China’s take on Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe exit and potential Dior role

What happened Jonathan Anderson announced his departure as creative director of Loewe yesterday, concluding an 11-year tenure that transformed the Spanish luxury brand into a global fashion powerhouse. The news quickly gained traction on Chinese social media, with the Weibo hashtag “LoeweCreativeDirectorDeparts” (#Loewe创意总监离任) amassing 6.75 million views and sparking widespread discussion among fashion enthusiasts. Anderson’s transformative impact on Loewe Anderson’s journey with Loewe began in 2013, when he took the helm of the then-traditional leather goods house. His visionary approach melded classic craftsmanship with contemporary design, leading to the creation of iconic products like the Puzzle bag, which turned 10 this year. Under his leadership, Loewe’s annual revenue surged from under 300 million euros ($3.28 million) in 2013 to 810 million euros ($8.85 million) in 2023, edging closer to the 1 billion euros ($1.1 billion) mark. The Jing Take The Chinese fashion community reacted swiftly to the news of Anderson’s departure. @FashionModels, a prominent Weibo fashion blogger, reflected on his decade-long contribution: “From 2015 to his departure today, over 10 years, we’ve witnessed countless brilliant designs from him.” Another Weibo user, Yourantianqing (@悠然天青), commented, “Because of him, Loewe became one of the most anticipated shows each season.” @YamalPlanet added, “My favorite designer and brand over the past decade …” Speculation about Anderson’s next move has been rife. Reports suggest he may succeed Kim Jones as creative director of Dior's menswear line, with potential oversight of both men’s and women’s collections. This prospect has excited many in the fashion community. Weibo user Wangyingjun (@9785王婴俊) commented, “Go save Dior.” @FashionModels expressed enthusiasm, saying, “If the rumors are true, that would be fantastic!” Loewe’s potential new creative direction As for Loewe’s future, the brand faces the challenge of maintaining the momentum and identity cultivated under Anderson’s guidance. Industry insiders speculate that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the design duo behind Proenza Schouler who recently stepped down from their roles, are potential candidates to succeed Anderson. Anderson’s departure marks the end of a transformative chapter for Loewe. His ability to fuse traditional craftsmanship with avant-garde design not only revitalized the brand, but also set new benchmarks in the luxury fashion industry. The enthusiastic response from Chinese netizens reflects Anderson's global influence, and the deep connection he has fostered with fashion aficionados. Should luxury houses keep creative directors longer? But his exit also raises questions about the luxury industry’s frequent creative director changes. Anderson’s 11-year tenure at Loewe is an anomaly in an industry where top designers rarely stay beyond five or six years. The industry norm of revolving creative heads often fuels excitement, but can also destabilize brand identity. Loewe has thrived under Anderson, with consistent commercial success, critical acclaim, and a strong creative signature. So, why change direction now? Does it still make sense for luxury maisons to swap out creative leads every few years, even when a brand is performing well? The benefits of creative stability in luxury A prolonged tenure enables designers to build and reinforce a legacy, establishing an aesthetic vision and a deeper connection with consumers. Anderson’s work at Loewe demonstrates the benefits of long-term creative leadership: a stable design language, strong brand storytelling, and a dedicated customer base. As luxury houses navigate an era of rapid trend cycles and consumer-driven shifts, the industry may need to reconsider whether frequent creative director turnovers are truly beneficial — or if stability, when done right, leads to enduring success. Looking ahead, Loewe’s trajectory will largely depend on its next creative leader. The potential appointment of McCollough and Hernandez could introduce fresh perspectives while honoring the brand’s legacy. Simultaneously, Anderson’s rumored move to Dior positions him to further imprint his visionary approach on another iconic fashion house. These developments signify a dynamic period in the fashion industry, with shifts that could redefine luxury fashion narratives in the coming years. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

‘Go save Dior’: China debates Anderson’s Loewe exit

Upgrade to Pro

Sectors

Insights

Company

‘Go save Dior’: China debates Anderson’s Loewe exit