde narratives and conceptual storytelling, allowing us to push boundaries and present collections that are as much about philosophy and future-thinking as they are about clothing,” he says. “Shanghai grounds me in my cultural roots and connects me with China’s dynamic fashion scene, while London allows me to place my work in an international dialogue.” Educated at the London College of Fashion, Wang exemplifies the impact London’s art education system has on the city’s fashion week offering. “Our world class colleges are renowned for attracting the best young creatives and with the energy and infrastructure of London, these students stay here to set up their businesses,” British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir tells Jing Daily. The expanded international focus comes under new leadership, with Weir taking the helm as BFC CEO in April 2025. Weir, who previously served as creative director at Selfridges, succeeded Caroline Rush after her 16-year tenure leading the organization. The leadership transition has coincided with the BFC’s increased investment in global programming. London is a launchpad for emerging voices While Paris maintains dominance over luxury maisons and hosts leading Chinese luxury brand Iceberg alongside celebrated independent talent such as Didu and Caroline Hu, other fashion capitals show sparser Asian representation. Milan features primarily Jimmy Choo, Sarawong, Jarel Zhang, Hui, and Vietnamese designer Phan Dan Hoang. New York attracts commercial Asian players including Sandy Liang, Kim Shui, and Grace Ling, who has dressed Kylie Jenner. London continues to position itself as the best platform for emerging Asian brands. “London Fashion Week is the optimal commercial platform for these designers, allowing them visibility without being overshadowed by big brands,” Weir says. The second season of Hu Bing Selects — the BFC’s initiative spotlighting Asian designers — helped launch Beijing-based label Equal Etherea, founded by Aya Maruyama. The program underscores London’s strategic position as an international hub for Asian creative debuts. For Wang, the openness to experimentation is essential. “LFW has been incredibly receptive to diverse voices and global perspectives,” Wang says. “As a Chinese designer, I feel that my heritage is not just acknowledged, but seen as an asset that brings fresh narratives to the table.” Burberry’s high-stakes engagement with Asia For Burberry, which, in July, reported a 5% YoY decline in Greater China sales for Q1 2025 despite global revenue beating analyst expectations, Asian markets are of paramount importance. The house’s Summer 2026 collection achieved over 40.8 million Weibo impressions under the hashtag “Burberry2026summer series” (#Burberry2026夏季系列), amplified by celebrity attendees including actresses Tang Wei and Zhang Jingyi, Stray Kids member Kim Seung-Min, and actor Wu Lei (Leo). Wu’s appointment as Burberry brand ambassador in July 2024 was a particularly strategic choice. With over 48 million followers on Weibo and more than 518 million impressions on Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote), Wu embodies the digital resonance Burberry seeks to reignite momentum in China. His London show attendance, alongside regional stars, reinforced Burberry’s commitment to Asia-facing global positioning. Since its post-pandemic return in September 2022, Burberry has become an anchor for LFW, attracting a flock of international buyers which, in turn, benefits emerging talent, too. A stronger platform for international recognition Beyond the catwalk, London Fashion Week itself is evolving into a more powerful platform for international visibility. “This season we have doubled the investment in the International Guest Programme, allowing us to welcome more of the world’s leading press and buyers to the city,” says Weir. “Our role is to ensure that diversity is felt through the long-term success of designers that establish and develop their brands in London.” This season, the LFW team made international reach a priority, a strategy manifested in cross-cultural collaborations like Daniel Fletcher serving as creative director at Chinese luxury label Mithridate, alongside debuts such as India’s AK|OK Anamika Khanna. LFW Spring 2026 reinforced the city’s role as the global stage where Asian designers and brands can thrive. From a broader roster of Chinese and Indian talent to Burberry’s sustained courting of Asian audiences, the event reflected both cultural momentum and strategic necessity. With programs like Hu Bing Selects nurturing emerging names and Burberry leveraging Asian celebrity influence to offset China slowdown concerns, London continues to establish itself as fashion’s most internationally inclusive platform.

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Laura Weir’s London Fashion Week reconnects with Asia