Old money, new connection: Zegna’s emotional case for endurance in China

Under the dome of the historical Palazzo del Ghiaccio, Zegna unveiled the Milan Fashion Week with an intimate winter show in the quiet wintry season. For the 2026 Winter collection of the century-old menswear maison, veteran artistic director Alessandro Sartori staged a show where heirloom garments were reimagined with modern innovation under the theme "A Family Closet." Besides sartorial rigor, a hallmark of the brand, and the measured presentation of the Zegna family archive, another headline-grabbing moment was Zegna’s appointment of Chinese actor William Chan as its new global ambassador following his runway debut William’s surprise appearance was more than a celebrity tie-in but a calculated step which could place Zegna at the cultural intersection of heritage and contemporary relevance in China. Unconventional, thoughtful, and restrained all at once, this move illustrates how the legacy fashion house is doubling down on this significant market through creating emotional connection without compromising its classic aesthetics amid a cooling luxury market. An artistic encounter Chan’s catwalk debut marked him as the first Asian celebrity to walk for Zegna and sealed an eight-year-long collaboration. For a long time, Zegna has identified a shared stylistic language in William: composed, confident, and understated. Furthermore, his recent transition to fatherhood echoed the theme of the winter 2026 collection by the maison, which drew on the idea of the family wardrobe as “a place where things worth remembering are kept.” More recently, the singer and actor William has come into broader public view with a string of hit television series including Love’s Ambition, where his on-screen father-son dynamic with seasoned actor Xu Yajun drew strong viewer engagement. Capitalizing on this popularity, Zegna made a thoughtfully conceived “sequel.” While Chan was in Milan, the brand released what appeared to be a scene from a potential second season, which, however, was never been officially confirmed by any party. In this clip, William and Xu portrayed another intimate father-son moment by the symbolic passing of a suit jacket with an interior label embroidered with the phrase “Lead by Legacy.” It should be noted that this 6-second video clip was not released via Zegna’s official channels, but emerged in fragmented snippets on Weibo and Xiaohongshu (RedNote). The relevant hashtag, William Chan Shooting Love’s ambition S2, rocketed to Weibo’s trending list and triggered widespread conversations. While both William and Xu are seen wearing Zegna looks adorned with the brand’s signature Triple Stitch™ detailing in the footage, few viewers made the connection to Zegna. In this way, Zegna has transcended conventional straightforward advertising, instead weaving itself into a broader Chinese cultural narrative — one centered on family, heritage and continuity. Only after speculation reached a peak did Zegna release the film, Lead by Legacy, revealing the footage as its official campaign and an extension of its winter 2026 fashion show concept — A Family Closet. This smart and pioneering strategy reflects a growing sophistication in Zegna’s engagement with Chinese audiences: not by interrupting culture, but by temporarily disappearing into it. The old money aesthetic’s continued appeal to Chinese luxury consumers Quiet luxury, or the old money aesthetic, has steadily taken root across both high fashion and daily wear since the late 2010s given global economic uncertainty as well as the influence of popular television series and social media. In China, this sleek, low-key aesthetic has found particularly fertile ground for its rational and refined sensibility, while ostentatious displays of wealth tapered off in an economy that entered a more mature phase following the rapid expansion of the 1990s and 2000s. It's fair to say that Zegna is one of the archetypes of the old money aesthetic, given its superior fabrics, cultivated subtlety, and tailored silhouettes. And it is also this century-old legacy that helps it win over affluent, sophisticated professionals and industry leaders since its entry into the Chinese market over three decades ago. When maximalism circled back last year, a plethora of high fashion houses began introducing or reintroducing vibrant colors, exuberant styles, and exaggerated silhouettes to cater to the change in consumer preferences. But Zegna stayed true to its classy designs that are both functional and collectible, underscoring its inherited value of timelessness over fleeting trends. For upper-middle-class Chinese male consumers who have developed a penchant for subtle refinement over showy wealth, its understanding of how to dress status with an elegant collection from earthy-toned Trofeo wool to deep brown Herringbone is key for the world's second largest luxury market. When William Chan appeared at the show in a black cashmere coat layered over a peak lapel suit, he was widely noted on Chinese social media for “bringing an everyday old money aesthetic ease to the runway.” Family, heritage, emotional bond: a storytelling thread Emotion is playing an increasing role in purchase decision making, a trend that is particularly pronounced in China. According to a report released by iiMedia, a Chinese market research firm, China's emotional economy reached a market size of 2.3 trillion RMB ($140 billion) in 2024 and is expected to double by 2029. EY, a UK-based global professional services firm, reported in its 2025 Luxury Client Index that 97% of Chinese luxury consumers express a likelihood to purchase or repurchase from brands that offer experiences. As Zegna’s 2026 Winter fashion show unfolded in a solemn, intimate setting, carpeted in muted shades interspersed with spots of bright red and punctuated by episodes of gentle music, it turned the runway into home. As models and global ambassadors made turns in looks drawn from generational family wardrobes, the show spoke directly to Chinese audiences, for whom family and home are a perpetual cultural anchor. By placing “family” as the narrative thread of both its latest collection and elevated collaboration with William as well as the “sequel” to Love’s Ambition, Zegna made a thoughtful attempt to engage with parenthood and family bonds. In opening a mono-brand store in Beijing in 1991, Zegna became the first luxury menswear brand to the China market. At a time long before China became even a lightweight luxury market, it already established a significant first-mover advantage. Now, Zegna crafted a trilogy strategy from social creators’ collaborations, Tencent fashion partnerships, to placements in traditional media outlets, indicating its deep understanding of today’s Chinese audiences. As emotional value is changing China’s consumer landscape, Zegna has seized the opportunity to anchor its messaging in what’s central to Chinese culture and identity — heritage, continuity, and memory. Moreover, at a time when storytelling has become a critical differentiator across the luxury sector, the brand’s consistency in the China narrative reflects not only its cultural sensitivity but also a respect for its own heritage, one rooted in the idea of family. When Lead by Legacy traces how a personal journey unfolds alongside family legacy, it echoes the idea of “A Family Closet” where generations are connected through a shared set of tested values. The latest campaign for its China market, from William's catwalk debut and appointment to the family-centered short film, has combined emotionally grounded narratives with innovative market strategies. It could serve a pertinent case study of how a legacy brand adapts to a shifting luxury market and builds long-term brand equity in a country with the largest addressable luxury population.

Sectors

Insights

Company

Old money, new connection: Zegna’s emotional case for endurance in China