Asia: The next sole superpower

As the fashion world looks east for its next wave of inspiration, Asia is not just influencing trends — it’s designing them. For Spring 2025, the spotlight is on striking contrasts: delicate “balletcore” collides with utilitarian streetwear, and exaggerated, cartoon-like soles turn comfort into high fashion. Leading this shift are two standout silhouettes capturing imaginations (and appearing in wardrobes) worldwide — the “sneakerina” and the super-chunky shoe. The sneakerina, also known as the ballet sneaker, fuses the grace of a ballet flat with the performance edge of a trainer. From designers like Kiko Kostadinov for Marc Jacobs and Simone Rocha, to more accessible brands like JW Pei, the style is everywhere — and from designers to street style, Asia leads the way. “We initially predicted that the sporty Mary-Jane style would gain traction in early 2024,” Lucila Saldana, Footwear and Accessories Strategist at trend forecaster WGSN tells Jing Daily. “Watch out for demand growth in laceless sneakers as these options are becoming more trend-focused, yet are easy to wear and adaptable. “It’s a style that is already proving popular, particularly in Japan and South Korea. We now see it becoming more commercialized and evolving into different variations, with many creative collaborations tapping into the trend, which is gaining wider market acceptance and attracting more consumer interest as a result.” The rise of the ballet sneaker (aka the ‘sneakerina’) Indeed, collaborations have been a hallmark of the ballet pump-sneaker hybrid movement. Chinese American designer Sandy Liang, is credited with redefining the style via her Salomon partnership. On Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote), where fans have recently been showing their styling of the ribboned sneakers, #SandyLiang has 2.8 million reads. While Adidas has revived its Y2K Taekwondo Mei shoe from the noughties. First released in 2003, it debuted as a low-profile women’s training shoe featuring a split outsole and a perforated tongue. Before the launch of the Y-3 collaboration, Yohji Yamamoto reimagined this silhouette to develop the Adidas YY Mei Brocade. Another Asian “sneakerina” protagonist is JW Pei, the LA-based brand founded by mainland China’s Yang Pei and Hong Kong’s Stephanie Li, which has made waves with styles like the pink satin “Flavia” and utilitarian suede “Caitlin,” both ballet-inspired but tailored for the modern streetwear set. Global demand reflects this cultural influence. According to Depop, searches for “ballet shoe trainers” and “ballet sneakers” have skyrocketed. Debuting in 2022 and made viral by TikTok, Miu Miu’s ballet flats were crowned product of the year by Lyst in 2022, which initially set pace for the trend’s evolution over the ensuing three years. London-based Taiwanese stylist Lyla Cheng says the surge of “ballet-core” trends across APAC and the West is down to K-pop girl group Blackpink. “Along with quiet luxury trends where consumers are wearing not so loud items, I think that the sporty ballet pump was popularized most through (Blackpink members) Rosé and Jennie,” she says. Puma named Rosé as its Sportstyle ambassador in summer last year, part of the brand’s push into fashion-forward territory. Its trending Speedcat sneaker has since been reimagined as a ballet pump, launched in March this year. Cartoon silhouettes take center stage But it’s not all dainty bows and satin straps. “Chunkier silhouettes are still going strong,” says J’Nae Phillips, culture writer and trend analyst behind newsletter Fashion Tingz. “Especially styles with exaggerated soles and utilitarian details.” That includes the futuristic, bubble-like aesthetics seen in Marni and Hoka’s recently trending “kawaii-esque” sneakers. Transferring the ultra-oversized style spotted on the streets of Tokyo through the 1990s and early noughties, the launch marked running brand Hoka’s debut foray into fashion. “Comfort and the need for reassurance are the main drivers of the chunky trend,” says WGSN’s Saldana. “Sensory finishes, like bubbly soles that evoke comfort, lightness, and curiosity, are in. AI design is contributing to this trend, too, as it increasingly influences IRL footwear.” Another recent, cartoonishly chunky footwear release comes courtesy of Chinese label 8on8 and Japanese brand Grounds. The bubble-like platform sneakers look AI-inspired with unusually giant soles that create a piece of art rather than simply shoes. But Asia’s impact goes beyond design. Chinese sportswear brands like Anta and Li-Ning are making big commercial waves. Anta, powered by Kyrie Irving’s signature Kai 1 sneaker, saw a jaw-dropping 1,901% trade growth YoY on StockX in 2024. Meanwhile, Li-Ning — boosted by Dwayne Wade’s collection — achieved 113% sales growth in 2024. “Asian fashion trends, especially from China, South Korea, and Japan, are having a real moment globally,” says Phillips. “The way Gen Z in Asia blends streetwear with high fashion and comfort has definitely shaped what we’re seeing on international runways and in mainstream brands.” With Asia setting the pace, the rest of the world is following suit. Whether it’s the romantic sheen of a ballet sneaker, or the bold, blown-out silhouette of a kawaii-inspired platform, Asia’s footprint on 2025 fashion is impossible to miss.

Asia: The next sole superpower

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Published April 14, 2025

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Asia: The next sole superpower