Best collaborator: Feng Chen Wang#
Building off a collaboration-heavy 2022, Feng Chen Wang continued that strong streak through 2023.
The Chinese-born, London-based designer orchestrated a symphony of style in each co-branded collection this year, seamlessly blending sustainability and inclusivity with her technical sportswear prowess. This is evident in her extensive Nike collection and her fourth collaboration with Ugg, where she put a fresh spin on the Tasman shoe.
Best rising star: Dingyun Zhang#
Central Saint Martins graduate Dingyun Zhang worked alongside Kanye West at Yeezy before showcasing his own collection in 2020 at London Fashion Week. After collaborating with Moncler in 2021, the New Mongol-born, Beijing-raised designer partnered with Marni on an extensive collection in 2023.
Subsequently, Zhang’s eponymous brand worked with Chinese sportswear brand Anta on a collection that went viral in China. The official hashtag #Anta|Chenpengjointseries (#Anta|Chenpeng联名系列) garnered over 9 million reads. At just 28 years old, Zhang is carving out a bright future for himself with his distinct aesthetic.
Best cult designer: Chen Peng#
Chen Peng, a London College of Fashion graduate with a Master's degree in Menswear Fashion Design Technology, has solidified his reputation as the ultimate haute couturier of puffer fashion.
In 2023, his eponymous brand Chenpeng had a significant breakthrough, making its iconic debut at Paris Fashion Week. It was also the year that Chenpeng launched collaborations with Robbi and, most notably, MM6 Maison Margiela. The latter gained global recognition for seamlessly integrating Chenpeng's distinct silhouettes with the sophisticated monochromatic style and logo detailing characteristic of the French luxury label.
Best 'it girl' designer: Rui Zhou#
The queen of cut-out mesh, Rui Zhou, won the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld prize in 2021 and has since established a strong community around her namesake brand. Worn by music artists like Cardi B, Sevdaliza, Pink, Billie Eilish, and Anitta over the past year, Rui's designs exude "it girl" sex appeal.
This was confirmed in 2023 when Victoria’s Secret selected the Chinese designer for a collaboration over the summer. "Putting on pajamas, for most people, is the most comfortable and natural interaction that clothes have with the body," Rui told Jing Daily. "Our brand has always embraced and accepted the truest form of the wearer. We hope that this collaboration with Victoria's Secret can continue to convey this attitude to everyone in home clothing — self-love and self-care."
Buzziest designer: Didu#
Over the course of 2023, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp alumnus collaborated with AD Milano on five runway looks while launching a plethora of custom outfits for superstars around the world.
From styling the likes of Doja Cat, Rosalia, and Sza to serving disruptive, avant-garde looks at Paris Fashion Week, Didu is one to watch as a style-setter in the industry.