Once the underdog, New York Fashion Week is beating allegations of not living up to its European equivalents with verve. Tory Burch, which is undergoing a “Toryssaince,” outliers such as Willy Chavarria and Luar, and downtown darlings like Sandy Liang are all partly to thank for the city’s new sheen.
The Fall/Winter 2024 calendar was no different. From humorist Area’s pointedly literal take on the phrase “all eyes on me” to Peter Do’s poignant sophomore collection at the helm of Helmut Lang, New York’s fashion scene glimmered — or was that just the reflection from Beyoncé’s sequin-dripped suit on Tuesday evening?
Online buzz still plays a role in determining a collection’s success, but spectacles were markedly few and far between. Instead, designers opted to let their technical skills speak for themselves.
Jing Daily rounds up the highlights of the week below.
Luar#
As an indie brand with a cult following and a relative newcomer to the NYFW scene, 2023 LVMH Prize finalist Luar has, for the most part, maintained its title as an IYKYK label rooted in the underground universe of queer ballroom culture. That was until Tuesday evening, when it cracked mass cultural consciousness thanks to the attendance of one unexpected FROW-er: Beyoncé.
Beyoncé’s presence may have given the show a big boost, but founder Raul Lopez’s clothes have already been gaining recognition over recent seasons. This time around, Lopez focused on exploring the resurgence of the metrosexual, a term coined to describe the well-groomed, well-dressed straight man (think of the recent rise in “babygirl men” or David Beckham in the early noughties). Leather, mammoth fur mittens, and over-exaggerated shoulder pads were out in full force, all getting the Beyoncé nod of approval.
Michael Kors#
Timelessness was the theme of Michael Kors’ Fall/Winter 2024 runway show, which took place at the former Barneys flagship store in Chelsea, New York. Set to a soundtrack featuring native New York icons including Alicia Keys and Bobby Short, Michael Kors looked back to the languid bygone times of the 1930s and the cool, collected 1990s. This was manifested in laid-back tailored blazers, cappuccino lace slip gowns, capacious totes, and models draped in big fur coats (a nod to the mob wife aesthetic).
This season saw some of the city’s most prominent veteran designers and new disruptors, such as Willy Chavarria, put their own spin on Americana dressing.
Tommy Hilfiger#
For Tommy Hilfiger, fashion week isn’t just about sending clothes down the runway; it’s about putting on a show. That’s exactly what the all-American label did this season. After a brief stint away from the fashion week calendar, Hilfiger’s homecoming ceremony invited guests into Grand Central Station’s Grand Central Oyster Bar, where they were immersed in the brand’s quintessentially preppy, patriotic world.
While the show opted for a more toned-down affair compared to its previous high-octane extravaganza for FW22, the attendance of Grammy-award winner Jon Batiste kept spirits high. The clothes, ranging from varsity jackets paired with schoolboy ties to tweed miniskirts and polos, unmistakably looked back on Hilfiger’s 1990s heyday and sent that message that old money chic is back.
Thom Browne#
Closing out the NYFW calendar, Thom Browne’s performance opened with a familiar prose: “Once upon a midnight dreary, while I pondered weak and weary.” For the American auteur, fashion week offers a theatrical escape from the homogeneity of the fashion conveyor belt. This time, his inspiration arrived in the form of Edgar Allen Poe’s 1845 poem, The Raven.
To the soundtrack of the poem’s recital, models emerged from a broken window pane to congregate around the mise-en-scène’s centerpiece — a model suspended in a giant puffer jacket with long, branched arms. Children, in their own Thom Browne ensembles, followed the mother-like entity around the floor. Trenches were cinched at the ribcage, cocoon-like capes engulfed their wearers (all tied together with a very timely bow), and tuxedos took on unorthodox shapes in true Brown fashion. The finishing touch? Hair pulled and twisted into antennas.
Helmut Lang#
After his debut collection for Helmut Lang was met with mixed reviews last season, Peter Do turned his attention to the idea of armor for his latest collection, delving into the parallels between “protection and projection.” Taking the reins of one of fashion’s most disruptive and epoch-making brands is no easy feat; while Do is still finding his footing at the helm of Lang’s label, this collection gave the impression that he’s becoming more accustomed to the role.
On the runway, models, including Lang’s iconic bare-faced beauty Kirsten Owen, sported technical wear, vests that emulated bulletproof uniforms, and bubble-wrapped trousers and shirts. Although the lineup certainly boasted more artistic depth than last season, it still lacked the idiosyncratic sex appeal that Lang’s legacy is synonymous with.