Ekitike at Balenciaga, Lisa at Louis Vuitton: Paris Fashion Week briefing

Paris Fashion Week’s Fall 2026 season ended on March 10 with X Files actress Gillian Anderson closing for Miu Miu. It was a fitting end to a schedule of shows that together felt nostalgic for fashion of the 1990s and 2000s, marking a bold shift from the streetwear era. New creative directors including Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe settled into their roles this season, with a clear commercial mandate. In a market defined by economic uncertainty and shifting consumer priorities, designers leaned into investment pieces, emotional resonance, and enduring design. The result was a season that balanced escapism with strategy — playful nostalgia on the runway, louder aesthetics pushing quiet luxury aside, and a renewed focus on categories with clear commercial return. Below, Jing Daily breaks down the defining themes from the Fall/Winter 2026 shows. Childlike nostalgia When the world feels unstable, fashion often turns backward for comfort. This season in Paris, that instinct manifested as childlike nostalgia — playful, surreal, and deliberately whimsical. At Stella McCartney, the designer tapped directly into childhood memory through a collaboration with Hasbro’s My Little Pony. Live horses moved through the show space under the direction of equestrian performer Jean-François Pignon, while invitations took the form of vintage My Little Pony figurines, each finished with a logo-engraved medallion. Accessories also carried the theme. French leather house Moynat unveiled a new collaboration with Hong Kong artist Kasing Lung on March 6. The Labubu capsule, spanning tote bags in small, medium, and large formats alongside the Hobo, Mini 48h, and Moynat’s petite suitcase, expanded the brand’s whimsical collectible universe. Smaller leather goods included cardholders, passport covers, and charms designed to clip onto bags. Runway staging echoed the mood. At Loewe, giant plush creatures occupied the front row — including a massive octopus and whale — while cartoonish inflatable elements punctuated the set. Goodbye quiet luxury, hello loud bohemia If the past few years were defined by quiet luxury, Fall/Winter 2026 suggests a pivot to maximalist chic, from frills to clashing florals. Paris runways embraced a louder, layered aesthetic marrying bohemian romanticism with noughties indie sleaze nostalgia — Chanel’s show opened to a remix of Lady Gaga’s 2008 chart-topper Just Dance. Florals clashed with tartans. Prints were layered over prints. Frills, tassels, and long flowing silhouettes dominated. At Chloé, femininity was exuberant. Colorful tartans collided with ruffles and flowing dresses, producing a free-spirited wardrobe that rejected restraint. The look felt celebratory — part bohemian wanderer, part indie-era nostalgia. Meanwhile, Dries Van Noten’s show conveyed strong indie sleaze undertones. Under the creative leadership of Julian Klausner, the collection mixed preppy staples with youth-driven styling: tartan fabrics, ties, and baseball jackets layered into deliberately eclectic outfits. Even heritage houses leaned into the maximalist shift. Lanvin opted for exaggerated, oversized hats, and at Chanel, handbags appeared dotted with flowers or finished in metallic pink and blue tones — small but telling departures from minimalism. After seasons dominated by neutral palettes and understatement, Paris signaled that fashion may be rediscovering the joy of dressing up once more. Looking East Chinese designers continued to strengthen their presence in Paris, bringing distinct aesthetics that expanded the week’s creative conversation beyond the dominant European and American voices. Among them, Ruohan Nie, Caroline Hu, Luchen, and Uma Wang each presented collections that balanced craft, narrative, and global appeal. While their visual languages differ — from Hu’s romantic volumes to Wang’s textured minimalism — the designers collectively underscored China’s growing role not just as a market, but as a creative force shaping the direction of international fashion. As luxury brands increasingly court Chinese consumers, the growing prominence of Chinese designers on the Paris Fashion Week calendar reflects a broader shift toward cultural dialogue rather than one-directional influence. Celebrity impact Star power remained central to Paris Fashion Week’s digital impact, particularly across China’s social platforms. Eileen Gu, the freeskiing champion, generated major traction wearing Iris van Herpen a the Grand Dîner du Louvre, while K-pop stars like Yeji of ITZY and Jisoo of Blackpink quickly went viral on Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote). At Balenciaga, Liverpool FC soccer player Hugo Ekitike drew attention seated on the front row, potentially foreshadowing an upcoming brand ambassadorship. Lisa and Zendaya delivered one of the week’s buzziest A-list moments at Louis Vuitton, while Pharrell Williams attended Dior. On the runways themselves, supermodels were notably less prominent than in recent seasons. One notable exception was Anok Yai walking for Chanel. The shift suggests brands appear to be reallocating budgets — investing more in viral celebrity moments than in high-profile model lineups. Strategic categories: Outerwear and handbags Beyond aesthetics, Paris Fashion Week also revealed where luxury brands are placing their commercial bets. Outerwear emerged as a key category across the week’s collections. According to Simon Longland, Director of Buying, Fashion at Harrods, “This season, exceptional jackets were undeniably the standout pieces. The breadth and quality on offer were remarkable — from Tom Ford to Saint Laurent, and from Dior to Chanel, as well as Celine and Alaïa. Across these collections, jackets became the defining piece — often the item that carried the strongest design statement.” Longland also observed a broader industry shift toward product longevity and investment dressing. As the accessible luxury sector expands, consumers are increasingly turning to luxury houses not for everyday basics but for statement outerwear, handbags, and collectible accessories. If the PFW shows proved anything this season, it’s that creativity and commerce are moving closer together.

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Ekitike at Balenciaga, Lisa at Louis Vuitton: Paris Fashion Week briefing