From him to her: How watch brands are courting China’s female buyers

At Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Shanghai exhibition in September this year, the Caliber 101 — a movement so tiny it was once embedded in Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation bracelet — drew crowds of well-heeled Chinese women. Some joked they could barely read its miniature dial. But legibility wasn’t the point. They were buying mechanical poetry. Scenes like this are playing out across Mainland China’s luxury watch sector as brands execute a calculated pivot toward women. With the men’s market down sharply — Chinese demand for Swiss imports plunged 36% YoY in August 2025 — female buyers have emerged as both ballast and opportunity. In early July this year, Van Cleef & Arpels staged the Poetry of Time exhibition in Shanghai, courting female collectors with a theatrical collision of mechanics and romance at the West Bund Art Center. Weeks later, Omega unveiled women’s pieces in Chengdu at its Whispering Time showcase, while Jaeger-LeCoultre's Dream Shaper of Time retrospective in September traced a century of female awakening — from women once cast as recipients of jeweled gifts to becoming masters of their own time. But behind the fanfare of “made for her” campaigns lies sharper questions: Why are nearly all high-end houses doubling down on women now? What drives women to buy watches — horological passion, identity, or emotional resonance? A long-term bet in a weak market Behind this strategic pivot lies an unavoidable truth: a luxury watch market long reliant on male consumers is facing a pronounced slowdown. Switzerland’s export data offers the clearest evidence. According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, exports in August 2025 fell 16.4% YoY to 1.57 billion Swiss francs, with volumes down more than 13%. All major markets posted double-digit declines. In this climate of contraction, watchmakers are moving in lockstep toward women — less a passing trend than a calculated bid for incremental growth in a saturated field. “The shift is being driven by both female purchasing power and evolving social attitudes,” says Gao Ming, managing director of luxury and lifestyle at Ruder Finn Greater China. Women are making up a larger share of high-income and high-net-worth groups, he adds, and increasingly serve as key decision-makers in household and personal wealth. At the same time, cultural perceptions are changing: buying a watch has become an expression of accomplishment and identity, with motivation shifting from gifts received to purchases made for oneself. Data from Tmall Luxury underscores the shift. Self-purchasing is rising and skewing toward higher price points. Sales in the $11,000-$14,000 bracket are flattish, while in the $14,000-$28,000 range and beyond, demand is expanding. “The gifting market is still there,” Gao says. “Women’s watches are powered by two engines: gifting and self-purchase. The baseline is larger than ever.” The opportunity, however, comes with caveats. “When the market slumps, women’s watches hold steadier,” says Ding Zhixiang, editor-in-chief of Chronos China magazine. “Yet, most brand promotions still center on men’s models. Everyone is looking for differentiation to drive sales.” Women’s watches remain a smaller segment, and the industry still tilts toward men. Still, brands are recognizing that women represent not just a stabilizer in downturns, but a long-term growth engine. Emotional connection matters Unlike male consumers, who often obsess over movements and complications, women approach watch buying with different priorities. Functionality and technical mastery take a back seat to visual impact, emotional resonance, and social versatility. For many women, a watch is first a refined accessory, then a timekeeping tool. Aesthetics serve as the primary filter. In July this year, Lin Lee, a longtime luxury buyer, told Jing Daily she had recently purchased a 1 million RMB ($140,000) Van Cleef & Arpels fairy watch. Though she once admired Patek Philippe, she had grown “tired” of it. What captivates her now are pieces where dials depict whimsical elements, turning the watch into a moving fairy tale. Traditional timepieces, by contrast, merely display time, lacking this sense of poetry. Beyond the intricacies of calibers, women want storytelling and design that align with their emotions. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dream Shaper of Time exhibition in Shanghai this September exemplified that approach. More than a retrospective, it became a cultural dialogue with women, showcasing icons like the Reverso as symbols of female multiplicity. At its core was the maison’s miniature mastery: the Caliber 101, launched in 1929, which transformed timepieces into jeweled ornaments. The 1964 Montre Joaillerie 101 embodied that idea — time embedded in jewelry, a secret ritual on the wrist. “It’s still a favorite among female clients,” says Chang Yuan, a seasoned luxury sales expert. “They even joke that the dial is too small to read as they age. But that’s the point — it feels more like a treasure, intimate and elegant.” Gao points to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2022 Rendez-Vous Dazzling Shooting Star as a quintessential blend of romance and mechanical artistry. Its signature “shooting star complication” offers moments of delight. “What makes this timepiece truly captivating is its ability to trace the arc of a shooting star in roughly six seconds, recreating the fleeting magic of seeing one streak across the night sky,” he says. “Even more enchanting, the meteor can appear either on demand through manual winding, or entirely at random — unpredictable, and therefore precious. In a world defined by precise mechanics, this deliberate uncertainty is a rare luxury.” To achieve this effect, Jaeger-LeCoultre equipped the meteor mechanism with a dedicated barrel, where energy accumulated through automatic winding triggers the shooting star. This blend of technical ingenuity and emotional storytelling resonates in the social media age, where shareability and emotional value are paramount. “Whether a watch can go viral on Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote), stand out in photos and videos, or spark questions from friends — its social currency has become a critical driver of sales,” says Ding. Big dials, bold statements Beyond aesthetics, traditional professional watches are increasingly favored by women. The shift signals a broader change in Mainland China’s consumer mindset: the rise of the “female lead era,” where women are moving away from dainty timepieces in favor of larger dials that project presence, strength, and professionalism. Long coveted by men, Rolex has become one of the most sought-after brands among women. In both primary and secondary markets, demand is surging. “Rolex is being chased like crazy,” said Chang. “Models like the Rainbow Daytona (彩虹迪) or Panda Daytona (熊猫迪) are especially hot. After building collections of the classics, many clients circle back to acquire pieces they once missed, even if it means waiting. Most are spending upward of 300,000 RMB ($42,000).” Rolex’s appeal lies in equal parts rational calculation and emotional identification. Its reputation as hard currency makes it a wearable investment, attracting women with financial acumen who see watches as both self-indulgence and asset allocation. At the same time, its gender-neutral marketing has set a benchmark. In Rolex campaigns, men and women appear equally, but the focus is on shared values: achievement, excellence, precision, endurance, legacy. Wearers are portrayed not through gendered tropes but as figures of success. “That narrative gives Rolex a unique pull,” says Mona Qiu, a watch specialist who has worked at Christie’s. “Women don’t feel they're buying a men’s watch to fit into a male world. They’re buying a symbol of success and quality, stripped of gender. That’s what other brands, still leaning on ‘for men’ messaging, are missing.” But inspiration alone doesn’t close a sale. Rational considerations — particularly value retention — remain critical. “Unless the buyer is exceptionally wealthy, resale value is always central,” says Chang. “In uncertain times, clients gravitate toward the 500,000–800,000 RMB ($70,000–$112,000) range. Jewelry at that level may not hold value, but high-end watches do, with potential to appreciate. At the 1 million RMB ($140,000) level, the upside is even greater." For today’s women buyers, especially those with means, value retention is necessary but not sufficient. The logic is clear: first, it must be a smart asset; second, it must be a beloved object that represents them. Only when both converge does it become the right choice. Independent watchmaking gains ground as women seek individuality Chang has also observed that independent watchmaking is becoming a rising favorite among high-end female clients. Unlike mass-produced luxury watches, independent brands — often founded by master watchmakers, or small ateliers — retain complete control over design, development, and production. Defined by uncompromising craftsmanship, radical innovation, and a deeply personal aesthetic, these creations are produced in vanishingly small numbers, sometimes as unique pieces. Prices can reach tens of millions of RMB, justified by their unrepeatable distinctiveness and artistic value. This dovetails with a larger shift toward personalization in luxury watch consumption. Qiu predicts that individuality will become the next growth driver in the women's segment. In the independent sphere, each watch is not merely a timekeeper but a piece of art, carrying its maker's vision and a singular story. For buyers, the appeal lies less in collective symbols of status than in personal expressions of identity. Yet, the field remains overwhelmingly male. Qiu argues that the future will require more women-led independent brands — not only to fill a market gap but to move women’s watches toward genuine differentiation. The women's watch market in this “female lead era” is no longer about technical prowess alone, but values. To truly win her favor, brands must shift from “made for him” to “created for her” — a full rethinking from function to narrative, from design to marketing. Only brands that transform the watch into both an emotional vessel and a declaration of self will carve out an advantage in an increasingly crowded market and secure the next engine of growth.

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From him to her: How watch brands are courting China’s female buyers