Shein’s BHV partnership sparks political and industry backlash

What happened BHV Marais’ partnership with Chinese ultra-fast-fashion giant Shein has triggered a backlash across France’s fashion ecosystem. The Paris department store, struggling under more than 7 million euros ($8.2 million) in unpaid invoices and dwindling brand confidence, will host Shein across 1,000 sqm of BHV’s sixth floor this November in a bid to boost traffic and cash flow. But the move has deepened the crisis. Heritage brands such as Le Slip Français, Aime, and Maison Lejaby have pulled out, condemning both BHV’s financial management and its alignment with a brand widely accused of labor exploitation and greenwashing. France’s Banque des Territoires has reportedly withdrawn from financing the store’s acquisition by Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), citing the partnership’s conflict with its sustainability principles. Politicians and industry leaders — including Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo — have condemned the tie-up, while Parliament prepares to vote on a bill targeting ultra-fast fashion with new taxes and advertising restrictions. The Jing Take: Parisian department store under pressure BHV’s partnership with Shein is not just a financial maneuver — it’s an existential signal. The 169-year-old department store’s reliance on a mass-market, algorithm-driven platform underscores the collapse of a once-dominant retail model. For decades, department stores like BHV, Printemps, and Galeries Lafayette served as cultural intermediaries — curating taste, experience, and aspiration. That role has since been overtaken by experiential, concept-driven players like Dover Street Market and Kith, as well as conglomerate-owned formats such as Haus Nowhere, which unite multiple labels under cohesive creative direction. Can Shein x BHV partnership claim legitimacy? The partnership also reveals cracks in Shein’s globalization playbook. Despite a 19% revenue increase to around $38 billion in 2024, Shein’s net profit reportedly fell by over a third to $1 billion, as rising logistics, compliance, and marketing costs erode margins. Regulatory scrutiny is intensifying: the EU has flagged Shein for “dark patterns” and misleading sustainability claims, while the U.S. is reconsidering tax loopholes that once made Shein’s micro-shipping model viable. Repeated IPO delays in London and Hong Kong underscore investor skepticism about Shein’s governance and long-term profitability. Attempts to gain legitimacy through Western partnerships — like this one with BHV — continue to backfire, reinforcing perceptions of opportunism rather than reform. Shein’s retail push across France and Europe comes amid mounting regulatory headwinds and growing consumer fatigue with fast fashion. Rather than signaling dominance, its pivot to physical stores reflects a search for credibility in markets where digital dominance alone no longer guarantees trust. In the end, both Shein and BHV are chasing legitimacy through each other. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

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Shein’s BHV partnership sparks political and industry backlash