L’Oréal and Shiseido bet big on at-home microneedling

Two of the world’s biggest beauty giants are stepping further into the aesthetics arena — not by launching post-procedure recovery serums or partnering with clinics, but by developing the tools themselves. In May, Shiseido debuted its MicroClick Concentrate in Japan, a sleek 1.4ml single-use microneedling device priced at 36,300 Japanese yen ($250). The launch marks the company’s first foray into consumer microneedling devices, engineered to deliver niacinamide and barrier-repair ingredients deep into the skin through a disposable array of 18 micro-needles. More than just a delivery system, the brand claims the device also stimulates blood flow and gene expression relating to collagen and immunity. Meanwhile, L’Oréal is preparing to launch its Lancôme 400 Booster, a high-end microneedling tool with 400 nano-needles, in the U.K. this September via retailer Boots. Priced at 250 British pounds ($340), the device was co-developed with Chinese semiconductor firm Suzhou Nanosheng Electronics and is backed by a clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Designed to gently create “invisible micro-channels,” the tool enhances penetration of active ingredients without downtime — a key appeal for today’s convenience-oriented beauty consumer. Both devices reflect a pivotal shift in strategy: rather than supporting the aesthetics industry from the sidelines, beauty brands are now developing medical grade hardware for home use, targeting an audience that increasingly demands clinic-level results in the comfort of their own bathrooms. Online reactions: Microneedling hype heats up on Xiaohongshu The rise of microneedling is no longer confined to dermatology studios — it’s taking over Chinese social media. One viral product, VT Reddle Shot Microneedle Essence Mask, has sparked over 400,000 user-generated posts on Xiaohongshu, with consumers sharing their reactions, step-by-step video guides, and tips to reduce discomfort. The mask, which incorporates dissolvable microneedles infused with skincare actives, has created a content goldmine of tutorials answering the recurring questions: “Does it hurt?” and “Does it work?” Beauty KOLs often compare the tingling sensation to “tiny ants crawling,” but most agree the payoff — plumper, firmer skin — is worth the momentary sting. Several Xiaohongshu users have even posted side-by-side comparisons of results after one use, and challenges of the product’s various quantities of microneedles (the higher the number, the more it hurts), cementing the product as a cult favorite among efficacy-driven beauty shoppers. Hong Kong-based beauty KOL Tiffy tried out the VT Reddle Shot Microneedle Essence Mask 700, sharing on Xiaohongshu: “Wow, it actually stings! There is a bit of redness. It’s more painful than I expected, but still tolerable. My skin is slightly red and feels warm, so I’m applying a face mask right away to calm it down. The mask itself is soothing, but the tingling sensation lasted for about half a day.” She warns, “If you have sensitive skin or are experiencing active breakouts, I wouldn’t recommend microneedle essence. After using three times I see my pores do appear smaller and my acne scars are fading faster!” This explosion of user interest around microneedling skincare is proving that consumers are not only ready for tools like Shiseido and L’Oréal’s, they are already familiar with this type of product, and crave more advanced solutions. Verdict: Navigating China’s regulatory hurdles With China’s medical aesthetic market expected to hit 400 billion RMB ($57 billion) by 2026, and light procedures like microneedling already accounting for over half of that value, it’s no surprise that beauty conglomerates are betting on hardware to carve out a new hybrid category that merges cosmetic convenience with clinical outcomes. Microneedling, a hallmark of light aesthetics, offers a compelling proposition. Unlike injectables, it’s minimally invasive, and unlike topical skincare, it bypasses the epidermal barrier. For beauty groups, it provides a rare trifecta: scientific credibility, commercial viability, and consumer intrigue. Bypassing the clinic model Both Shiseido and L’Oréal’s launches emphasize at-home use, bypassing regulatory complexities and sidestepping the need for clinic partnerships. As brands exhaust traditional ingredient innovation, permeation enhancement through hardware is emerging as a key differentiator. With consumers growing more knowledgeable about bioavailability and delivery mechanisms, devices that offer better ingredient penetration could become the new status symbol in beauty regimens. However, neither product is yet available in China, where safety compliance and regulatory gray areas around microneedles have prompted brands to be cautious. At-home microneedling devices tread a fine line between cosmetics and medical categorization, especially in China, where oversight has intensified. Although L’Oréal and Shiseido’s current offerings are limited to overseas markets, their China ambitions will likely depend on how local regulators interpret these hybrid products. Still, the innovation race is accelerating. Chinese manufacturers are fast catching up with global counterparts in microneedle technology, especially soluble formats. In the meantime, the success of products like the VT Reddle Shot and the rising visibility of DIY microneedling on social media point to a receptive and ready market. For legacy brands navigating the saturation of serums and creams, microneedling may well become the next growth propellant.

L’Oréal and Shiseido bet big on at-home microneedling

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Published June 13, 2025

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L’Oréal and Shiseido bet big on at-home microneedling