From underwire to underwhelming: What killed global lingerie in China

What happened Several well-known international lingerie labels have recently announced their withdrawal from the Chinese market, drawing industry-wide attention. On November 21, Triumph announced it will cease mainland China operations by year-end. Founded in Germany in 1886, the mid-to-premium brand typically priced its Tmall offerings at RMB 200–500 ($28–$70), with select pieces reaching RMB 800 ($112). French label Etam will shutter its Tmall flagship on November 30, while luxury lingerie house La Perla abruptly closed its Tmall storefront in June. Their retreat marks the end of an era. These brands shaped how a generation of Chinese women understood lingerie, leveraging early-mover advantage and distinct identities. Triumph introduced structured underwire systems to China and operated over 1,000 stores at its 2016 peak — for many, it was their first “real” bra. La Perla, meanwhile, embodied luxury and sensuality at the highest tier. The Jing Take Despite these exits, China’s lingerie sector remains robust. According to a white paper by Forward Industry Research, the women’s lingerie market is projected to reach 495.3 billion RMB ($70.0 billion) by 2030, driven by market maturity and evolving consumer preferences. At the same time, domestic labels are rising swiftly. Tmall’s 2025 Double 11 (Singles’ Day) lingerie rankings show the top five sellers as Bananain, Ubras, Victoria’s Secret, Miiow, and Youkeshu — with Victoria’s Secret being the sole foreign brand among them. These Chinese brands champion wire-free, size-free designs that emphasize comfort and ease, typically priced between 100 and 300 RMB ($14–$42). Their success stems from recognizing the local shift toward comfort and responding with focused product innovation and agile supply chains. Consumer data confirms shift toward comfort Consumer data reinforces the trend. According to iiMedia Research, 77.1% of shoppers prioritize comfort above all else, followed by quality (70%) and breathability (68.5%). As a result, traditional underwear now holds only 35% of the market, while wire-free and sport-inspired categories are growing at over 20%. Against this backdrop, traditional global players like Triumph appear increasingly out of touch. Long anchored in underwire shaping and an outward-focused aesthetic, they were slow to recognize China’s pivot toward comfort and self-expression. By the time they launched wire-free options, both timing and pricing missed the mark. Their heavy brick-and-mortar footprint and sluggish digital transition compounded the problem. This shift is no accident. The retreat of foreign brands and rise of domestic players marks a turning point. China remains a massive market, but the rules have been rewritten. Industry leadership is shifting irreversibly from global giants to nimble local brands that understand Chinese consumers intimately. A full-scale comfort revolution is underway. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

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From underwire to underwhelming: What killed global lingerie in China