Denis Dekovic’s advice for Chinese sportswear: Be a leader, not a follower

Striving for innovation is a universal pursuit in design, and Denis Dekovic, a creative director and visionary, has made this his mission. The designer behind legendary sneaker silhouettes such as Nike Magistas (the world's-first Flyknit football boots), Dekovic’s storied career in sportswear has shaped the aesthetics of some of the world’s biggest names, from Nike to Adidas and Fila. Collaborating with global megastars such as Michael Jackson, Pharrell Williams, Naomi Campbell, Cristiano Ronaldo, and Michael Schumacher, his work over the past three decades has consistently pushed the boundaries of design, cementing a lasting legacy in the industry. Now, Dekovic’s attention is shifting to China. Since his first visit in 1998, he has closely followed the remarkable evolution of China’s sportswear industry. Dekovic observes that while Chinese brands have long followed in the footsteps of global giants like Nike and Adidas, the time has come for them to forge their own path and emerge as leaders. Recognizing China’s immense potential, Dekovic believes that the sportswear industry is on the verge of a new era and urges Chinese brands to take the lead by setting new benchmarks rather than simply imitating Western counterparts. In this Jing Masterminds interview, the design expert explores how China’s domestic names could ascend to global prominence in the sportswear industry. Jing Daily: As a visionary in the sportswear industry, what do you see as the unique strengths and challenges for Chinese brands in today's global market? Denis Dekovic: “Over the past three decades, Chinese sportswear brands have made remarkable progress, successfully adopting strategies and aesthetics from their Western counterparts. Their unique strengths lie in product creation, manufacturing, and technological innovation. Chinese brands have demonstrated impressive capabilities in developing cutting-edge products and manufacturing them efficiently. However, to truly establish themselves as global leaders, these brands must transition from being followers to pioneers. While they have excelled in adopting Western trends, they now need to create their own distinctive identity and innovate beyond existing paradigms. Top executives at these companies are aware of this opportunity and recognize the need for a significant transformation. However, executing this vision across the entire organization can be challenging. This involves not only addressing mindset shifts but also navigating cultural barriers. To successfully lead this transformation, companies must align their entire organization with the new vision and overcome internal obstacles. By doing so, Chinese brands can position themselves as true leaders in the future of the sportswear industry.” JD: Do you have any early memories of Chinese sportswear? DD: “The first Chinese sportswear brand that really caught my attention was Li-Ning. Unlike many other Chinese brands that evolved from manufacturing, Li-Ning was different from the start. This uniqueness set them apart in a market where many brands were driven by production capabilities. Although they achieved impressive numbers early on, their products didn’t initially stand out in terms of innovation or cultural relevance. Today, however, Li-Ning has transformed into a much more compelling brand, with significant improvements in design and brand identity. While they’ve made strides, there’s still more work to be done to achieve true cultural relevance on a global scale.” JD: Do you foresee any specific Chinese sports brands achieving the same global cult status as Nike or Adidas in the coming years? DD: “Chinese sports brands possess exceptional talent in engineering and design, and they are fully capable of producing high-quality products. However, what they currently lack is the ability to craft compelling narratives and effectively communicate their brand stories—an essential aspect that requires creativity and imagination. At present, many Chinese brands tend to mirror Nike’s approach, using it as a benchmark for their own projects. While this has helped them grow, true leadership in the industry is about setting the standard, not following it. When you’re a leader, you build confidence through your own unique process and vision, without needing to compare yourself to others. For Chinese brands to become globally desirable, they must shift from imitation to innovation. Developing their own distinct voice, deeply rooted in consumer insights, and trusting in their ability to lead is crucial. By understanding and listening to their consumers, they can build a brand identity that resonates globally.” JD: What is China currently bringing to the industry? DD: “Over the past four decades, through manufacturing partnerships with global brands, China has been a driving force in sports industry innovation. This has enabled the country to develop world-class expertise in engineering and problem-solving. With a wealth of talent and cutting-edge technology, China has established itself as a critical player on the global stage. What’s needed now is a clear, forward-thinking vision. This vision is essential to channel China’s vast expertise and resources into new, transformative directions that will shape the future of the industry.” JD: What is the main global hurdle for brands like Anta or Li-Ning? DD: “Chinese culture, deeply rooted in logic and experience, excels in embracing tangible and measurable ideas. However, the key to global leadership lies in fostering creativity and imagination—the ability to see opportunities that others might overlook and to anticipate future trends before they emerge. During my time in China, I’ve met designers, engineers, and leaders who have the potential to unleash remarkable creativity. But cultural norms can sometimes constrain this potential, as creativity and imagination are not yet fully recognized and valued as crucial drivers of new business opportunities and growth. That said, this landscape can change rapidly. All it takes is one visionary leader willing to take bold risks, supported by a team capable of turning that vision into reality.” JD: What key factors should Chinese sportswear brands consider when entering the Western market? DD: “Many Chinese sportswear brands have their roots in manufacturing, so their passion and focus is heavily on the product itself. While having a strong product is crucial, it’s not the whole picture. In Western markets, consumers don’t just buy products—they buy dreams, and those dreams are built on compelling stories. The ability to tell these stories in a visually captivating way is essential for capturing the consumer’s imagination and triggering the emotions that drive purchasing decisions. Brands like Anta are beginning to understand this, investing significantly in their communication strategies. However, just as they have to master product design, they must also become skilled in storytelling. By inspiring people to engage in sports through unique and authentic narratives, they can truly connect with their audience—because without sport, there is no sportswear industry.” JD: Do you feel any luxury houses are doing well in their sportswear offerings? DD: “At the moment, no luxury house has truly distinguished itself in the sportswear segment. We’ve seen brands like Balenciaga achieve temporary success with initiatives such as their sneaker line, but overall, the luxury sector has yet to fully seize this opportunity. The silver lining for luxury brands is that these brief successes indicate a clear consumer willingness to pay a premium for sports products. This not only creates an opportunity to expand within the sneaker market but also to innovate and redefine what luxury sportswear can be. The potential is there—it's just waiting to be unlocked by a brand with the right vision.” JD: What is defining the sportswear industry in 2024? DD: “Right now, the sportswear industry lacks a true leader—someone who can set the pace in terms of mindset, imagination, and innovation. While one brand may dominate in size and market presence, the industry as a whole is missing a visionary force to propel it forward. The last major innovation in sportswear likely occurred around 2015. Since then, the industry has leaned heavily on nostalgia, reissuing and recrafting popular classic franchises. While this approach has been profitable, it has also led to a sense of stagnation. For any brand to succeed in the future, it must be forward-thinking. Consumers inevitably grow tired of seeing the same products and begin to crave something new. The first brand to break this cycle and introduce truly innovative ideas will define the next chapter of the sportswear industry. I firmly believe that Chinese brands are uniquely positioned to lead this new era. They have the expertise and, unlike Nike, Adidas, or Puma, they aren’t burdened by the need to protect a legacy or adhere to a specific brand DNA. Without classic franchises to rely on, Chinese brands are free to create entirely new aesthetics and functionalities. What they need now is to fully unleash their creativity and imagination, driven by a deep understanding of consumer needs and desires. This could be the key to defining the future of sportswear.” Jing Daily presents Jing Masterminds — a regular, exclusive interview series profiling today’s most iconic names in art, fashion, commerce and culture. Delving deep into their personal journeys, creative processes, business strategies and societal impacts, the series offers readers an intimate look at the lives and minds shaping our industries.

Denis Dekovic’s advice for Chinese sportswear: Be a leader, not a follower

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Published August 21, 2024

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Denis Dekovic’s advice for Chinese sportswear: Be a leader, not a follower