China doesn’t want vintage, unless it’s Ralph Lauren

What happened The best brands are those that stand the test of time, their products becoming even more coveted as vintage pieces. Ralph Lauren is a leader in this regard, and that secondhand market dominance extends to China, too. A new generation of Chinese collectors is helping revive Ralph Lauren’s fortunes in China. Among them is Shanghai-based collector Xiao Neng, 23, who told Reuters that he has spent at least $1 million building a Ralph Lauren archive over the past four to five years — some of which is intentionally fake (bootleg) items. His collection has grown so large that it now supplies two “Neng Vintage” stores that he operates in downtown Shanghai. For Xiao, Ralph Lauren represents the brand's vision of aspiration and lifestyle which resonates with young Chinese consumers seeking authenticity and cultural identity through clothing. Collectors are embracing vintage Polo pieces for their craftsmanship, heritage and storytelling, as well as the Americana, Ivy League aesthetic that has been trending in recent years. The phenomenon comes as Ralph Lauren outperforms much of the luxury sector in China. The company reported a 50% YoY jump in sales in the market last quarter, even as luxury demand remains uneven amid weak consumer confidence and a prolonged property downturn. Executives have attributed the momentum to years of investment in brand positioning and local relevance rather than a temporary rebound. Collectors such as Xiao suggest that Ralph Lauren’s appeal in China is increasingly being driven by community, vintage culture and emotional connection — all qualities that can endure beyond the luxury market's cyclical swings. The Jing Take Ralph Lauren’s secondhand market attention in China points to a change in what younger luxury consumers value. Instead of focusing solely on new-season collections, many Gen Z shoppers are turning to vintage Polo for its heritage, and the cultural stories behind its most iconic collections. Furthermore, the brand has always been one that accidentally fell into the streetwear realm through hip-hop music — in short, it’s a brand with a reputation that has been shaped by its organic communities for a long time. Social media has accelerated the label’s vintage clout in China. On Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote), hashtags associated with Ralph Lauren’s ecosystem point to the appeal: #AmericanCampus has attracted more than 37 million views, referencing Ivy League style, and #RalphLaurenVintage has generated 2.5 million views. The popularity of the #OldMoney aesthetic (94.6 million impressions) has further elevated Polo’s Ivy League-inspired wardrobe, positioning vintage rugby shirts, Oxford button-downs and Polo Bear sweaters as symbols of understated taste rather than conspicuous consumption. Collectors are increasingly seeking archival collections including Snow Beach, Stadium ‘92, CP-93, Double RL and Native-inspired knitwear — pieces that are difficult to replicate through contemporary releases. The result has been the emergence of a dedicated resale ecosystem, with vintage boutiques in Shanghai and Beijing alongside active communities on Xiaohongshu, Douyin, WeChat and Xianyu. As luxury spending becomes more selective, Ralph Lauren’s greatest advantage continues to be its positioning in the global secondhand market. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

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China doesn’t want vintage, unless it’s Ralph Lauren

How Bottega Veneta weaved China’s forever it bag