Demna’s Gucci debut: Cinema, family, and the return of drama

What happened Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia unveiled his first collection for Gucci, “La Famiglia,” via a lookbook debuted on the maison’s Instagram account on September 22. The title — Italian for “family” — signaled the brand’s intent to weave its heritage into a contemporary context. Though the maison did not stage a runway show this season in Milan, the label’s presence was unmissable thanks to the arrival of Creative Director Demna. The collection will be available September 25 to October 12 at select Gucci boutiques worldwide, including at Beijing SKP and Shanghai Plaza 66. A private preview for invited guests took place today. Heritage meets contemporary storytelling Opening with the “L’Archetipo Incazzata” travel trunk, adorned with classic monograms, a nod to Gucci’s roots in global travel, the 37 looks traced the brand’s multifaceted aesthetic. The label released a teaser for the short film The Tiger, and premiered the full flick the following day at Milan Fashion Week and in Shanghai. Actors including Demi Moore, Edward Norton, Ed Harris, and Kendall Jenner brought the film’s looks to life on the Milanese red carpet. Numerous stars, and attendees at the VIC and press watch party in Shanghai wore pieces from the “La Famiglia” series, creating a spectacle as dazzling as any runway show. The event blurred the line between cinema and fashion, cementing Gucci’s narrative and creating buzz around Demna. The Jing Take In China, most online reactions were positive, praising Demna’s debut and concluding that Gucci’s sense of drama had returned. On Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote), Boswell (@博斯威尔) called the series “beyond expectations, full of the dramatic tension of House of Gucci,” while 17strokeJoyce (@十七画Joyce) described Demna as the “bad kid finally befitting Gucci’s personality.” As of writing, #GucciLaFamiglia had generated 162,200 views on Xiaohongshu, with commentary critiquing both the debut lookbook and short film. At the Shanghai watch party, many attendees shared their head-to-toe Gucci looks online while tuning into the late-night livestream of the Milan red carpet and premiere. Though Gucci did not stage a physical runway show this season, the brand once again placed itself at the center of conversation through a cinematic narrative. The short film The Tiger revolves around Barbara Gucci, the family matriarch, played by Demi Moore. As head of Gucci International and president of the California branch, Barbara Gucci hosts a birthday dinner for her children, relatives, and a mysterious guest. What begins as a seemingly warm celebration gradually unravels into a psychological storm beneath the polished surface. Barbara’s carefully maintained composure shatters, yet amidst sorrow and chaos, she finds release and a new equilibrium with her family. “If you were in a room with a tiger, what would you do?” — the question posed to Barbara Gucci by her family marks both a narrative turning point and a spiritual metaphor. The tiger represents unpredictable crises, underlying pressure, and the loss of control. As the family’s anchor, Barbara constantly navigates tensions with dignity, while the metaphor nudges viewers toward their own reflection: everyone carries a tiger, whether responsibility, anxiety, societal expectation, or familial ties. Through this provocation, Demna blurs the line between story and reality, letting the clothing and the narrative share the emotional load. Demna’s dialogue with Gucci’s past This is the genius of Demna’s storytelling: he does more than design clothes — he crafts characters. In his first Gucci collection, he does not rush to erase the past; instead, he initiates a dialogue with it. Sleek V-neck jumpsuits recall the boldness of the Tom Ford era, vintage floral dresses carry the romantic brushstrokes of Alessandro Michele, and Demna’s own signature structural language quietly asserts itself. Each character is named and given life through a portrait-like visual approach, transforming garments from silent objects into active participants in the story. When the story is imbued with soul, the clothing transcends commodity to become a vessel of emotion and identity. In The Tiger, the characters’ struggle, release, and growth resonate with the clothing’s stylistic language, quietly bridging the psychological distance between brand and audience. Yet, cinema is only the overture; the market remains the final act. The designer’s debut collection comes at a critical juncture for both Gucci and parent company Kering. In H1 2025, Gucci’s revenue fell 25% YoY on a comparable basis to 3.0 billion euros ($3.5 billion), contributing to Kering’s overall 15% revenue decline to 7.6 billion euros ($8.9 billion). Gucci’s recurring operating margin dropped to 16.0%, down 8.7 percentage points compared to 2024. However, there are early signs of momentum: Gucci's new leather goods lines have performed well, with the Giglio bag from the Cruise 2026 collection already establishing itself as one of the house's most successful recent launches. Demna has successfully fired the opening salvo of awareness, but the true test lies ahead. Whether the new Gucci can drive sales will ultimately determine the success of the Demna era. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

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Demna’s Gucci debut: Cinema, family, and the return of drama