In conversation with BVLGARI CEO: Digital innovation and craftsmanship for a sustainable future

At the 8th China International Import Expo (CIIE), BVLGARI, the Roman high jeweler, an important brand under LVMH Group, presented its cutting-edge explorations in digitalization and sustainability to the Chinese market. Centered around the theme “Sustainable by Innovation,” BVLGARI showcased in-depth practices where technology revitalizes craftsmanship, reinterpreting “timeless beauty” through a dialogue between innovation and tradition. On this occasion, Jing Daily conducted an in-depth conversation with BVLGARI CEO Jean-Christophe Babin. He emphasized that BVLGARI’s sustainability strategy is not merely a technological innovation but a long-term mission encompassing time, culture, and responsibility. Technology illuminating unseen beauty In the high-end luxury industry, technology is undoubtedly a double-edged sword. It greatly enhances speed and efficiency, yet the intrinsic value of luxury relies on the accumulation of time, craftsmanship, and emotion. Facing this paradox, BVLGARI has found a balance — using technology as a narrative medium rather than the protagonist. At this year’s CIIE, the brand’s themed pavilion demonstrated efforts to present product craftsmanship through virtual reality and other digital technologies. Guests could use Apple Vision Pro to experience the “Bvlgari Infinito” application, exploring the intricate details of jewelry settings that are invisible to the naked eye. Regarding the role of technology in brand development, Babin gave a clear explanation to Jing Daily: “The technology in BVLGARI is not in the product, but it’s used to enhance and glorify the product. Why do we use it? To show you on your jewel what your eyes would never see.” In his view, every innovation at BVLGARI points to the brand’s core values — the cultural heritage of Rome, the spirit of craftsmanship, and human creativity. Driven by a deep reverence for craftsmanship, BVLGARI has drawn a clear boundary in the age of digital transformation — technology may refine processes, but it can never replace inspiration. Regardless of technological advancement, the brand always preserves the human element and the space for creative expression. Babin articulated BVLGARI’s fundamental principle of innovation: craftsmanship is the soul, technology is the tool. He emphasized: “AI won't design the watch for us or design the jewelry because our people are better than ChatGPT to understand Rome and to translate Rome into a jewel because we are Roman.” The journey of tracing gems While using technology to revitalize tradition, BVLGARI also builds a foundation for sustainable development. Transforming the essence of craftsmanship into traceable credentials, the brand has established a “transparency and traceability” system, making every piece truly different. Today, in the global luxury market, transparency has evolved from a corporate choice to a universal expectation, a change accelerated by the pandemic. Babin noted: “This phenomenon of quest for transparency, for integrity, also for sustainability is a global phenomenon. Covid has been a kind of an accelerator. Covid has made it more important because people had time to think. So our brains were probably more sensitive to more things in life.” About 10 years ago, BVLGARI began digitally certifying products by embedding NFC microchips in handbags, marking the start of a systematic “transparency and traceability” initiative. In recent years, the brand has gradually established a cross-category certification system covering watches and jewelry, engraving data matrix codes on watches and assigning unique serial numbers to jewelry, integrating them with blockchain technology to create an immutable “digital passport” for each product. At CIIE, BVLGARI showcased its latest achievements in “transparency and traceability” to the Chinese market. Visitors could experience the full process in real time through technological installations at the exhibition, while customers could also scan product identification codes on their phones before purchase to learn about the gem’s origin, material, and grade. In Babin’s view, the significance of “transparency and traceability” lies in its ability to break down informational barriers between the brand and its customers, rebuilding trust through facts. For businesses, it aligns with industry standards and ethics, serves as a tool to enhance sales efficiency, and ensures the lasting value of products in circulation. However, implementing “transparency and traceability” requires significant resources and patience. Babin admitted that the biggest challenge is not technology itself but data verification: “We have to know for the gems where they come from. And sometimes it’s not easy because you have so many different gems. POLYCHROMA, which is the 2025 High Jewelry collection, is using, believe it or not, 56 different gems.” He explained that BVLGARI sources materials both directly from mining companies and through independent gem dealers, provided they can supply complete documentation. Even then, internal teams must verify authenticity individually. The long hours and high costs invested in this process, though unknown to the public, form a special barrier for the brand. When each piece has a corresponding “digital identity,” it becomes irreplaceable — a precious asset in luxury goods. Thus, “transparency and traceability” transcends sustainability, becoming a contemporary embodiment of the brand spirit. Continuing its commitment to quality and trust, BVLGARI also focuses on product maintenance in daily use. The brand launched “Shine Service,” offering free and efficient deep cleaning and shining for jewelry, addressing common customer pain points. “Shine Service” redefines after-sales care — it is not merely a transactional closure but an ongoing relationship. Every on-site service and interaction strengthens the connection with customers, fostering long-term loyalty. From a business perspective, it represents a high-return, subtle investment, enhancing customer satisfaction while attracting repeat visits at low cost. Rooted in culture, cultivating timeless beauty Whether through technology or “transparency and traceability,” these are new avenues for transmitting the brand’s spirit. BVLGARI’s origin — Rome — embodies power, art, and eternity. In the East, China similarly shapes cultural confidence through civilization and history. Babin noted: “China and Rome have very similar stories. We had imperial dynasties, which created architecture which you can still see nowadays.” This cross-civilizational resonance allows BVLGARI’s expression in China to connect naturally. The iconic “SERPENTI” collection’s popularity in China confirms this, with the sinuous serpent symbolizing rebirth and wisdom in Roman mythology while aligning with the spirituality and vitality in Chinese culture. It thus serves as a bridge between civilizations, transcending geography and language. BVLGARI’s design language is always rooted in its cultural soil. Babin recalled: “In the 19th century, there was no internet, there were no trains, no aircraft. So what did you know about the world? Nothing. Basically when the master jewelers of the Bvlgari family started to craft jewelry, they were influenced by Rome architecture and arts. Inspired by monuments, the Colosseum, inspired by mosaics. And our jewelry was born out of our art and architecture because it was the only source of inspiration.” Today, Rome remains BVLGARI’s source of inspiration; regardless of market changes, the style always has a clear origin. In this sense, confidence and adherence to its cultural roots empower BVLGARI to withstand the test of time. Babin believes that cultural DNA is a structural asset that can translate into commercial growth. When creativity is grounded in culture, the brand gains self-renewal capacity, achieving compounded commercial growth —a principle that aligns with Chinese brands exploring their own heritage. True competitiveness arises from discovering and reinventing one’s cultural roots. Despite rapid market changes, BVLGARI continuously interprets its classics through “sustainability.” Sustainability means that products transcend their era, resonating within contemporary cultural contexts. However, most brands face a core paradox: creative generation requires freedom and breadth, while establishing a classic relies on restraint and depth. Too many “classics” blur the core narrative, confusing consumers. As Babin said: “If they have too many icons, they would have zero icons. Because if a brand has too many iconic pieces, it means it has none.” This is the philosophy of “less is more” manifested in brand management. Babin pointed out sharply that a “classic” cannot be decreed — it is a slow fermentation under the joint influence of aesthetic value and contemporary spirit. He further explained: “We know Serpenti has existed for over 75 years. It’s impossible to decide when you create a product whether it will become an icon. When we created Serpenti, we didn't know.” This unpredictability requires a dual-track strategy between “safeguarding classics” and “exploring the unknown.” On one hand, sustaining proven designs enriches their lineage; on the other, innovation space is maximally preserved. Notably, the jewelry category’s unique “circular economy” provides a risk buffer for BVLGARI’s innovations. Babin said: “In jewelry more than in any other category, you must be daring because the cost of failure is quite limited. If a jewel doesn’t sell well, you fuse it and you do another ring. On jewelry, it’s like a circular economy.” Compared to other luxury categories with tens of thousands of units at risk, jewelry’s lower failure cost allows BVLGARI to boldly explore new materials and designs, cultivating the next generation of iconic creations. Successful innovation yields geometric returns, boosting market sales, and accruing symbolic capital in high-exposure contexts, ultimately establishing dynamic growth balance. Through Babin’s insights and reflections, it is clear that in BVLGARI’s philosophy, technology and craftsmanship are not opposites but coexistent; sustainability is not a trend but an inevitability. “Time” is the central thread of the brand’s philosophy — when innovation is measured against time, true value emerges: creativity that transcends eras and endures. This is precisely the core message and enduring belief in sustainability that BVLGARI seeks to share with the Chinese market through this year’s CIIE.

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In conversation with BVLGARI CEO: Digital innovation and craftsmanship for a sustainable future