From ENG Concept, to Kicki Yang Zhang, China’s subculture representatives need to be on global brands’ radar

From local influencers to designers, established Chinese names can be a direct route for brands to leverage the popularity and community of subcultures. That is the strategy highlighted in this week’s Chinese brand collaborations. Japanese sportswear giant Asics continues to prioritize celebrating pockets of culture through selective collaborations. The brand has previously collaborated with 8On8, Empty Behavior, streetwear store Costs, and consistently with Shushu/Tong. The latest? Beauty influencer Kicki Yang Zhang. In the same vein as Asics, fellow global household name footwear brand Ugg has reunited with Shuting Qiu, and ENG Concept Store has launched a limited edition Knwls capsule in the Chinese market. Subscribe here to receive these updates in your inbox every Tuesday. Asics x Kicki Yang Zhang Details: Gel-NYC sneakers in cream pink and black, September 26 Social context: On Xiaohongshu, #asicsjointseries has 7.5 million reads, #kicki has just 3,121, and #Asics has 224.1 million. Kicki Yang Zhang has 323,000 followers on Instagram. Verdict: Kicki Yang Zhang’s collaboration with Asics reflects her distinctive approach to defining her cultural identity through fashion and beauty. Known for incorporating Chinese guohua (ink painting) motifs into her makeup looks, Zhang brings her heritage into the sneaker world, offering a design that merges her personal aesthetic with the Asics Gel-NYC silhouette. That the pink sneakers from Zhang’s Asics collaboration sold out quickly signals strong demand for her creative vision and her influence as a beauty and fashion icon. This one-year-long design process, resulting in two pairs of sneakers, highlights the meticulous effort and anticipation surrounding the release, while also underscoring Zhang’s prominence in the fashion world. The designer’s energetic campaign, which involved stunts like trampoline jumping and rope balancing, reflects a dynamic, playful approach to marketing that mirrors her bold personal style. The collaboration between Zhang and her management team in producing and creatively directing the entire campaign further exemplifies the power of influencers taking control of their brand narrative to deliver memorable, impactful visual storytelling. Shuting Qiu x Ugg Details: New Heights Platform Xtra, Classic Twin Seam New Heights, and New Heights Cozy Clog, Spring 2025 Social context: On Xiaohongshu, #shutingqiu has 710,300 reads, and #ugg has 521.1 million. Verdict: Shuting Qiu’s collaboration with Ugg blends her bold, eccentric style with the iconic American footwear brand’s established models. This fusion brings a maximalist and vibrant twist to Ugg’s classic silhouettes, marking a distinct departure from the brand’s usual design language. Known for her innovative use of clashing colors and prints, Qiu injects a playful, feminine energy into Ugg’s footwear designs. Her Antwerp-trained artistic vision brings a high-fashion perspective to Ugg’s comfortable and casual image, elevating the shoes into statement pieces that reflect her unique aesthetic. This is the third collaboration between Qiu and Ugg, demonstrating the latter’s commitment to integrating contemporary fashion influences. Coupled with Qiu’s recent partnerships with Estée Lauder and The Middle House, this partnership also signals her growing influence and appeal in the luxury and fashion industries, positioning her as a versatile designer at the intersection of fashion, beauty, and lifestyle. Knwls x ENG Concept Store Details: Cats & Dragons capsule collection, October 11 Social context: ENG Concept Store has 18,100 followers on Xiaohongshu, where #knwls has 241,000 views. Verdict: ENG Concept Store, under the leadership of founder Sherry Huang, has effectively positioned itself as a Gen Z-focused luxury hub. Set to account for 25% to 30% of luxury purchases by 2030 [Bain], Gen Z makes up 23% of ENG’s customer base, highlighting the store’s success in capturing this tech-savvy, fashion-forward demographic. The Cats & Dragons capsule by Knwls, with its exclusive launch at ENG, aligns perfectly with the edgy, bold aesthetic that appeals to this young audience. By collaborating with Knwls, a London-based brand known for its avant-garde, deconstructed styles, and featuring Malaysian pop star Bbyqngel in the campaign, ENG reinforces its cultural relevance, and support of new era fashion designers. While ENG’s turnover of RMB 8.9 million in 2020 may seem modest compared to luxury giants, the store is steadily gaining traction. With a second location now at Shanghai’s Youth Energy Center (TX Mall), Huang is expanding ENG’s reach, leveraging insights into consumer culture and preferences. ENG’s rise suggests a focus on niche marketing and deep understanding of target audience demographics set the stage for expansion in the competitive luxury retail sector.

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Gen Z tastes propel China’s collab culture

How Bottega Veneta weaved China’s forever it bag