Valentino’s bold rebirth under Alessandro Michele

After parting ways with Gucci, Alessandro Michele’s debut as Valentino creative director has been one of the most anticipated moments of this fashion season. Now that the show has concluded, it’s time to reflect on Michele’s transformative vision for the brand. In this latest partnership feature, Jing Daily explores how Valentino is evolving under the guidance of the renowned fashion designer. What strategies will the brand employ to enhance its market presence and strengthen its cultural connections with consumers during this pivotal phase? A new maximalist fantasy Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled “Pavillon des Folies,” was unveiled at the Maison du Judo in Paris on September 29. In the dimly lit, almost haunting atmosphere of the building’s basement, sofas, tables, and harps were draped in flowing white cloth, evoking a deserted château. The runway, transformed into a fractured mirror, embodied a captivating yet fragile aesthetic, echoing the interplay of piano notes and shattering sounds featured in Valentino’s teaser video. Michele used this setting to explore a central theme of the collection: What defines beauty? “Beauty lulls fragility and cicatrizes the disorder of the real,” the designer stated in the show notes. The collection, with its 85 looks, was a continuation of Michele’s signature lavish, vintage-inspired style. Yet, beneath the whimsical maximalism, Valentino’s iconic design elements – like bows, polka dots, ruffles, and botanical motifs – featured prominently. These elements, which have long been integral to Valentino’s DNA, were reimagined with Michele’s contemporary twist. For instance, the black-and-white heart-shaped dress that opened the show was a revival of a couture piece from the 1990s, originally designed by Valentino Garavani himself. In this reinterpretation, Michele retained the delicate bow details that often graced Garavani’s couture pieces, while introducing sleeker, more modern cuts. This is just one example of how Michele balanced his distinctive design language with Valentino’s storied heritage. Notably, while Michele is known for loose, voluminous silhouettes, this collection showcased more tailored, fitted looks, particularly in the form of cropped blazers, signaling a clear homage to the brand’s elegance. Michele has managed to strike a harmonious balance between Valentino’s timeless sophistication and his own maximalist flair. Earlier this year, when unveiling the pre-Spring 2025 collection, Michele remarked, “Valentino was never a minimalist, rather a maximalist.” Indeed, Valentino’s extensive fashion archives provided rich material for Michele to mine, making his work a dialogue between the brand’s history and his own unique artistic vision. His penchant for maximalism, along with his homage to the house legacy, shines through in Valentino’s newly released “Avant les Débuts” campaign, which showcases the pre-Spring 2025 collection launched in June. “I tried to reimagine maison Valentino, starting from the mythical Mignanelli Palace, the historical headquarters of the brand,” Michele said. Unveiling Michele’s new world Though Michele’s debut at Valentino took place in Paris, it felt closer to home for Chinese consumers thanks to the brand’s comprehensive media strategy. From pre-show teasers to post-show discussions, Valentino ensured that Michele’s first show for the brand was widely accessible and heavily discussed in China. How did Valentino generate such buzz and engage consumers across different platforms? As a star designer, Michele captured the hearts of fashion devotees long before his debut at Valentino, having left a lasting visual imprint on Chinese consumers with his signature retro-glam aesthetic during his tenure at Gucci. His highly anticipated debut at Valentino was already generating significant buzz well before the show. Fashion enthusiasts eagerly awaited the creative sparks that would fly from Michele’s collision with his new brand, making it one of the most talked-about events in the fashion calendar. Valentino capitalized on this, maximizing the event’s social media impact to amplify its reach. On the night of the show, Valentino livestreamed the event across multiple platforms, including WeChat Channels, Weibo, Xiaohongshu, Tmall, and its official website. This full-spectrum approach maximized the show’s reach, enabling consumers to feel a sense of participation despite the geographical distance. The livestream drew over 19 million viewers in China during the event. Valentino’s China team also maintained momentum post-show, sharing behind-the-scenes footage and exclusive set details, alongside deeper discussions around the collection’s theme of “beauty.” By doing so, the brand allowed its audience to further explore the concepts behind the show, creating a more immersive, reflective experience. Within days, hashtags like #ValentinoMicheleShow, #PavillonDesFolies, and #ValentinoSS25 racked up nearly a million views on Xiaohongshu. In addition, Valentino partnered with Vogue China to host the “Vogue Celebrates” gala, a star-studded event where guests from around the globe gathered to discuss fashion, music, and art, further amplifying the show’s reach and cultural resonance. Through a well-calibrated blend of media engagement and celebrity influence, Valentino was able to expand its visibility post-show and sustain consumer interest. Under Valentino’s localized marketing strategy, Michele’s new visual direction for the brand has ignited widespread discussion among Chinese consumers. His bold maximalist aesthetic stands in stark contrast to the quiet luxury trend that has prevailed in recent years, sparking a wave of excitement. Many netizens have voiced their approval of his signature glamorous, vintage-inspired designs, with comments like “The new designer’s aesthetic is on point” and “Michele is a genius!” capturing the enthusiasm around his debut. China’s growing influence on Valentino China’s importance to Valentino cannot be overstated, and Michele’s debut has only further cemented the brand’s connection with consumers in the market. Valentino’s ability to create cultural resonance through localized marketing has played a pivotal role in its success. The brand’s thoughtful approach – embodied in its partnership with high-profile Chinese celebrities – has paid off. On November 24 last year, Valentino announced actress Yang Zi as its newest ambassador, following in the footsteps of fellow star Guan Xiaotong. Together, their combined Weibo following of nearly 100 million has given the brand unparalleled visibility among local consumers. Yang’s post about attending the Valentino show in Paris, for example, garnered over 1 million likes on Weibo, while Xiaohongshu topics like #YangZiLook and #GuanXiaotongLook have attracted over 110 million and 160 million views, respectively. The brand’s latest show saw Yang, Guan, Hong Kong singer and actress Sammi Cheng, and several other high-profile Chinese celebrities like actors Zhang Wanyi and Liao Fan attend, sparking lively discussions across Chinese social media. Fans were eager to replicate their favorite looks, and Xiaohongshu was soon flooded with users showcasing their purchases of Yang-inspired outfits, driving organic traffic and sales for the brand. Looking at the bigger picture, Asia-Pacific has emerged as a crucial region for Valentino. In its 2023 annual report, released in April, Valentino highlighted the region’s positive performance, particularly in China and Japan, as key drivers of growth amid challenging conditions in Europe. Strengthening its strategic footprint in China will be vital for the brand’s future trajectory. Valentino Chairman Rachid Mohamed Rachid boldly predicted in a recent media interview that the era of “quiet luxury” is fading, and consumers are once again craving bold, statement-making designs. The appointment of Michele as creative director marks the beginning of this new chapter for Valentino. Under his leadership at Gucci, sales nearly tripled between 2015 and 2019. Will he replicate that success at Valentino and steer the brand into its next phase of growth? Michele’s debut certainly signals a promising start.

Valentino’s bold rebirth under Alessandro Michele

On this page

Published October 09, 2024

Sectors

Insights

Company

Valentino’s bold rebirth under Alessandro Michele