Didu, Caroline Hu, and Vivienne Tam: Paris Fashion Week collabs

Ending today, Paris Fashion Week’s Spring 2025 season served up a plethora of brand collaborations. Cecilie Bahnsen debuted a collection with The North Face, Italian fashion designer Stefano Pilati presented a high-low crossover with Zara, and Stella McCartney unveiled another Adidas line at her show. Also continuing its partnership with Adidas Originals was Chinese dreamer-couturier Caroline Hu at Palais de Tokyo. For designers hailing from the mainland, the Spring 2025 season looks to be one dominated by co-branded collections. Combining marketing exposure and financial support, many new-era talents are relying on this business model. Read on for our verdict on these, and subscribe here to receive these updates straight to your inbox every Tuesday. Didu x Daphne.Lab Details: Bottle opener accessory, Spring 2025 show on September 26 Social context: On Xiaohongshu, #didu has 310,800 reads, and #daphnelab has 23.2 million. Verdict: The “Sexy Sad I” collection by Didu captures the tension between past and present, combining nostalgic references to early 2000s fashion with avant-garde design elements, an aesthetic concept that links to Daphne.Lab’s urban brand image. Though Didu has become a PFW fixture, as an independent label, the designer looks to relevant partnerships for sponsorship while, in return, Daphne.Lab is able to be seen on schedule at the prestigious fashion event, amping up its reputation globally. In the past, Daphne.Lab has collaborated with other Chinese designers, such as Markknull, incorporating fashion into its strategy to support the industry, and simultaneously gain relevance among the style set. Caroline Hu x Adidas Originals Details: Adidas Originals SL72 and Superstar sneakers, November 2024 Social context: On Xiaohongshu, #CarolineHu has 1.3 million reads, and #adidas has 1.17 billion reads. Verdict: Caroline Hu’s Spring 2025 collection for PFW delves into the emotional depths of love and death, capturing the beauty and fragility of these experiences. The collection uses prints of flowers, mountains, and skies to visually narrate fleeting connections and moments of reflection, reminding us of the transience of life and relationships – a concept that Adidas Originals is able to be part of through collaboration. Adidas Originals continues to partner with various designers to maintain relevance across a multitude of markets. Its localization strategy is industry-leading. Past Chinese designer collaborations include Shuting Qiu and Rui Zhou. The collection’s fabric choices blend sportswear-inspired technical materials with high-fashion luxury fabrics like silk taffeta and organza, creating an interplay between performance gear and delicate textures. The continued partnership with Sophie Hallette for tulle lace appliques and Hu’s signature smocking technique showcase her ability to merge romantic detailing with innovative, modern approaches. This is complemented by her reinterpretation of Adidas Originals, highlighting the juxtaposition of sport and high fashion. Vivienne Tam x Li artisans Details: Collection, Spring 2025 Social context: On Xiaohongshu, #VivienneTam has 6.2 million reads. Verdict: Vivienne Tam’s Spring 2025 collection, “La Li – Hainan Breeze,” draws on the rich cultural heritage of Hainan’s Li ethnic minority, particularly their 3,000-year-old brocade weaving traditions. Through intricate patterns and traditional iconography, Tam modernizes ancient techniques, blending them with contemporary fashion elements while highlighting the importance of preserving cultural craftsmanship in a globalized world. This collection embodies Tam’s commitment to sustainability and local artisanship by using fabrics crafted by Li artisans using indigenous methods. By employing traditional craftsmanship and locally sourced materials, Tam emphasizes the ethical and ecological value of fashion, promoting the empowerment of artisans and the preservation of cultural heritage. The collection continues Tam’s signature blend of Eastern and Western influences, combining the tropical vibrancy of Hainan’s natural beauty with modern, athleisure-inspired silhouettes.

Chinese designers’ collab coups at Paris Fashion Week

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Chinese designers’ collab coups at Paris Fashion Week