Why JD.com still can’t crack fashion

What happened Uniqlo announced a partnership with JD.com on September 8, marking one of the Beijing-based e-commerce platform’s biggest moves in fashion this year. Shoppers can now search for Uniqlo on JD’s app and access the brand’s full product line directly via a dedicated mini program. The tie-up underscores Uniqlo’s continued bet on China’s online retail market and reaffirms JD’s ambitions in fashion. Yet, despite JD’s portfolio boasting more than 90% of global luxury names and a roster of international apparel groups, the e-commerce giant has yet to establish a strong foothold in fashion. Uniqlo opened its flagship store on Tmall back in 2009 and remains a mainstay there — highlighting JD’s late arrival in the space. The Jing Take: JD’s platform DNA problem At the core of JD’s struggles is its platform’s DNA. JD Luxury, the company’s dedicated fashion arm, still operates a traditional e-commerce model, falling short on the visual storytelling and aesthetic sensibilities that define today’s fashion industry. Its site design, imagery, and brand environments often lack polish, with some stores even displaying low-resolution visuals. For a sector where image and atmosphere are central, such shortcomings are damaging, deterring the style-conscious consumer JD is trying to court. JD.com has poured significant resources into apparel. In 2024 the e-commerce giant pledged another $140 million to expand the category, aiming to position itself as a hub for coveted fashion. In September that year, JD Fashion began a partnership with the British Fashion Council, becoming the official Asian online retail partner of London Fashion Week. Consumer perception a barrier Despite JD.com’s investment in apparel, public perception remains rooted in its reputation for efficient logistics, authenticity, and a standardized retail experience. The entrenched mindset — JD for electronics, Tmall for fashion — has become the biggest barrier to its transformation. By contrast, Tmall Luxury has mastered the softer dimensions of fashion retail, engaging consumers through experiences rather than transactions. Its activations avoid conventional promotions, instead creating lifestyle-driven touch points designed for social media resonance. This August, for instance, Tmall Luxury opened a French Riviera-inspired “flower café” on Shanghai’s Yanqing Road. Comprising floral installations, coffee drinks, and home décor elements, plus daily giveaways of bouquets and handwritten notes, the pop-up extended its “for love” theme into broader expressions of emotion and connection. Fashion culture vs retail Today, Tmall Luxury counts over 200 businesses, including LVMH, Kering, and Richemont, as partners, and serves as a key launchpad for new collections. For Qixi Festival (Chinese Valentine’s Day), Coach and MCM offered limited-edition gift boxes, personalized services, and one-on-one consultations, while integrating with Taobao’s instant delivery features. In one case, Coach sold more than 8,000 units of its Nolita 19 bag, priced at 958 RMB ($134), via this model. These examples underscore a truth about fashion consumption: it is less about authenticity and speed of delivery than about aesthetic recognition, brand storytelling, and social value. JD’s heavy investment in apparel has yet to pay off because it continues to approach fashion as retail. The heart of fashion, however, lies in culture and identity. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

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Why JD.com still can’t crack fashion