The Used’s Kouhey Ishii on Tokyo, Chrome Hearts, and luxury resale

Kouhey Ishii has spent more than a decade authenticating, buying, and selling Chrome Hearts in Tokyo, now out of The Used — two Harajuku boutiques whose walls carry signatures from musician Steve Lacy, producer F1lthy, and stylist Bloody Osiris. Since entering luxury resale in 2013, he has watched the Hollywood-born accessories and lifestyle brand move through distinct phases of popularity in Japan, from its entrenchment in the country’s fashion subcultures to the current wave of demand driven by K-pop and Gen Z consumers. Across its apparel, jewelry, and leather goods, Chrome Hearts retains an “if you know, you know” quality, even as the company has grown into a global luxury business with dozens of stores and nearly four decades of history. Founded in 1988 by leather dealer Richard Stark, manufacturer John Bowman, and master silversmith Leonard Kamhout, the brand began as a leather goods operation specializing in jackets, motorcycle accessories, and belts. The brand’s early public image took shape through organic celebrity adoption in the rock world. Some of the most recognizable figures in rock ’n’ roll — from Steve Jones of the Sex Pistols to members of Guns N’ Roses, Mötley Crüe, and Aerosmith — became closely associated with Chrome Hearts, decades before influencer marketing formalized the practice. Within Japan’s luxury fashion scene, Chrome Hearts has developed a particularly strong resale ecosystem centered on rarity, authenticity, and archival value. Purchasing Chrome Hearts at retail can carry an almost Hermès-level barrier to entry: many locations are reported to operate primarily by appointment, silver jewelry has become less consistently available in stores, and some of the most sought-after pieces rarely reach the sales floor. At the same time, the company has expanded deeper into apparel, producing everything from children’s clothing to heavily embellished denim retailing for more than $10,000. In neighborhoods like Harajuku, resale stores specializing in Chrome Hearts operate as informal archives and cultural hubs for collectors. Among the most recognized of these stores is The Used. Ishii serves as its lead authenticator, primary buyer, and manager — a role that combines archival fashion knowledge, resale economics, and trend forecasting. He develops sourcing channels while tracking the shifts in taste that shape Chrome Hearts’ market in Japan. Jing Daily: What was your introduction to Chrome Hearts? Kouhey Ishii: It came through my older sister’s boyfriend. He was very passionate about jewelry and frequently bought Chrome Hearts pieces. That was how I first became aware of the brand. Interestingly, that same person is now my boss. JD: What was Japan’s fashion scene like when you started working in luxury resale and how is it different today? KI: I entered this industry in 2013. At that time, the K-pop group Bigbang was extremely influential in Japan, and many of the members were wearing Chrome Hearts. Their popularity helped spark what I would consider the second major Chrome Hearts boom in Japan. (The first boom occurred around the early 2000s.) In terms of Chrome Hearts specifically, both the pricing and the items that were considered popular were very different from today. Back then, larger and more substantial pieces were in fashion, whereas today smaller and more understated items are more popular. That said, the fundamental mechanism behind trends has not changed much. Then, as now, trends were largely driven by celebrities and artists wearing the brand. So in a broader sense, I do not think the fashion scene itself has changed dramatically. JD: Is Japan’s resale culture unique, and if so, in what ways? KI: In Japan, there is a word: “mottainai.” It expresses the idea that it is wasteful to throw away something that is still usable, and that objects should be cherished and used for a long time. I believe this mindset is one reason why secondhand goods in Japan are often kept in exceptionally good condition. More broadly, I think Japan has a cultural attitude — less tied to any specific religion and more to a general worldview — that emphasizes respect for objects and long-term use. This way of thinking aligns very naturally with resale culture. JD: What trends are you noticing in 2026 — both in what people buy and in who is buying? KI: Recent trends include denim pieces with leather cross patches, as well as smaller pendants and rings. I believe the current global Chrome Hearts trend began around 2020. Before the Covid-19 pandemic, the majority of Chrome Hearts customers were from Asia. Today, however, it feels as though people from all over the world are seeking out the brand. One of Chrome Hearts’ greatest strengths is its broad appeal across different price points. Some customers begin with silver jewelry, while high-net-worth collectors purchase 22-karat gold pieces set with diamonds and other precious stones. Although Chrome Hearts originated from biker culture, its designs work equally well with streetwear, casual clothing, and even formal attire. That versatility is one of the brand’s most remarkable qualities. JD: Where do these trends originate? KI: I believe most trends begin when influential celebrities and public figures start wearing certain pieces. As interest builds and reaches a certain level, counterfeit products tend to flood the market. Once fake items become widespread, many affluent customers and trendsetters lose interest, and the trend gradually cools down. This cycle has repeated itself many times. JD: How do they differ from Chrome Hearts trends over the past few years? KI: Over the past three years, there have not been many dramatic changes apart from substantial price increases. What has changed is that more secondhand stores have started carrying Chrome Hearts, while counterfeit manufacturers have significantly improved the quality of their replicas. The quality of fake products continues to improve every year, and the very best counterfeits are now approximately 99% identical to authentic pieces in terms of appearance. JD: Why do you think Chrome Hearts has the staying power it does? KI: Chrome Hearts’ longevity is the result of many factors working together. These include its timeless design language, strong cultural roots, Richard Stark’s business strategy, exceptional resale value, the immersive world the brand has created, and the fact that Chrome Hearts has become virtually synonymous with silver jewelry. Together, these elements have made Chrome Hearts a truly one-of-a-kind brand. JD: How is the brand perceived among Japanese Gen Z? KI: Chrome Hearts is seen as an aspirational brand among Japanese Gen Z. Hip-hop has become very popular in Japan, and many Japanese rappers prominently wear and showcase Chrome Hearts. At the same time, the brand is expensive and often out of reach for younger people. As a result, some wear counterfeit products, while others save diligently to purchase authentic pieces. JD: What sets Chrome Hearts apart from other luxury brands? KI: It depends on which luxury brands you are comparing it to, but the biggest differentiator is its versatility. As mentioned earlier, Chrome Hearts can be worn with almost any style of clothing. Karl Lagerfeld wore it with suits and tailored jackets, Duff McKagan incorporated it into rock fashion, and artists such as Drake, Travis Scott, and Playboi Carti use it as part of their personal style. The fact that Chrome Hearts transcends genres and allows people to express their individuality is, in my view, one of the brand's greatest distinctions. JD: What does the future of Chrome Hearts look like over the next 10 to 15 years? KI: This year marks my 14th year in this industry, and even 14 years ago I never imagined Chrome Hearts would reach its current level of popularity and influence. It is impossible to predict exactly where the brand will be in 10 to 15 years. However, I believe trends always return — much like the resurgence of Y2K fashion. Even if Chrome Hearts experiences a period where the trend fades, I am confident it will rise again through a new cultural wave. Chrome Hearts is a truly unique brand.

The Used’s Kouhey Ishii on Tokyo, Chrome Hearts, and luxury resale

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The Used’s Kouhey Ishii on Tokyo, Chrome Hearts, and luxury resale

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