Bespoke Fashion Has Second Coming In Shanghai

Louis Vuitton, Dunhill, Ermenegildo Zegna, Fendi Join Domestic Tailors In Offering Bespoke Services At Shanghai Boutiques In Shanghai's 1930s heyday, around the time it developed a reputation as the decadent "Paris of the East," the city was renowned for its skillful Chinese tailors, many of whom fled overseas or to Hong Kong in the wake of the 1949 establishment of the PRC. In the following decades, these Shanghai tailors, transplanted in Hong Kong and elsewhere, continued to ply their trades as traditional tailoring took a several decade-long hiatus in the mainland. Following China's economic reforms of the late 1970s, and the rapid growth of its luxury market, however, demand for expert tailors skyrocketed as many wealthy individuals became disappointed with the ready-to-wear options available even in top-tier cities. Driven by demand, bespoke fashion has only become more popular in the last 10-20 years, particularly at the higher end, and the world's top luxury brands have taken notice. Recently, Louis Vuitton launched Atelier, the company's first designer's workshop anywhere in the world, in its flagship store in Shanghai's Plaza 66, and brands like Dunhill, Zegna and Fendi, also offer bespoke services at their key China locations. And this isn't limited to foreign brands -- Hong Kong brand Shanghai Tang offers bespoke tailoring services as well, as a part of its "Mandarin Collar Society." Recently, China Daily profiled one Hong Kong tailor who returned to his grandfather's hometown of Shanghai to continue the family business, saying that the demand in major mainland cities for haute couture is growing rapidly: "Shanghai is getting closer to being a city that wears the most updated fashion styles," said Kay Junior. "However, Hong Kong, as a metropolitan with a longer history in the fashion industry, is still one step ahead. We are working to narrow this gap." As Shanghai Daily points out, both men and women in China have a strong interest in bespoke clothing and accessories from international and domestic Chinese fashion houses, which we've noticed before could be a major opportunity for startup Chinese luxury fashion houses in coming years: A generous selection of more than 250 of the finest British and Italian clothes are on offer as part of the Alfred Dunhill Custom tailoring program available in the British men's fashion retailer's Shanghai home on Huaihai Road M. Clients can create a suit, jacket, trousers and shirt designed according to their own desires. For example, custom-made shirts are available in a choice of nine collars, five cuffs, two pockets and a variety of front and back options. It is also designed with the wearer's every need taken into consideration. Moreover, the option of monogramed initials on the shirt is available. Some other men's fashion houses have also come to realize the growing need of tailored clothing for their customers. Italian leading men's fashion brand Pal Zileri, for example, has introduced a made-to-measure service to China for the first time in its newly opened flagship store in Shanghai Citic Square. Local designer Hu Min founded Tangyun Hongxiu, a salon-style fashion boutique, two years ago with the ambition to create China's own haute couture brand that blends traditional Chinese elements with Western cutting and design. Tangyun Hongxiu provides all-around bespoke services, from offering advice, choosing fabrics and designing patterns to measuring sizes and making adjustments according to women's needs. The clothes, ranging from formal wear and cocktail dresses to evening gowns, are made of high-quality fabrics including fine Chinese silks and imported materials from Europe. High-end bespoke fashion is not limited to Shanghai or Hong Kong, either. As we wrote last year, luxury bespoke tailors can be found in Dalian, Beijing, and Hangzhou, though most decent-sized Chinese cities should have a handful of experienced tailors with access to top-quality materials.

Bespoke Fashion Has Second Coming In Shanghai

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Published January 22, 2010

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Bespoke Fashion Has Second Coming In Shanghai