Did Ugg undo years of brand building in China?

What happened On March 13, Ugg released a campaign featuring Hanni, a member of the K-pop girl group NewJeans and the brand’s global ambassador. Intended to reinforce the brand’s youthful image, the ad drew criticism for what many saw as the objectification of women. From the opening shot of Hanni lying on the floor to a party scene where she and her friends are granted entry only after being scrutinized by a male bouncer, the ad revealed a common blind spot in brand storytelling: the desire to look trendy while overlooking how attuned audiences have become to issues of gender representation. The video has garnered over 5,900 comments on Douyin (China’s version of TikTok), with many viewers expressing discomfort over what they described as sexually suggestive imagery. Others pushed back, arguing that the public reaction was overly sensitive and that the ad was being misinterpreted. Ugg’s response, limited to a customer service note stating that feedback had been “recorded and reported,” did little to quell the backlash. With no public clarification or official statement, many saw the brand’s silence as indifference — some commenters even questioned why the ad remained online. The Jing Take Ugg officially entered the Chinese market in 2008, at a time when local consumers were embracing international brands on a large scale. Social media was still in its infancy, and influencer marketing as we know it today had yet to take shape. Still, one silhouette quietly dominated winter sidewalks: the Ugg boot. With its plush sheepskin lining, rounded toe, and unpretentious bulk, it quickly became a seasonal staple. In an era when “what celebrities wore” set the tone for what everyone else was doing, Ugg didn’t just follow the trend — it became the trend. For many young women, especially those born in the 1990s, the brand symbolized the fusion of comfort and cool. From icon to outdated: Ugg struggles to stay relevant But even icons fall out of favor. By the mid-2010s, fashion’s pendulum swung toward sleeker, more minimalist aesthetics. The once-ubiquitous Ugg began to look outdated. What was once “effortlessly cool” started to read as bulky, awkward, and even “auntie-core,” as younger consumers joked. Meanwhile, the brand struggled to evolve. Its design updates failed to keep pace with changing trends, and its social media presence felt out of touch. To make matters worse, the market became flooded with knockoffs, eroding Ugg’s once-premium image. By 2017, as sales slowed, rumors began circulating that its parent company, Deckers, was considering a sale. Ugg’s quiet comeback However, Ugg has quietly reinvented itself in recent years. No longer seen as just a chunky snow boot for suburban winters, the brand has shed its reputation for bulk and blandness, repositioning itself as more diverse, youth-driven, and fashion-forward. Alongside its classic offerings, Ugg has expanded its product line with a clear focus on aesthetic relevance. The Tasman and Tazz collections — with their slipper-inspired silhouettes and platform soles — have become emblems of “effortless chic” and surfacing repeatedly in OOTD (Outfit of the Day) posts across social media. The Tazz, in particular, with its elevated sole, taps into the “elongated silhouette” trend favored by many Chinese Gen Z consumers. Ugg has also worked to expand beyond its winter roots, venturing into spring and summer categories with sandals, mules, and fuzzy slides. Blending playful design with tactile comfort, these pieces have gained traction in both home and streetwear settings. Some newer models lean into lighter color palettes and versatile styling — speaking directly to China’s Gen Z, for whom “relaxed dressing” is both an aesthetic and a mindset. Winning China through collabs, celebrity clout To deepen its presence in the Chinese market, Ugg has launched exclusive regional designs and collaborated with local designers. These initiatives have helped refresh the brand’s image while enhancing cultural relevance. Notably, four capsule collections with designer Feng Chen Wang have infused Ugg with a bolder, more avant-garde sensibility, sending a clear message to the market: we understand youth. In late 2023, Ugg opened its first flagship store in Shanghai — an immersive space designed to bring consumers closer to the brand’s evolving identity. By March 2024, it had tapped into the power of K-pop, naming NewJeans member Hanni as its global ambassador — a clear play for Gen Z visibility. Much of Ugg’s cultural cachet today can be credited to style icons who’ve revived the brand in the public eye. Supermodels like Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Kaia Gerber have been frequently spotted in Ugg’s newer silhouettes, transforming what was once deemed “uncool” into an It-girl essential. A street-style shot of Bella pairing black shorts with Ugg’s platform mini boots went viral across TikTok and Xiaohongshu (RedNote), quickly becoming a template for casual, stylish winter looks. Strong sales, but at what cost? The numbers, too, support the brand’s return. According to Deckers Brands’ Q3 fiscal report from January 2025, Ugg’s global net sales rose 16.1% year-over-year, climbing from $1.07 billion to $1.24 billion. “UGG continues to see strong demand from full-price consumers around the world,” said CEO Stefano Caroti. But solid numbers don’t exempt a brand from deeper scrutiny. Ugg’s recent controversy over its Hanni ad serves as a reminder: advertising today is never just about a product — it reflects a brand’s cultural posture. A single misstep in tone or imagery can undermine long-term trust. In an era of heightened gender awareness, even subtle cues that are perceived as objectifying can provoke fierce backlash. And when brands respond with silence or vagueness, they risk being seen as tone-deaf — or worse, indifferent. In China’s value-conscious market, it’s not just about a well-designed product, but about feeling seen and respected. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

Did Ugg undo years of brand building in China?

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Published April 10, 2025

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Did Ugg undo years of brand building in China?