Will more ‘eco-friendly’ luxury watches catch on in China?

As the global luxury industry works to trumpet its rising environmental consciousness, the otherwise highly traditional Swiss watchmaking industry is starting to make significant strides in sustainability, led by brands such as Geneva-based startup ID Genève. Founded in 2020, ID Genève has made headlines for its innovative use of environmentally friendly materials, such as plant-based leather and recycled stainless steel, in crafting luxury timepieces. Nicolas Freudiger, Cedric Mulhauser, and Singal Depery Moesch co-founded ID Genève with a commitment to a circular production approach, eschewing traditional luxury materials for more sustainable alternatives. Their efforts have not gone unnoticed, drawing attention from high-profile investors like Leonardo DiCaprio. The brand’s flagship model Circular 1 (currently sold-out), starts at CHF 3,500 (US$3,971) and exemplifies ID Genève’s stated commitment to sustainability, utilizing stainless steel recycled from medical materials and watch manufacturing scraps. Additionally, the wrist straps are made from grape marc and vegetal leather derived from green waste, showcasing the brand’s dedication to minimizing its environmental impact. With packaging made from compostable materials, ID Genève’s approach hints at the potential for luxury and sustainability to more seamlessly coexist, even in a segment as conservative as Swiss luxury watches. Eco-friendly movement Fully sustainable luxury watch brands in the vein of ID Genève remain niche at the moment, with relatively low production volume and a small but dedicated consumer base. However, it is clear that the luxury watchmaking industry — with its increasing focus on tapping younger consumers in key markets like the US and China — is on the verge of a transformation. The industry’s shift towards sustainability is evident in the adoption of eco-friendly materials and support for conservation initiatives. Brands like Panerai and Omega are leading the way by utilizing materials such as EcoTitanium and recycled stainless steel, signaling a commitment to minimizing environmental impact. Beyond material innovation, luxury watchmakers are aligning with global conservation efforts, as seen in TAG Heuer’s partnership with the World Surf League and IWC’s dedication to preserving the Galapagos Islands’ unique ecosystem. Moreover, the industry’s embrace of clean manufacturing processes and sustainable packaging solutions underscores a holistic approach to environmental responsibility. IWC Schaffhausen’s use of renewable energy sources and Breitling’s innovative, fully recyclable packaging are prime examples of how the sector is reimagining its operational footprint. Collaboration within the industry is also key to driving sustainability forward. Initiatives like the Responsible Jewellery Council’s (RJC) Chain-of-Custody Certification demonstrate a collective commitment to ethical sourcing and responsible production practices. This collaborative spirit is further exemplified by brands like Chopard, which has achieved RJC certification and actively supports the World Wildlife Fund’s conservation efforts. Rising global consciousness This move towards sustainability in luxury watchmaking comes at a time when global consciousness about environmental issues is at an all-time high, particularly among younger generations. As noted in Jing Daily’s recent report, “Hard Luxury: The new Chinese consumer,” younger millennial and Gen Z consumers in China now demand more from brands, prioritizing ethical production methods. Surveys indicate a growing preference for sustainably sourced products, with a significant portion of consumers willing to pay a premium for such items. In China, the response to sustainable luxury is mixed yet promising. A survey by consulting firm OC&C found that 25 percent of Gen Zers in China prioritize environmentally friendly consumption, nearly double the global average. However, this interest is highly segmented, with particular emphasis on industries like food and beverage and beauty and skincare, which have faced product safety controversies. Nonetheless, luxury brands are responding to these demands by highlighting their use of recycled materials and efforts to reduce their carbon footprint. Consulting firm OC&C found that 25 percent of Gen Zers in China prioritize environmentally friendly consumption, nearly double the global average. Sustainable watchmakers to keep an eye on in 2024 ID Genève: Four-year-old ID Genève stands apart with its commitment to circular production and use of compostable packaging, with its watches sitting firmly in the entry- to mid-level of the luxury watch market. Boasting Leonardo DiCaprio as an investor, ID Geneve symbolizes the future of eco-friendly luxury watchmaking. William Wood: London-based William Wood uniquely combines sustainability with firefighting heritage, creating stainless steel automatic diving watches that feature a vintage fire bell seconds hand, a fire engine pattern seconds track, and a crown crafted from a century-old British brass firefighter’s helmet. Straps made from upcycled fire hoses and presentation in a genuine Italian leather, fire hose-inspired travel roll underscore the brand’s dedication to repurposing materials with historical significance. TRIWA: Founded in 2007 in Stockholm, TRIWA (Transforming the Industry of Watches) aspires to transform watches into modern statement pieces that reflect pressing societal issues. Their commitment to innovation is evident in their work with sustainable materials and collaborations with organizations focused on social betterment. TRIWA’s Time for Peace collection transforms metal from melted-down illegal firearms confiscated in conflict zones into watches, with the company donating 15 percent of sales from these watches to support victims of armed violence. 2 Degrees East: 2 Degrees East, based in Hong Kong, is focused on creating sustainable watches that fit the capsule wardrobe idea. Founder Sally Lim emphasizes quality over quantity, offering watches with interchangeable straps made from recycled plastic and movements by Miyota. The brand’s approach to small-batch production underscores its dedication to reducing overproduction and waste. Original Grain: Hailing from San Diego, consumer-focused Original Grain has made a name for itself by crafting watches from reclaimed wood and other recycled materials. The Beltran brothers’ brand combines sustainability with style, offering watches in the "sweet spot" price range of $250–$500. Its commitment to moving production to the US and reducing its carbon footprint further highlights its dedication to sustainability. Solios: Montreal’s Solios aims to change consumption habits with its solar-powered dress watches. Founders Samuel Leroux and Alexandre Desabrais are focused on creating slim, elegant timepieces from recycled and repurposed materials. Achieving B Corp certification, Solios represents a blend of innovation and environmental stewardship in the luxury watch sector.

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Will more ‘eco-friendly’ luxury watches catch on in China?