Force of fashion: In conversation with Kim Shui

Kim Shui has never followed the rules of conformity; she’s rewritten them, blending cultures and aesthetics into a signature style that speaks to multicultural and intersectional identities. Born in the U.S. to Chinese parents and raised in Rome, her multicultural upbringing gave her a distinctive perspective on identity, heritage, and self-expression. As a designer, she seamlessly blends Eastern and Western influences, transforming traditional craftsmanship into bold, statement-making pieces that celebrate contrasts — softness and strength, modern and traditional, structured yet fluid. Since launching her eponymous brand in New York in 2016, Shui has built a reputation for daring designs that challenge conventions and empower the wearer. Her work explores themes of femininity, duality, and reinvention, often reinterpreting Chinese textiles and techniques in unexpected ways. At the heart of her aesthetic is a commitment to storytelling — one that reflects her own journey of navigating multiple cultures and defying expectations. In this exclusive interview with Jing Daily, Shui shares insights into her inspirations, creative process, and the evolving role of fashion as both a medium of self-expression and a force for change. Jing Daily: Can you share a bit about your journey? What drew you to fashion, and how has your background influenced your creative perspective? Kim Shui: My journey into fashion design is deeply personal, shaped by my mixed cultural background. I was born in the U.S. to Chinese parents and grew up in Rome, Italy, which gave me a unique perspective on identity, heritage, and self-expression. Growing up, my family stood out, and I realized clothing was a powerful way to connect with people and bridge cultures. When I launched my brand in New York, I focused on celebrating my heritage, femininity, and the experience of looking different. My designs transform these aspects into sources of pride and joy. Ultimately, creating my brand was about defying expectations, taking risks, and forging my own path. JD: How did your upbringing shape your creativity? Were there pivotal moments that influenced your passion? KS: Navigating between cultures as a first-generation Chinese-American in Italy shaped my approach to fashion. Clothing became a means of self-expression and empowerment, especially for women. Pivotal moments include visiting fabric markets in Italy with my mother and being surrounded by art and architecture. My school was near the Circo Massimo, and my daily bus ride passed the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. These experiences taught me to embrace contrasts — mixing traditional and modern, softness and strength, East and West. Moving to New York, with its unparalleled energy, also shaped my brand. JD: Your collections explore cultural fusion. How do you balance Eastern and Western influences while maintaining a strong identity? KS: Cultural fusion is central to my design philosophy, reflecting my lived experience — born in the U.S., raised in Italy, and frequently visiting China. Fashion allows me to explore identity and the beauty that emerges when different influences intersect. I incorporate traditional Chinese techniques, fabrics, and motifs in unexpected ways — like using delicate brocades for risqué silhouettes or blending intricate craftsmanship with modern elements. My brand identity remains strong by celebrating contrasts, embracing femininity and strength, and creating designs that feel both personal and universally resonant. My goal is to push boundaries while honoring traditions and sparking new conversations about heritage and self-expression. JD: How does sustainability factor into your design process? What changes do you hope to see in the industry? KS: We optimize production planning and waste reduction by working on a pre-order model, ensuring we produce only what’s needed. We’ve partnered with the same family-run atelier since the beginning, watching them grow and employ more staff. We’re also experimenting with eco-friendly materials, such as mud-dyed silks, a traditional Chinese technique that adds rich texture while being sustainable. I hope the industry moves toward minimizing waste and excess inventory. JD: As a designer known for bold, statement pieces, how do you see fashion evolving in terms of self-expression? KS: Fashion has always been a tool for self-expression, and that will only grow. I see fashion becoming even more personal, allowing people to wear what truly represents them without societal constraints. Bold statement pieces will always have a place because they empower individuality and challenge norms. At the same time, I see a growing blend of self-expression with sustainability, ethics, and social responsibility. People are becoming more conscious of fashion’s impact, and its role is expanding beyond personal style to societal change. Fashion mirrors society — reflecting values, struggles, and celebrations while telling stories and creating space for empowerment. JD: Who or what has been your biggest source of inspiration? Have any collaborations been particularly transformative? KS: The energy of New York, Italy, and my Chinese heritage continuously inspires me. My collaborations with Jordan Brand and Nike, especially designing tunnel looks for WNBA athletes, have been incredibly influential. They changed how I see the intersection of sport and fashion. JD: What challenges have you faced in your career, and how have you overcome them? KS: Starting and growing with limited resources was a major challenge. Balancing creative expression with wearability required a lot of trial and error. Hearing constant ‘nos’ was discouraging, and many people told me my aspirations were unrealistic. Overcoming doubt meant staying focused and pushing forward despite skepticism. JD: How do you stay ahead of trends while maintaining your unique voice? Do you see yourself as a trendsetter or a storyteller? KS: I approach each collection as a story rather than chasing trends. Trends are fleeting — I prefer to stick to our brand DNA. Our customers come to us for what we offer, not for a trend. JD: How do you balance artistic integrity with commercial demands in the luxury industry? KS: Over time, I’ve found a way to stay true to our brand DNA while making wearable pieces. Balancing collections means including a variation of looks that align with our vision and appeal to customers. JD: What’s next for you? Are there any projects or collaborations you’re excited about? KS: I have several upcoming collaborations I’m excited about. I also want to work with artists and designers from other fields — whether visual art or technology — to merge disciplines in fashion. These projects help me grow creatively and stay inspired. I’m exploring new material innovations, especially eco-friendly fabrics, and expanding gender-fluid designs that celebrate individual expression beyond traditional boundaries. I’m also looking to grow our international presence, particularly in Europe and Asia. Jing Daily presents Jing Masterminds — a fortnightly, exclusive interview series profiling today’s most iconic names in art, fashion, commerce and culture. Delving deep into their personal journeys, creative processes, business strategies and societal impacts, the series offers readers an intimate look at the lives and minds shaping our industries.

Force of fashion: In conversation with Kim Shui

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Published March 23, 2025

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Force of fashion: In conversation with Kim Shui