China’s solid perfume boom signals a new era of intimate scent

“Perfume is a personal label in China. Scented balm is a second skin,” says perfume blogger Yanyanyan de Xiangshui (@砚砚砚的香水) from Hangzhou. His posts — alongside many others on lifestyle platform Xiaohongshu (RedNote) — reflect China’s growing fascination with perfume balms or xiang gao (香膏), a fragrance format rooted in tradition and now being reimagined for today’s consumers. Sales of solid fragrances in China soared 541% in 2025, according to Daxue Consulting. Collectible designs infused with Chinese aesthetics — combined with portability and discreet application — are fueling a new subculture of scent enthusiasts. Yet the data signals more than shifting consumer preferences. It underscores China’s role in shaping an alternative “scent etiquette,” one influenced by the country’s heritage fragrance traditions, dense urban environments, and a rising emphasis on self-care and emotional well-being rather than outward projection. From To Summer’s bestselling solid perfumes to fan-shaped collections inspired by the Forbidden City, domestic brands are driving innovation in this format. Their momentum parallels renewed experimentation in incense perfumery, as brands reinterpret centuries-old scent rituals through contemporary design. “Both formats prioritize ritual over projection,” argues Shiyue Lou, fragrance brand strategist for Chinese perfume brand L’Atelier Möbius. “They respond to a behavioral shift in which fragrance is used less as a social token but more as a tool for emotional support.” Redefining scent etiquette in China While the resurgence of incense is closely tied to a broader revival of Chinese cultural heritage, solid fragrances align more strongly with the rise of self-care narratives, Lou adds. Applied discreetly and experienced primarily by the wearer, they offer a private sensorial experience rather than a performative statement. Global interest in solid perfume is rising too. A report by trend-forecasting platform Spate shows the category grew 174.6% year-on-year in 2025, based on Google searches and posts on TikTok and Instagram. However, the growth must be contextualized. Solid fragrances are expanding from a relatively small base in Western markets, indicating steady interest rather than full mainstream adoption, notes Pierre Vouard, founder of PJV Advisory and adjunct professor of fragrance innovation at the Fashion Institute of Technology. More significant is the repositioning of the format itself. Solids are increasingly framed as skin-close scent experiences that allow for discreet reapplication in shared spaces such as offices and restaurants — a practical fit for contemporary lifestyles. “The deeper driver is cultural,” Vouard explains. “The fragrance market today behaves like a barbell: on one end are highly projecting scents designed for presence; on the other, intimate fragrances that stay close to the body. Both extremes are growing because they meet different emotional needs.” From ancient aromatic balms to modern compacts Solid perfumes are far from a new invention. Several heritage and niche brands experimented with the format long before the current surge. Diptyque and Le Labo have offered solid fragrances for years, while Lush popularized accessible balm formats at entry price points. Historically, aromatic balms made from myrrh, olive oil, and spices were used in ancient Egypt for both daily grooming and embalming rituals over 4,000 years ago. The Greeks and Romans later refined the practice, applying scented waxes liberally to skin and hair. During the Middle Ages, pomanders — waxy perfumed pastes composed of musk, ambergris, or civet — were worn to mask unpleasant odors and ward off disease. By the 16th century, fragrant gloves and perfumed leather goods had become fashionable among European aristocracy, laying the groundwork for heritage fragrance houses such as Creed. Alcohol-free perfumery also has deep roots in the Middle East, where oil-based scents and attars have long been worn directly on the skin. In many ways, today’s renewed interest in solids reconnects fragrance with these older traditions of intimate application, says Annabelle Baker, founder of Born Bold and former director at Lush. Layering, portability, discovery: Usage habits fuel growth What has changed is how consumers engage with scent. “People are increasingly building fragrance wardrobes rather than relying on a single signature scent,” Baker says. “Once that behavior shifts, smaller formats that are portable and easy to apply become much more relevant.” Vouard agrees, adding that solid perfumes reinforce fragrance as something personal and grounding rather than purely performative. They can also support the “beast mode” trend through layering: used as a base beneath a spray, these products help intensify projection and extend longevity. “That flexibility helps explain the growth,” he says. “The same format can support two very different fragrance behaviors depending on how it is used.” There is also a practical dimension linked to price and discovery. For consumers experimenting with multiple scents, solid and mini formats offer lower-commitment entry points compared with full bottles. “The growth we’re seeing isn’t really about a new invention,” argues Baker. “It’s about the format finally aligning with how people now consume fragrance.” Why China is uniquely positioned to lead the solid fragrance boom In China, the shift is particularly pronounced. While bold olfactory statements still resonate, many fragrance users are gravitating toward subtler, socially unobtrusive scent signatures that signal quiet confidence and emotional balance. Amid economic headwinds and rising daily pressures, the Western fragrance narrative of bold self-expression feels less aligned with people’s reality, suggests Shiyue Lou, a fragrance brand strategy consultant. “Today, many young consumers are seeking simplicity, comfort, and psychological safety,” she explains. “Rituals such as burning incense or applying perfume balm become soothing, enjoyable moments of pause in a busy day.” At the same time, younger generations are increasingly comfortable embracing aesthetics rooted in their own cultural context. A long tradition of portable scent objects — often connected to traditional Chinese medicine and personal adornment — underpins the current boom in solid fragrance. In her book Scents of China, historian Huang Xuelei describes how, alongside incense burned in the perfume halls and studies of Ming- and Qing-dynasty elites, scented trinkets and accessories played a key role in everyday fragrance culture. Perfumed sachets (xiang nang 香囊), prayer beads, fans, face powders, and even scented stationery infused the air with subtle aromas. Scented amulets (xiang pai 香牌), molded from aromatic powders mixed with binding agents, were commonly worn as jewelry or attached to garments. Traditional perfume balms, made from natural waxes and essential oils and often featuring calming ingredients such as sandalwood, jasmine, and agarwood, are direct precursors to today’s solid formats. A solid future ahead The tradition of combining personal fragrances with herbal medicine and cultural accessories informs many of China’s current bestselling solid products. This includes To Summer’s botanic-essence solid perfumes, subtly designed and engraved with Chinese characters to enhance mood; the ornate fan-shaped solid perfume collection of the Forbidden City; and everything in between. While China leads growth in the Asia Pacific region, the format is also gaining traction in Japan and South Korea, according to Verified Market Research (VMR) data. The regional solid perfume market is projected to expand at a compound annual growth rate of more than 9.5% through 2030. Globally, the market was valued at $1.42 billion in 2024 and is expected to reach $2.56 billion by 2032, growing 11.3% over the next five years. In Western markets, many maisons have yet to introduce original solid formats, but experimentation is increasing. Dior is expanding its solid fragrance portfolio, while brands such as Sol de Janeiro and Noyz are exploring balm and stick applications. “Solid perfumes are increasingly designed to feel fun, approachable, and a little whimsical,” says Vouard. “Brands are borrowing the codes of other beauty categories to make fragrance more playful.” Dior’s Miss Dior solid sticks draw inspiration from lipstick packaging, while Chanel’s Chance fragrance crayons transform scent into colorful, purse-friendly pencils — formats that encourage experimentation. Vouard notes that solid perfumes are increasingly treated as collectible objects, with refillable compacts, decorative cases, and collectible packaging turning them into accessories people enjoy carrying and using. This emphasis on design and ritual mirrors broader market dynamics, where innovation and refinement are key drivers. Looking ahead, Lou believes China will remain a formidable force in shaping the segment’s future. “Intense domestic competition drives constant refinement, from safer incense formulations to improved balm textures and higher-quality ingredients. Consumers are perpetually searching for added value.” Antoaneta Becker is the director for consumer economy at the China-Britain Business Council. She is a China brand strategist, working with fragrance, beauty and luxury brands to support their entry and growth in the most dynamic consumer market.

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China’s solid perfume boom signals a new era of intimate scent