China’s Paris power play: Designers, KOLs, retail expansion

Paris Fashion Week’s (PFW) Fall 2025 schedule, which concluded yesterday, showcased an era of luxury that embraces daring imperfections, and promotes inclusivity and accessibility. Miu Miu models wore cartoonishly pointy bras, Valentino set its runway in red-hued public toilets, Louis Vuitton transformed its venue into a train station scene, and Balenciaga presented purposely creased suits and “normcore” aesthetics. China’s presence was felt across the schedule, with its designers, key opinion leaders (KOLs), and businesses making a significant impact on the global fashion scene. Chinese designers bring fresh perspectives Along with the countless luxury houses now accessorizing looks with knickers and “nip-slips,” Chinese designers brought a progressive, sex-positive energy to Parisian runways. Rui Zhou (周瑞), founder of the eponymous label Rui, presented “Edge of Touch,” a Fall/Winter 2025 collection that masterfully played with knots and ties, incorporating printed beads and shell pendants as symbols of maternal emotion. The collection’s lightweight textures captured a unique blend of purity and sensuality. Notably, the presentation featured a performance by Japanese adult actress Kominato Yotsuha, underscoring Rui’s commitment to destigmatizing sex work. Similarly bold was Didu’s “Skin and Bones: Layers of Desire” collection. The Shanghai-born, Paris-based designer Di Du (杜丁) continued her exploration of fetish-inspired fashion, further cementing the experimental spirit emerging from China’s contemporary design scene. Beyond her runway presentation, Didu extended her influence by hosting a party that became a nexus for Chinese digital tastemakers, effectively bridging Chinese online engagement with PFW’s physical experience. In contrast to these avant-garde approaches, Shiatzy Chen (夏姿·陈), a stalwart in luxury Chinese fashion, leaned into heritage with a collection dedicated to Miao embroidery, an intangible cultural heritage of China. The brand’s collaboration with the Guizhou government delicately balanced cultural preservation and modern innovation. Through including Miao embroidery artisans in Shanghai, the brand achieved a sophisticated balance between preserving traditional craftsmanship and advancing modern luxury aesthetics. Known as a label perhaps more popular among older consumers, Shiatzy Chen is evidently attempting to attract younger audiences by fusing these traditional techniques with a more streetwear edge for Fall 2025. Uma Wang (马文), one of China’s most internationally recognized designers, took inspiration from Renaissance art, with a collection influenced by Piero della Francesca’s Madonna del Parto (Pregnant Madonna). Her exploration of femininity through exaggerated hips, cinched waists, and elongated torsos was a masterclass in blending historical references with avant-garde tailoring. Meanwhile, mainstream luxury brand Icicle made a significant business move with its Paris presentation, unveiling its Atelier line, which integrates French artisanship with Chinese innovation and marks its expansion into the European market. Strategic retail and business developments Beyond celebrity and design, Chinese brands are making significant inroads into the European market. Icicle’s debut at Paris Fashion Week was set at its soon-to-open Rond-point Des Champs-Élysées outpost, signifying China’s growing stake in global fashion capitals. A brand with roots in Shanghai and Paris, Icicle is introducing a sustainable, minimalist aesthetic that aligns with European sensibilities while maintaining its Chinese identity. Under the creative direction of France’s Bénédicte Laloux, the brand’s decision to launch its wholesale business represents a strategic push for greater global integration. Digital dominance through KOL influence The digital impact of Chinese KOLs at Paris Fashion Week revealed their ability to amplify the global conversation around Paris Fashion Week. Didu’s party was a hotspot for Chinese influencers, reinforcing the symbiotic relationship between social media presence and brand success. High-profile attendees such as Wang Yibo (王一博) at Loewe’s show drove immense online engagement. On WeChat, Wang’s index surpassed that of Paris Fashion Week itself. On March 10, Wang generated over 280 million WeChat searches, surpassing Paris Fashion Week’s 270 million. Even more striking were the Weibo statistics: 810 million mentions for Wang compared to 570 million for the entire fashion event, quantifiably demonstrating the exceptional influence of Chinese celebrities in global fashion discourse. Luxury houses recognised and deployed this digital momentum. Blackpink’s Lisa attended Louis Vuitton, propelling the hashtag “LV Fall 2025 show” (#LV秋冬25女装秀#) to 709,000 discussions and 33 million views. Similarly, Taiwanese actress Shu Qi captured attention at the Tom Ford showcase, reinforcing the growing prominence of Chinese-speaking stars in Western fashion circuits. China’s multidimensional fashion power play China’s presence at Paris Fashion Week was multifaceted — pioneering in design, dominant in digital influence, and strategic in business expansion. The fusion of heritage with avant-garde experimentation, the rise of powerful Chinese KOLs, and the calculated expansion of brands like Icicle highlight China’s growing authority in the global fashion ecosystem. As Paris Fashion Week increasingly reflects China’s influence, it’s clear that the mainland is not just participating but actively shaping the future of high fashion.

China’s Paris power play: Designers, KOLs, retail expansion

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Published March 12, 2025

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China’s Paris power play: Designers, KOLs, retail expansion