Asia’s LGBT+ market grows — but not without backlash

Seoul was draped in rainbow colors last weekend as tens of thousands of LGBT+ Koreans and their supporters joined the 26th annual Seoul Queer Culture Festival. The massive crowd marched past some 70 promotional booths while chanting this year’s slogan: “We will not stop.” Across the street, cries of “Homosexuality is a sin! God will judge!” blared alongside gospel songs as evangelical Christian communities rallied in an attempt to drown out the atmosphere of the parade. The scene of tension, however, is all too familiar. Every June in recent years, pride celebrations have been met with fierce counter-protests from religious and far-right groups. Back in 2019, conservative Christians proposed to stop the parade on the grounds that “it would be harmful to children,” a motion later rejected by the court. In 2023, Seoul’s municipal government blocked the festival from taking place outside city hall, instead giving the prime spot to an anti-LGBT+ Christian concert. A similar permit denial followed the next year. The growing antagonism reflects an increasing cultural backlash, adding to the persisting political and institutional resistance. The rapid rise of LGBT+ spaces This annual parade in Seoul, one of the largest of its kind in Asia, started small in 2000, when just 50 people gathered in Daehangno, or “university street,” in the downtown area. The event reached record attendance in both 2019 and 2024, with approximately 150,000 participants each year. Alongside the event’s early development, physical establishments for LGBT+ and non-binary communities mushroomed in the early 2000s. Itaewon came to be known as “Homo Hill,” home to some of the country’s oldest gay bars and clubs. In the late 2000s and 2010s, more lesbian and women-only spaces emerged in other parts of Seoul — most notably in Hongdae, known for its youthful arts culture, and Sinchon, which houses the famous Ewha Womans University. Beyond South Korea, neighboring countries were also experiencing change, driven by younger generations challenging patriarchy and advocating for marginalized groups. Major Asian cities saw a proliferation of queer bars, women-only cafés, unisex co-working spaces, and other low-profile, community-centered venues in the 2010s. Tokyo’s Shinjuku Ni-chome, Japan’s most established gay district, offers a diverse range of guesthouses and coworking spots catering to local and international LGBT+ travelers. The area is also home to Okamalt, the city’s only bookshop dedicated to LGBT+ literature. In Ho Chi Minh City, Pride Café, which doubles as a queer book club, has developed into a top destination for Vietnam’s gender minorities. Beyond the rainbow: Evolving consumer needs Still, these pockets of progress have sparked a new wave where beauty and fashion are no longer confined to binary boundaries. Younger generations in Asia, benefiting from higher levels of education and earlier exposure to globalization, are collectively questioning traditional gender ideals. Fashion, a visible form of self-expression, has become a leading force in breaking away from stereotypical binary norms. Japan is at the forefront of the genderless fashion trend. Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto began challenging gender-based dressing conventions in the 1980s with flowing, abstract silhouettes. In China, topics with the hashtag #GenderlessDressing (#无性别穿搭) have garnered 1.9 billion views on Xiaohongshu. Bosie, one of China’s first homegrown genderless fashion brands, reported annual sales growth of over 200% in its first three years after launching in 2018. Beauty is also becoming fluid. In the first half of the 2010s, men’s cosmetics sales in South Korea grew 86%. Indie skincare startups in Thailand are also hopping on this wave with a full range of gender-neutral products. Beyond fashion and beauty, there’s a growing market for queer-friendly accommodations and gender-diverse travel packages, led by Thailand. Adopting a gender-free, non-conformist consumer culture is bringing more attention to gender equality and fluidity. In turn, the expanding genderless market is shaping and reshaping public perceptions of gender, opening new possibilities for self-expression across Asia. A bubble burst? But why is this? The past couple of years have seen a burst in the bubble of LGBT+ and non-binary spaces and services across the region. In societies still grappling with gender inequality and safety concerns, public unease often flares up — despite inclusive intentions. The 2023 ASEAN Queer Advocacy Week in Jakarta was canceled after receiving security threats amid mounting pressure from religious conservatives. Every few years, reports emerge of police raids on LGBT+ bars in Indonesia, with dozens arrested. At the most recent Pride parade in Seoul, the National Human Rights Commission of Korea ended an eight-year streak of participation, citing the need to maintain neutrality. The decision was made by commission head Ahn Chang-ho, who was appointed by the country’s recently outed conservative president Yoon Suk-yeol. “Men who uphold male supremacy will never allow such events or spaces to exist unchallenged. They will resort to every means, from physical intimidation to leveraging state power to marginalize these communities,” says Dr. Soojin Lee, a sociologist in East Asia who writes about LGBT issues. This January, two prominent LGBT+ bars in Singapore’s historical Neil Road area closed due to financial strain. That same month, Kockiri, Seoul’s only LGBT+ electronic music club, closed indefinitely amid cultural challenges and licensing difficulties. Like many places, a narrow customer base and economic downturns pose risks to their financial sustainability, compounded by limited legal recognition and societal acceptance. Rising LGBT+ visibility amid conservative backlash “Such resistance can ultimately be attributed to a lack of education and mutual trust within a society. Intentional attempts to sow division also play a role,” says a gender culture observer of Asian societies who requested anonymity. He has visited several LGBT+ clubs and community centers in Beijing and was surprised to find that the health education and resources they offered were largely symbolic and fell short of providing true safe havens. “What’s more, some people made these spaces highly politicized, escalating the ‘ideological confrontation,’” he adds. The intensive decline stems from an interplay of cultural, political, and institutional factors. A sentiment toward traditional binary values is staging a comeback. A case in point is the public outcry over Han Kang’s Nobel-winning The Vegetarian for portraying the harms of masculinity. The book was removed from school libraries following a petition signed by over 10,000 conservative parents. The pushback has fostered a regressive climate for both feminism and non-binary advocacy. “In recent years we’ve been seeing the mainstreaming of misogyny,” says Lee. “Those patriarchs try to stop anyone who challenges their social norms from seeking legitimate rights and independence.” “Men’s historically entrenched dominance, amplified by their influence in public discourse and the rise of digital gender discrimination in recent decades, has contributed to the setback in gender equality progress worldwide,” she adds. While resistance and backlash persist, the evolving landscape of fashion, beauty, and lifestyle reflects a broader cultural shift driven by younger generations eager to redefine identity beyond binaries. This ongoing transformation signals hope for a more inclusive future — one where diversity in gender and expression is not just tolerated but celebrated.

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Asia’s LGBT+ market grows — but not without backlash