Chiuri leaves Dior: China has thoughts

What happened Maria Grazia Chiuri has officially stepped down as creative director of Dior Women. Following a nine year tenure that has reshaped the house’s commercial and cultural trajectory, the brand confirmed the news on May 29 via official channels, days after Chiuri’s final show — a 2026 Resort collection staged in her native Rome — was widely interpreted to be her farewell. Appointed in 2016, Chiuri was the first woman to helm Dior’s womenswear in the maison’s history. Her legacy is defined by a clear feminist narrative — starting with the now-iconic “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirt from her debut collection, and a successful revitalization of the house’s product lines. Under her leadership, Dior women’s annual revenue surged from 2.2 billion euros ($2.5 billion) in 2017 to 8.7 billion euros ($9.9 billion) in 2024, according to HSBC estimates. She introduced commercially resonant pieces, like the Book Tote, revived Saddle Bag, and emphasized wearable luxury that resonated with modern consumers. At the same time, Chiuri broadened Dior’s cultural identity through global artisanal collaborations and staging shows in symbolic locales — from the Acropolis to Mexico City. While praised for strengthening Dior’s identity with strong feminist storytelling and accessible glamour, Chiuri has faced growing criticism in recent years. Some observers viewed her later collections as overly repetitive and commercially driven, particularly in the realm of couture. In 2022, Chinese netizens called out its Fall 2022 “Jardin d’Hiver” patterns copying traditional Chinese painting styles. The backlash followed an earlier scandal over the alleged plagiarism of Chinese ‘horse face’ skirts. As luxury spending slows globally, Dior has also faced headwinds: LVMH’s fashion and leather goods division saw a 5% organic decline in Q1 2025, hinting at deeper challenges for the brand. Jonathan Anderson, who took over Dior Men’s from Kim Jones in April 2025, is widely expected to assume leadership of womenswear as well — consolidating the brand’s aesthetics and divisions under one creative direction. Known for his experimental, intellectual approach at JW Anderson and Loewe, Anderson represents a bold pivot that could reinvigorate the house. Speculation is also swirling around Chiuri’s future. Her warm farewell message gave little away, but the presence of Fendi family members at her final show has sparked rumours of a potential move to the LVMH-owned Roman maison, which remains without a permanent womenswear designer. The Jing Take Chiuri’s departure marks the end of an era not only for Dior but for the luxury industry’s golden growth decade. Her tenure exemplified how clear values, strong product strategy, and cultural resonance can coexist — and generate extraordinary commercial results. On Chinese social media, her exit sparked a mix of nostalgia, debate, and anticipation. Weibo user CoverPrince (@封面小王), wrote: “It’s settled. After nearly a decade, Maria is officially leaving Dior. Though often criticized for her designs, she was undeniably the architect of Dior’s golden era of growth. Sales jumped nearly fourfold during her tenure!” Another user, Liuhiongcheng (@柳红尘_), asked, “If sales rose that much, why is she leaving?” Speculation around her successor is equally heated. “Everyone already knows who the next one will be,” added @CoverPrince, noting “Maria reportedly negotiated with Fendi — maybe we will soon see her heading home.” User @Banbuyaomai (@半部麦遥) remarked, “Her designs were very wearable — unlike Galliano’s overly eccentric ones. Most wealthy women probably preferred hers.” For others, Chiuri’s ability to make luxury accessible was key. “When the economy was good, even us ordinary people could afford a few designer pieces” wrote Foppishgentlemen (@纨绔绅士). “If you’re spending tens of thousands, you want to wear it more than once. Maria understood this perfectly. No wonder sales were strong.” Still, not everyone was sad to see her go. “Finally!” exclaimed Eliospeach (@Elio的桃桃). As Dior enters a new chapter, the incoming creative director will face the dual challenge of maintaining commercial momentum while reviving excitement among weary consumers. With both Dior and Chanel undergoing generational handovers — Jonathan Anderson and Matthieu Blazy now expected to lead the charge — the stage is set for a new wave of fashion reinvention. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

Chiuri leaves Dior: China has thoughts

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Published May 30, 2025

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Chiuri leaves Dior: China has thoughts