Milan Fashion Week: Can Gucci, Versace stage a comeback in China?

As Milan Fashion Week (MFW) wrapped up, one question lingered: Can Kering stage a comeback? With Gucci and Bottega Veneta both unveiling collections under new creative directors, the French group tried to reset its narrative after years of sluggish growth. The results suggest early momentum, particularly in Asia, but the competitive landscape has rarely looked tougher. held firm as one of China’s most-watched brands. For LVMH, it was a season of balancing heritage celebrations with mounting scrutiny. And independent players like Diesel and Moschino continue to rewire what a fashion show can be. More than ever, Milan’s collections were staged not only for editors in the front row, but also for digital audiences thousands of miles away: From Weibo hashtags crossing 130 million views to Xiaohongshu discussions of celebrity looks. Gucci: Demna’s cinematic gamble Gucci’s Spring 2026 debut under Demna was nothing short of cinematic. The house unveiled Gucci The Tiger, a short film co-directed by Spike Jonze, which set the tone for a runway that was equal parts heritage homage and cultural spectacle. The collection reworked house codes — the bamboo handle bag, horsebit detailing, Tom Ford–era sensual tailoring — into a story that merged drama with irreverence. The front row was equally cinematic. Chinese A-listers Ni Ni, Song Weilong, and model He Cong joined global stars, while BTS’ Jin appeared on the runway, setting Weibo ablaze. The hashtag “GucciLaFamiglia” surged past 130 million views, making Gucci the uncontested digital winner of Milan Fashion Week. Commercially, Gucci is betting on scarcity and urgency. The Spring 2026 collection is being stocked in stores as a limited release between September 25 and October 12, 2025, available in China exclusively at Beijing SKP and Shanghai Plaza 66 boutiques. Market reaction was immediate: Pieces like the pearl-white satin shirt, oversized red coat, monogrammed baguette bag, and crystal-embroidered floral necklace sparked rush purchases for their craftsmanship and retro-modern appeal. For Kering, Gucci’s performance matters most. Bottega Veneta: Craft meets everyday Louise Trotter’s debut at Bottega Veneta was more traditional but no less impactful. Her collection modernized the house’s artisanal codes without diluting its identity. The intrecciato weave appeared in unexpected contexts — from snakeskin-pattern coats to fiberglass knits in saturated tones of orange, red, and silver-blue. Feather-trimmed robes and fringed dresses reinforced her emphasis on movement and tactility. Asian stars filled the front row: BTS’s RM (Kim Nam-joon) in oversized tailoring, Michelle Yeoh in emerald silk, and Stray Kids’ I.N, Thai actor Dew, Chinese ambassador Guo Jingjing in navy knit and red leather, and Chinese actress Zhu Zhu in a total black look. More than 10 Chinese models walked, further underlining the brand’s East Asia strategy. The numbers were strong: The livestream drew 24.4 million views on Weibo, while the hashtag “BV2026SpringSummerShow” reached 80 million views. Weibo netizens praised Trotter for preserving Bottega’s “quiet luxury” codes while adding expressive twists. For Kering, it was a reassuring signal that Bottega remains a growth anchor as Gucci undergoes a transition. Prada amplifies Weibo reach through star power At Prada’s Fondazione headquarters, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons delivered a collection titled “Body of Composition.” It dissected the uniform — from office wear to school codes — and rebuilt it into hybrid silhouettes. Cocktail dresses were layered with leather jackets, chiffon panels floated beneath rigid suiting, and colors clashed: orange and lemon yellow against muted greys. Chinese stars were central. Actor Li Xian and actress Guan Xiaotong occupied prime front-row seats, amplifying visibility across Weibo and Xiaohongshu. The livestream generated 42.4 million views, keeping Prada one of the top three most-watched Milan brands in China. Strategically, Prada’s edge lies in balancing cerebral fashion with broad resonance. The brand continues to dominate among China’s Gen Z luxury buyers, who view Prada as both artistic and accessible. Ferragamo stays true to its DNA Maximilian Davis continued his redefinition of Ferragamo with sleek tailoring, crimson-and-sand palettes, and subtle nods to 1920s Florence. The result was directional but wearable, with accessories designed for commercial scalability. The brand livestreamed the show not only on its website but also through Tmall Luxury Pavilion, emphasizing its digital-first China strategy. Despite rumors of a potential takeover, denied by the founding family, Ferragamo’s trajectory under Davis remains steady. In China, where younger consumers crave both design edge and historical credibility, Ferragamo has regained relevance without abandoning heritage. Max Mara: Modern rococo Max Mara leaned into sculpture and femininity with its Rococo Modern collection. Voluminous skirts, pastel tailoring, and dramatic coats created a blend of romance and pragmatism. Olympic champion Chen Meng and singer Tia Ray sat front row, reinforcing the house’s appeal to established Chinese consumers who favor sophistication over experimentation. While Weibo traction was lower than other major luxury houses, sentiment skewed positive, with netizens praising Max Mara’s “dependability.” Strategically, the brand continues to prioritize consistency and loyalty over dramatic reinvention. It’s a formula that resonates with an affluent, slightly more mature female demographic in China. Fendi: A centenary in transition Fendi celebrated its 100th anniversary with Silvia Venturini Fendi at the helm, as the search for Kim Jones’ successor continues. The show mixed past and present: bubblegum pinks, coral shades, perforated leathers, and a pixel-inspired collaboration with designer Marc Newson. The Peekaboo bag appeared luxuriously decorated inside as well as out, a play on discreet luxury. Front-row attendance was anchored by Chinese stars Tang Yan and Tan Jianci. On Weibo, the hashtag “Fendi2026MenAndWomenswearShow” drew 140 million views, underscoring the brand’s visibility despite creative uncertainty. The centenary highlighted both Fendi’s enduring cultural capital and the urgency of appointing a new creative lead to carry it forward. Versace: After being acquired by Prada Group This season was Versace’s first without family leadership. Dario Vitale, formerly of Miu Miu, unveiled his debut under Prada Group’s ownership. The collection softened Gianni Versace’s hyper-sexual signatures into ambiguous, wearable sensuality: incomplete lines, muted draping, and deliberately “unfinished” hems. For a house synonymous with glamour, this restraint was risky. Some online users questioned whether Versace can maintain its erotic allure without exaggeration. But the new approach aligns with Prada Group’s vision to position Versace as a third growth engine alongside Prada and Miu Miu. With sales declining 15% in late 2024, Prada’s 1.25 billion euros ($1.38 billion) acquisition in April was a bold gamble. Vitale’s reinterpretation may not have dominated Milan chatter, but it gave Versace a fresh canvas. Chinese visibility was amplified by Chinese idols Ju Jingyi and Ding Yuxi, with the hashtag “Versace 2026 Spring Summer Collection” garnering 3.2 million views. Diesel on a mission to democratize fashion Glenn Martens transformed Diesel into a citywide event with an “Egg Hunt” across Milan, where transparent capsules containing show invitations were hidden in public spaces. The runway itself showcased recycled fabrics, distressed denim, and oversized tailoring, in line with Martens’ gritty futurism. Chinese singer Tia Ray and actress Flora Dai delivered local traction, while Weibo posts about the hunt trended briefly. For younger audiences, Diesel positioned itself as more cultural happening than luxury label. The approach signals a different playbook: Democratization, interactivity, and mass participation rather than exclusivity. Jil Sander under Simone Bellotti Simone Bellotti’s debut for Jil Sander emphasized cerebral minimalism. Neutral tailoring was disrupted by jolts of neon pink and lime, while gender-fluid silhouettes suggested a broader cultural lens. References to Richard Prince and conceptual art underlined its intellectual positioning. Critics applauded, though commercial prospects in China remain uncertain. The brand retains niche recognition, but lacks the celebrity engine driving rivals. Still, for a younger, art-savvy demographic, Jil Sander’s rigor offers distinction. MM6: Everyday objects reconstructed MM6 debuted its Spring 2026 collection, attended by Chinese stars Sun Yi and Wang Yuwen, staging its show outside its Quadrilatero flagship. At the end of the show models walked on the streets turning passerby into show viewers. Everyday items were reconfigured: dust bags became capes, jackets sprouted hanger shoulders, and oversized totes were carried like sculptures. Social traction was modest, yet the collection reinforced MM6’s cult positioning as a house for underground youth and fashion insiders. In China, the label appeals less to mainstream luxury buyers and more to niche communities who prize conceptual fashion as identity marker. The devil wears Dolce Gabbana Dolce Gabbana leaned on lingerie tailoring hybrids for Spring 2026, with corsetry worn under oversized blazers and silk pajama sets paired with sharp heels. Meryl Streep made a surprise appearance, improvising a scene from The Devil Wears Prada 2, making global headlines, as well as in China Yet in the country, traction was tepid: just 10 million Weibo views, with lingering resentment from past controversies overshadowing celebrity theatrics. The brand has staged repeated apologies and initiatives, but the shadow remains. Moschino: Surreal wit Adrian Appiolaza doubled down on Moschino’s surrealist heritage. Models carried handbags shaped like steel pots and clutches resembling apple boxes, while Franco Moschino’s 1992 “Niente” T-shirt was reissued via an eBay charity drop. The collection’s playful irreverence struck a chord on Xiaohongshu, where users posted about the show’s creative bag ideas, like a pot-like handbag or parcel-like pouch, and praised Moschino’s refusal to take itself too seriously. Loro Piana: Quiet luxury, loud scrutiny At the Palazzo Citterio, Loro Piana staged its collection amid artworks by Picasso and Carlo Carrà. Soft tailoring and refined fabrics were framed as art objects, underscoring the brand’s positioning as symbolic capital rather than mere apparel. Yet, behind the serene presentation, scrutiny is growing. Investigations into the business’ labor practices in Italy and alleged harm to vicuña-harvesting communities in Peru cast a shadow over the house. Under Frédéric Arnault, the brand is doubling down on its art-and-culture narrative, but reputational risk looms large. Brunello Cucinelli: Trust under pressure The so-called “King of Cashmere” faced turbulence this season after short-sellers alleged illicit sales to Russia, claims the company firmly denied. Investor trust wavered, with shares dipping despite robust financial performance. In Milan, Cucinelli delivered his usual soft tailoring and elevated knits, projecting calm stability. Chinese actresses Zhu Zhu and Li Yitong amplified the house’s presence, though traction on Chinese social media was modest compared with flashier rivals. For a brand that has built its identity on integrity and refusal to chase hype, reputational questions cut deeper than design critiques.

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Milan Fashion Week: Can Gucci, Versace stage a comeback in China?