Phoebe Philo’s China debut threatens Lemaire and The Row

What happened On July 31, English fashion label Phoebe Philo announced its long-anticipated entry into mainland China through physical wholesale retail. Beginning September, Collection C — comprising ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, and accessories – will be rolled out at select multibrand retailers including B10CK, Dongliang, Dover Street Market, Lane Crawford, and SND. Collection D is expected to follow early 2026. Since its October 2023 launch, Phoebe Philo has largely relied on its DTC e-commerce platform, offering meticulously curated “Edits” and later, full seasonal collections. The business’ brick-and-mortar debut came in April 2024 at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, followed by rapid global wholesale expansion in Milan, London, Los Angeles, Paris, Tokyo, Sydney, and Seoul. Mainland China marks a significant milestone in that trajectory. The Jing Take Phoebe Philo’s entrance into Mainland China comes amid sluggish luxury sales growth, but the designer’s cult following remains anything but dormant. The brand’s quiet, deliberate strategy contrasts with the flashier growth playbooks of competitors, and has clearly resonated with Chinese style insiders. On Weibo, anticipation is palpable. “If I were a rich second-generation, I’d wear Phoebe Philo everyday,” posts user @richyyyyybbbbbb, echoing the aspirational status the brand enjoys. Fashion blogger Mars (@Mars只想退休) adds, “When it comes to bags, Phoebe Philo has always been the best of the best.” Meanwhile, Dipsy (@Dipsy迪西) praises Collection D’s precision: “It’s sharp yet luxurious. Those sculptural leather pieces are insanely chic.” The Row, Toteme and Lemaire compete ‘quiet luxury’ consumers Despite its reverent fanbase, Phoebe Philo now faces a very different competitive landscape than during the “Old Céline” era (she was creative director from 2008 to 2017). Labels like The Row, Toteme, Lemaire, and Jil Sander have aggressively expanded in China, establishing standalone stores and premium retail experiences. Notably, The Row, often seen as Phoebe Philo’s closest minimalist rival, has already partnered with B10CK and launched VIC salons and private consultations. Still, the recent roll out of Collection D, which debuted to acclaim for its bold silhouettes and sculptural wool pieces, has reignited enthusiasm. As Weibo user ModeZine (@MZ-ModeZine) says, “Philo has been steadily delivering — the new collection is wearable and beautiful. The queen still reigns.” As the brand continues to scale its retail network and deepen its international footprint, the China launch will be closely watched as a key test market for performance, localization strategy, and long-term consumer engagement. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

Can Phoebe Philo’s offline rollout make noise in China?

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Can Phoebe Philo’s offline rollout make noise in China?