Diamond PJs and vicuña dressing gowns: Luxury’s sleepwear opportunity

This article will soon be exclusive to Jing Daily Pro* subscribers, with a membership that accesses our most focused, insightful coverage yet. Pre-register for a free trial, coming this summer. - Sleepwear to many people refers to endearingly mismatched, comfortable clothes that are specifically not for public viewing. To some Olivia von Halle customers, they’re among the most glamorous clothes in a wardrobe, crafted from 100% silk with 0.34 carat ruby and 0.30 carat diamond buttons. That describes the brand’s Yves Desire Ivory Pyjamas, designed in collaboration with London-based diamond jeweler Jessica McCormack – one pair will set consumers back $20,700 (124,900 RMB). The China opportunity Splashing out to this extent on sleepwear is only for the ultra wealthy. And in 2023, it was reported that China is home to around 562 of the world’s estimated 2,640 billionaires, and 46,060 ultra wealthy individuals. In short, there is fertile ground for the uber-luxury sleepwear segment in the mainland. On a global scale, the luxury sleepwear market is predicted to reach $2 billion by 2025, expanding at a CAGR of 6%. From the trending Versace dressing gown being donned by just about every influencer around the world over the past few years, to Kim Kardashian's loungewear brand Skims being one of only four American brands in the latest Lyst Index, the demand for designer pajamas is very much there, and growing. “China is definitely a strong market for us and quite dear to my heart as I’ve lived in Shanghai for a long time and that’s where the idea of founding the brand first sprung to mind,” says Olivia von Halle, founder of her eponymous brand. The label’s silk satin Lila pajamas, priced at $695 (5,048 RMB), sell particularly well in China. Seeing as silk has such rich cultural nuance, being a textile originally created in Neolithic China using threads from silkworm cocoons, many Chinese consumers resonate with, and trust, the fabric. Historically, it provided a significant income for small farmers. Then as weaving techniques advanced, local silk gained a prestigious reputation and became highly sought after by various ancient empires. The British fashion designer, whose idea for her brand started in Shanghai, continues,“Since the very early days of the brand, season after season, [the Lila] remains a consumer favorite, across all markets including China,” the British designer tells Jing Daily. “The floral prints are always extremely popular in the market, with a preference for fair colors and pastel shades.” That self-expression of colors and prints stretches across all industries within luxury, whether that be customizable automotives, or, in this case, bespoke pajamas. Joining Olivia von Halle at the upper end of luxury sleepwear is Savile Row store Daniel Hanson, whose bespoke offering of PJs retail at over $10,900 (79,200 RMB) each. Primarily known for luxurious dressing gowns, the brand’s priciest offering is made-to-order pure Vicuña designs, starting from over $46,000 (332,850 RMB). Celebrity potential Son of co-founders Daniel and Julie, Julian Hanson describes one of the most extravagant products that the brand offers – a hand-embroidered cashmere dressing gown that requires around 350 hours of hand embroidery. “These are limited to three on each design. Sir Elton John owns one and another was purchased by a private customer,” he says. Ever since its inception in 1989, the brand has been known for making pajamas for royalty, as well as an array of celebrity clientele. Hanson continues on the topic of the brand’s consumers: “Individuals who appreciate the finer things; specifically art, interior design, and well-cut garments. They can feel that the quality we exhibit is not ‘a flashy PR campaign,’ but pure, well-sourced fibers from the best cloth producers worldwide, and a true attention-to-detail at both the design and manufacture stages.” Interestingly, Daniel Hanson does not invest in any advertising. After all, aiming to reach the ultra-wealthy does not necessarily require a mainstream strategy. Instead, the brand relies on reputation, as well as being a bathrobe supplier to the likes of Harrods, Bergdorf Goodman, and others. “Nowadays we don’t have stockists, but many of our private customers return to us year on year,” says Hanson. Feeling good, looking better Despite economic challenges, including a spending downturn, ultra-wealthy consumers in China are evidently continuing to splurge on what they wear to bed. “There is definitely high demand for super luxurious and unique products. People want to feel the best versions of themselves when they’re lounging in their homes, as much as when they’re out and about,” says Von Halle. “They also care much more about the quality and craftsmanship of what they buy, and really value those special pieces that can be treasured in one’s wardrobe forever.” Her namesake brand continues to create limited edition embroidered collections approximately twice a year. One stand-out reason for purchases is for weddings. On the lavish Jessica McCormack collaboration, she continues, “Bridal is also at the core of both our businesses, so we really wanted to create something uber luxurious and special for them.” While most luxury houses offer sleepwear at lower price points, from Fendi’s $2,490 Brown Silk Pyjamas, to Versace’s $550 (3,970 RMB) Baroque bathrobe, there is undeniably space for ultra-bespoke offerings that more brands could be exploring.

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Diamond PJs and vicuña dressing gowns: Luxury’s sleepwear opportunity