What’s driving neo-Chinese style’s big comeback?

Last month, online streetwear circles were searching for ways to buy an Adidas Originals Tang Suit-style track jacket. The sportswear giant was trending for artfully blending streetwear and heritage for Lunar New Year. To global consumer dismay, the sweatshirt is only available in mainland China. But the viral moment points to a larger phenomenon: a rising global appetite for “neo-Chinese style” (新中式). This aesthetic movement, which reimagines traditional Chinese design elements for contemporary fashion, has exploded across social media. On Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote) alone, the trend’s hashtag has generated 7.9 billion views and 23.2 million posts, with style mavens eagerly breaking down the style for newcomers. The momentum continues on TikTok, where “neo-Chinese style” has inspired 27 million posts. What is Neo-Chinese style? Spanning from contemporary cheongsams to “hanfu” (汉服)-inspired outerwear, “neo-Chinese style” represents more than just updated historical garments — it embodies a cultural renaissance driven by a generation of Chinese youth embracing their heritage with pride. A modern take on historical clothing, the trend has been around a lot longer than social media platforms. While social media might make this trend appear new, its roots trace back nearly a century. The 1930s transformation of the qipao (旗袍) offers a compelling parallel: this traditional garment evolved into the sleek, form-fitting cheongsam we know today, influenced by Western tailoring techniques. Now ubiquitous on TikTok, the dress remains deeply embedded in Chinese culture, particularly as bridal wear, though its use by non-Chinese wearers continues to spark debate about cultural appropriation. “Fashion in Asia has passed its ‘identity recognition’ era,” Liren Shih, the Taiwan-born, London-based founder of NNN Creative design agency , tells Jing Daily. “People are now focusing on market research and not trying to wear traditional style for superficial reasons. It has finally become a part of daily clothing choices, rather than a statement of traditional clothing.” The journey from appropriation to appreciation has been long. In the early 2000s, Western luxury houses — from Roberto Cavalli in 2003 to John Galliano at Dior in 1997 — often incorporated qipaos into their collections with little cultural context, riding the wave of superficial Chinoiserie. But 2025’s interpretation of “neo-Chinese” fashion tells a different story: one where China’s growing global influence and flourishing local design scene have fostered a more authentic and nuanced appreciation of Chinese aesthetics. A new wave of Chinese designers is rising to cult popularity, transforming “Made in China” from a manufacturing label into a mark of creative innovation. These rising stars aren’t just showcasing exceptional craftsmanship — they're achieving cult status by masterfully reinterpreting their cultural heritage for a contemporary audience. Key players in the ‘neo-Chinese’ fashion movement Take Feng Chen Wang, whose collections thoughtfully weave Chinese cultural elements into contemporary menswear. Her recent work, drawing inspiration from the ancient Chinese text Shanjai Jing (The Classic of Mountains and Seas), exemplifies how designers are mining their cultural heritage for modern inspiration. “The global recognition of Chinese fashion design is a reflection of our cultural roots growing over the past decades,” Wang tells Jing Daily. ”This transformation is not coincidental. It stems from a generation of designers deeply nurturing their cultural heritage — no longer rushing to prove ourselves, but rather, re-crafting heritage techniques and stories.” This cultural renaissance is evident across the industry. Vivienne Tam’s Spring 2025 collection showcases this evolution, featuring collaborations with artisans from Hainan’s Li ethnic minority, and incorporating their 3,000-year-old brocade weaving techniques. Former fashion editor at Hypebae China and now consultant, Gracie Chen points to brands such as Samuel Guì Yang, Clot, Angel Chen, Uma Wang, and Yueqi Qi as leading the “neo-Chinese style” trend globally. However, Chen notes an important distinction in how these designs are worn. Most people aren't wearing full “neo-Chinese” looks, she says. “It’s more about finding alternatives, or a little surprise/spice in their daily wardrobe. That said, I do see a lot of Gen Z wearing hanfu, but more for cosplay or cultural appreciation rather than as an everyday fashion choice,” she adds. Experimental aesthetics drive ‘neo-Chinese’ creativity Along with Adidas’ take on the Tang jacket, other global brands are using collaborations to incorporate Chinese elements products. “The most recent neo-Chinese hype I noticed in the industry circle would be the Ao Yes x Zara collection — they did a pretty good job,” Miranda Huang, a public relations expert at brand consultancy agency Boh Project says. Infused with design elements like the Chinese knot and zodiac symbols, Zara’s Year of the Snake collaboration resonated strongly with consumers. But it’s on Xiaohongshu where the most experimental interpretations are emerging, following a more fluorescent aesthetic. Gen Z creators are making the trend their own, producing a kitsch visual clash of neon color palettes, 1990s Chinese memorabilia, and funky prints on qipao dresses. Is ‘neo-Chinese’ style losing steam in 2025? This cultural renaissance, documented in Taobao and Tmall’s 2022 Apparel Industry Trend Report, may be approaching a turning point. “I think neo-Chinese style is fading,” says Huang. “It’s been quite popular over the past two years, but people will start to feel fatigue.” Indeed, many domestic fashion designers are now taking a more nuanced approach, weaving in subtle traditional elements, rather than creating literal interpretations of historical garb, like qipao. This evolution has made the boundaries of “neo-Chinese” style increasingly fluid in 2025. “Ten years ago, Chinese design meant clichéd silk embroidery for export,” Wang says. “Now, 37% of our Paris show orders come from European boutiques seeking not ‘exoticism,’ but innovation rooted in heritage. The term ‘mainstream’ isn't a gate to crash — it’s a dialogue we’re redefining stitch by stitch.”

What’s driving neo-Chinese style’s big comeback?

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Published February 07, 2025

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What’s driving neo-Chinese style’s big comeback?