Why ‘tenniscore’ is here to stay in China

Tenniscore is here to stay. Outlasting its internet-driven fashion peers, such as ‘grandpacore’ and ‘Barbiecore,’ the TikTok micro-trend has aced its way into the mainstream – both globally and across China. Though said to have originated in the late 1980s, the trend resurged with Miu Miu's Fall/Winter 2022 collection, comprising micro-mini pleated skirts and cropped polo tops. It grew steadily until March this year, when influencer analytics platform WeArisma recorded a surge in popularity, thanks to “cultural moments and brand endorsements that have been widely shared and discussed on social media platforms.” In May, WeArisma also recorded that global social media influencers and celebrities collectively posted over 4,500 tennis fashion-related posts, an 18% YoY increase. #Tenniscore has amassed over 6.5 million views on TikTok and some 4.8 million on Xiaohongshu. China’s tennis boom Tenniscore’s rise to prominence in China owes much to increasing local interest in the sport, fueled by significant government investment and the rise of local athletic stars. According to the World Tennis Survey Report by the International Tennis Federation, China accounted for 22.9% of the world’s tennis players in 2021. Athletes, including Grand Slam finalist Zheng Qinwen, are also bringing China’s growing influence in the sport to the spotlight. Tennis-related events have proliferated across the country post-Covid 19. The Rolex Shanghai Masters returned in October last year, while the ATP Tour recently expanded to Chengdu and Zhuhai, alongside the China Open in Beijing. Shinai Sports also renewed its exclusive digital broadcast rights for Wimbledon last year for both 2023 and 2024. Yi Guo, a Shanghai-based consultant, founder of Yi Collection, and former style editor at Vogue China, as well as an avid recreational tennis player, believes that China’s current fitness fever is also fueling the mainland’s ‘tenniscore’ boom. “A lot of people got into tennis over Covid, something that is very apparent on social media,” Guo says. “[In China,] there’s an overall emphasis on health as a priority. We’re seeing this as the [fitness] trend moves from athleisure to tennis.” Outdoor sports participation in China has grown over 28% in the last two years, outlines Kung Fu Data, This includes among the country’s older generations, who are investing more in their health. According to a recent Mckinsey report, 63% of baby boomers in China intend to spend more on fitness in the near future, a significantly higher percentage than in other emerging markets like India, where only 4 percent of the same cohort plans to do so. Pop culture plays its part Off court, other global cultural factors are at play. The international release of Luca Guadagnino’s Challengers in April, starring celebrity hotshot Zendaya, for example, has helped maintain momentum. The film’s press junket, which saw Zendaya and stylist Law Roach serve up tennis-inspired looks on the carpet, further fed ‘tenniscore’ chatter online. According to data provided by marketing platform Launchmetrics, the Challengers press tour was so impactful that the trend began gaining traction alongside its promotional run at the end of March. In April, the ‘tenniscore’ keyword generated over $10.8 million in MIV (media impact value), up 460% month on month. In terms of placements (Social media posts, media articles, or blog posts which mention the keyword/brand), ‘tenniscore’ grew by 527% in April when compared to March. Netflix’s Break Point, a two-season documentary spotlighting the world’s top tennis players, has also brought the sport to the forefront of popular culture, introducing both fans and the uninitiated to the next generation of stars. In the money This widespread revival of tennis-related commentary is proving lucrative for luxury brands. Zendaya’s Loewe tennis ball high heels worn during Challengers’ press run, for example, generated $1.11 million in media impact value, as reported by Launchmetrics. According to the data platform, Loewe’s participation in the ‘tenniscore’ trend has created up to $6 million in media value for the brand. Moreover, after Louis Vuitton announced in June last year that tennis player and 2024 Wimbledon champion Carlos Alcaraz had become the brand ambassador, related social media content generated a cumulative media value of $1.99 million. Other luxury brands are rushing to the court after spying a multi-million dollar retail opportunity. Uniqlo and Jonathan Anderson (Anderson also worked on the costumes for Challengers), launched a tennis-inspired collection in collaboration with sporting legend Roger Federer in May, while sportswear label On Running rode the Challengers hype by enlisting Zendaya as its brand ambassador last month. Then there was Gucci’s tennis-related ad, released in May, featuring world No. 1 player Jannik Sinner carrying the brand’s monogram duffle (the same duffle that broke Wimbledon rules last year). The ad generated $1 million in media impact value (MIV) within two days of its release, per Launchmetrics. Tenniscore’s expansion into Asia has prompted domestic labels to jump on board. South Korean fashion label Hazzys unveiled its new sporting concept, Hazzys Royal Club, during Shanghai Fashion Week in March 2023, coinciding with its SS24 collection inspired by the aesthetic cues of Waspy American sport cliques. Looks included crisp white shorts, colorblock terry headbands, and polo dresses. In June 2023, athleisure label Fila also dropped a tennis collection via a Douyin livestream, alongside actor Zhang Jun Ning (Janine Chang). Lasting impact? Unlike other microtrends, which tend to peak and plummet before brands have had time to effectively execute an idea, the longevity of ‘tenniscore’ has enabled retailers to flesh out strong strategies. But why has the trend demonstrated such durability against a backdrop of fleeting micro-aesthetics? For Guo, tenniscore’s endurance stems from it ticking the boxes of functionality and style. “Personally, I love that it is a melting point of sport and fashion,” she says. Alison Bringé, CMO at Launchmetrics echoes this. “The ‘tenniscore’ trend has persisted in popularity because it aligns perfectly with younger generation preferences,” Bringé adds. “The pandemic played a big role in influencing Gen Z’s style, and so comfort-first brands are increasingly becoming their favorites due to their emphasis on comfort and practicality.” Tenniscore may have managed to transcend the internet’s trend cycle. But with Wimbledon having come to an end last Sunday and Fall season on the horizon, might the aesthetic have peaked? Launchmetrics’ Bringé believes that consumers aren’t ready to call it quits just yet. “Tennis apparel's seasonal relevance and versatility all contribute to its enduring appeal,” she says, “unlike other trends, which are often more distinct and short-lived."

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Why ‘tenniscore’ is here to stay in China