Is it time for smaller fashion weeks to shine?

The Fall 2025 Paris Fashion Week circuit wraps up tomorrow, closing out a Fashion Month that felt noticeably quieter than past seasons. With the industry still nursing a spending slump hangover, the usual spectacle was dialed down. There were fewer viral moments, major designer absences, and more off-schedule presentations, alongside murmurs over whether London should consolidate shows into a single September season. But while the big four (Paris, Milan, London, New York) may be losing some of their shine, the party isn’t over just yet. Shanghai Fashion Week kicks off on March 25, bringing a fresh wave of domestic talent — including J E Cai and Xander Zhou — who are steadily carving out space on the global stage. Meanwhile, Copenhagen Fashion Week, which wrapped up in January, proved its growing influence with a lineup of buzzy brands like Icelandic outerwear label 66°North and minimalist powerhouse Filippa K. As consumers shift their attention to indie creatives over legacy houses, one question lingers: Is it finally time for the lesser-known fashion weeks to take center stage? Building momentum: Can smaller fashion weeks break through? Smaller fashion weeks have long struggled to maintain momentum against the dominance of the big four, with brands like Cecilie Bahnsen, Didu, and Ganni decamping to the mega circuits for greater visibility. But as the industry shifts, space is opening up for new fashion capitals to carve out their own influence. “Smaller fashion weeks offer something unique: a true sense of community,” says Romain Casella, founder and director of London-based creative agency May Concepts. “They create a space where designers, creatives, and industry experts can engage in an open, meaningful exchange. There’s a level of accessibility that makes these events unique, allowing not just professionals but also the wider public to experience fashion up close." Casella’s agency handled public relations for Lisbon Fashion Week, also known as Modalisboa, which took place from March 6 to yesterday this year and showcased Portuguese talent like Dino Alves and Valentim Quaresma. Shanghai Fashion Week gaining global traction Shanghai Fashion Week has likewise been steadily dialing up its global standing post-pandemic. Since returning to a physical format, the calendar has gained traction thanks to the rising pull of designers like Mark Gong and Shushu/Tong. Western heavyweights have taken note of Shanghai’s burgeoning commercial strength — in October last year, Moncler staged its Genius showcase there, while Vivienne Westwood closed out the official runway lineup with a restaging of its Paris Fashion Week collection. “With the support of the Shanghai Fashion Week ecosystem, young growing brands can quickly gain attention, and the best of them have obtained valuable opportunities to cooperate with internationally renowned companies,” says Landon Du, director of Shanghai Fashion Week. According to Du, international buyers swiftly returned to Shanghai Fashion Week after the pandemic, with their presence continuing to grow. Copenhagen, Riyadh, Lisbon rise as international fashion contenders Copenhagen Fashion Week is also pulling in an increasingly high-caliber crowd, with a reported 50 to 60 global press members and buyers attending each season. Meanwhile, Saudi Arabia’s Riyadh Fashion Week is gaining momentum after a successful inaugural edition in 2023, shining a spotlight on local designers. The timing aligns with the region’s ambitions. Last year, Saudi Arabia’s fashion sector contributed 2.5% to the country’s GDP. Once dismissed as second-tier, these rising fashion weeks are proving to be powerful launchpads. Ethical Saudi label Abadia, which presented at Riyadh Fashion Week, has achieved global success thanks to its presence on the calendar, landing a spot on Net-a-Porter and securing major international investment. They also help host cities build cultural and economic clout. While smaller in scale, these events act as engines of growth, creating jobs across multiple sectors, driving tourism, and increasing retail sales. “Lisbon Fashion Week plays an important role in shaping the city’s creative identity,” says Casella. “Events like these help the city pulse with creative energy, reinforcing its potential as a hub for innovation and independent design.” Challenges of competing with the big four There’s a lot to contend with when going up against the global dominance of the big four. One of the biggest hurdles for smaller fashion weeks is securing the presence of A-list celebrities and megastars, key figures who drive online buzz and shape the cultural conversation at these events. Even homegrown Chinese stars are more likely to fly to Paris or Milan to sit front row, a trend driven largely by them being snapped up as ambassadors by major Western luxury houses, rather than attend Shanghai Fashion Week. Meanwhile, IMG, the media giant behind Australian Fashion Week, exited from the annual calendar last year, highlighting the vulnerability of smaller fashion circuits. As the calendar’s primary supporter, IMG’s absence has thrown the future of Australian Fashion Week in doubt. Then there’s the reality that these smaller fashion weeks are still at the mercy of the industry’s power players. When New York Fashion Week shifted its dates last year, it created a ripple effect that forced Berlin Fashion Week to reschedule to avoid an overlap that would have likely diminished its visibility. As a result, Berlin now runs from January 31 to February 3, directly after Copenhagen Fashion Week, creating a logistical headache for designers and buyers alike. For emerging designers, this lack of control is a major disadvantage. With schedules dictated by the big four, many up-and-coming brands risk losing crucial buyer appointments and media visibility. No matter how strong these smaller fashion weeks may be, press, buyers, and industry heavyweights are unlikely to prioritize them over the long-established giants. What’s next for emerging fashion weeks? Looking ahead, while the big four still maintain a firm grip on the industry and public conversation, the future is looking promising for smaller fashion week schedules. As consumers seek credible alternatives to mass-market luxury — especially in light of brands like Dior and Armani facing scrutiny over unethical labor practices — smaller events that boast sustainability-driven designers are gaining traction. Incubators like Labelhood in Shanghai and CPHFW’s Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize are also helping to elevate emerging designers, giving them the resources to break through on the global stage. Du also highlights how Shanghai Fashion Week has built its own ecosystem by evolving and collaborating with businesses across the fashion capital, aiming to expand into broader lifestyle sectors. Meanwhile, Lisbon Fashion Week aims to champion Portuguese fashion through a city-wide program of runway shows, exhibitions, conferences, and workshops. As melting pots of fresh talent and untapped potential, these lesser-known fashion weeks are carving out space for themselves, offering something the big four can’t always deliver: a real sense of innovation and purpose.

Is it time for smaller fashion weeks to shine?

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Published March 10, 2025

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Is it time for smaller fashion weeks to shine?