Anderson at Dior: China’s verdict

What happened? Last week, few moments captured the fashion world’s attention quite like Jonathan Anderson’s debut for Dior man Spring 2026 menswear on Friday last week. The designer, widely credited for transforming Loewe into a powerhouse of craft and concept, faced a new challenge: translating his singular design vocabulary into the language of Dior. The show took place at Paris’s historic Hôtel des Invalides, where the exterior of the venue was adorned with black-and-white images of Dior’s 1950s-era silhouettes — an intentional nod to the maison’s archival elegance. Inside, Anderson introduced a quieter gesture of homage: two still-life paintings by 18th-century French master Jean Siméon Chardin were suspended above the runway. Their presence offered a contemplative counterpoint to the fashion, evoking a dialogue between past and present, intimacy and grandeur. Star power meets strategic vision The guest list, as expected, shimmered with star power. British actor Daniel Craig, forever associated with the sharp-suited legacy of James Bond, was joined by Robert Pattinson, Rihanna, Dior China ambassador, actor Yu Shi (于适), and rising star Li Yunrui (李昀锐). Together, they comprised a cross-section of global pop culture, masculinity, and influence, adding a cinematic sheen to a show already rich in narrative symbolism. The Jing Take In his first collection for Dior, Anderson approached the house’s storied menswear with a reverent yet subversive eye. Drawing from the brand’s archives, he reimagined classic silhouettes like the Bar Jacket and the tailcoat through a modern lens — refining tradition rather than rejecting it. One standout piece, a pair of pleated utility shorts inspired by Dior’s early “Delft” dresses, sparked buzz on Chinese social media, where users on Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote) dubbed them “the new holy grail” of Dior menswear. Accessories, long a cornerstone of Dior’s runway presence, were not overlooked. Anderson infused the iconic Book Tote with literary weight, transforming the bag into a homage to the printed word. Three versions were modeled after books (Dracula, Dior by Dior, and Dangerous Liaisons), turning fashion into a form of portable narrative. China’s verdict: Praise with caveats Still, the show was met with mixed reactions online, particularly among Chinese audiences. Praise dominated, but with caveats. Some critics noted the visual echoes of Anderson’s work at Loewe, with side-by-side comparisons of past Loewe looks and his Dior menswear doing the rounds on social media. Others questioned whether his distinctive aesthetic would resonate with Dior’s existing menswear clientele. “Loewe and Dior aren’t playing in the same league,” Xiaohongshu user @BambiDollaSign, wrote. “Can a younger, trend-driven audience really support Dior’s price point? And can a show like this truly retain the Dior Men customer — and grow the business?” Commercial question behind the creative vision Beneath the chatter lies a more fundamental question: As Anderson redefines Dior’s visual identity, can he also uphold its commercial momentum? In China, fans often speculate which looks will become viral hits each season. But with Anderson at the helm, that equation may no longer apply. As Dior’s eighth creative director, and the first to oversee all divisions of the house since its founding, Anderson isn’t just designing products, tasked with defining a new era. It’s worth remembering what he accomplished at Loewe, where, over the course of more than a decade, he transformed a little-known heritage label into one of fashion’s most respected houses of craft and conceptual clarity. If Dior grants him the same time and trust, might we witness the birth of a new “golden age,” written not in nostalgia, but in Anderson’s own visual language? The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media. Christian Dior picks Jonathan Anderson as womenswear designer L’or de Dior: Dior unveils gold-inspired exhibition in Beijing Dior Spring 25: Jisoo, Charli XCX, and Olympic inspiration How UBS broke into fashion, wearing Dior Jonathan Anderson bids farewell to Loewe

Anderson at Dior: China’s verdict

On this page

Published June 30, 2025

Sectors

Insights

Company

Anderson at Dior: China’s verdict