Tiffany’s ‘Bird on a Pearl’ takes flight in Shanghai

The bird is back. A giant version of Tiffany’s iconic Bird on a Rock could be seen perched atop Shanghai’s West Bund Orbit exhibition hall on March 14 for a high jewelry event to launch the new “Bird on a Pearl” collection in China. The avian theme continued within the trendy new riverside space as invited guests got a first glimpse of the House’s latest collection, alongside hundreds of Tiffany high jewelry pieces displayed in nature-themed settings. A similar giant bird was last spotted during the opening of Tiffany’s Shanghai Taikoo Li Qiantan store in December 2023. In our latest partnership feature, Jing Daily analyzes how the legacy motif is proving to be a feather in Tiffany’s cap as the LVMH brand seeks to define its positioning at the pinnacle of high jewelry and drive desire in the China market through exclusive products and events. Tiffany’s China focus aligns with Bain-Altagamma’s Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study 2023, which confirmed fine jewelry as “a bright spot for investment amid uncertainty … favored by top spenders on the ultra-high offer, with unfolding demand for excellence and durability.” Introducing Bird on a Pearl Tiffany first introduced Jean Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock design in 1965. Inspired by the yellow-crested cockatoos that the jeweler encountered on his travels in the Caribbean and in Asia, the playful motif has maintained its allure for almost 60 years and continues to inspire new collections. Bird on a Pearl is the latest reimagining, highlighting rare natural saltwater pearls enlivened with the signature bird motif. The pearls are prized for their exceptional size, shape and luster, with natural colors varying from pink to gray, brown and yellow. “With the richness of their hues, the pearls chosen for this majestic collection transcribe the four seasons through a colorful and luminescent palette,” says Nathalie Verdeille, Chief Artistic Officer, Jewelry and High Jewelry, Tiffany & Co. Among the capsule highlights are a brooch inspired by an archival Schlumberger acorn motif, featuring a bird perched on a button pearl, and the Bird on a Pearl necklace, with five birds fluttering around a natural saltwater pearl strand that totals over 325 carats. More flights of fancy Bird on a Rock achieved global renown in 1995 when it was set atop another Tiffany icon, the 128.54-carat “The Tiffany Diamond,” as part of a Jean Schlumberger retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. This meeting of motifs was revisited when it was reset as a pendant with five birds fluttering around the famous diamond for the reopening of Tiffany’s flagship store at Fifth Avenue in New York, The Landmark, in 2023. The same year, the concept was expanded to include a full suite of designs spanning pendants, necklaces, rings, earrings, brooches, and timepieces, incorporating the signature bird in different stances and in flight. As part of Tiffany’s growing “Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany” collection in honor of the prolific 20th-century designer, the “Bird on a Rock” capsules have debuted in seasonal phases, maximizing the buzz and desirability of each subsequent release. Among these have been the “Diamond Bird on a Rock” and “Rainbow Bird on a Rock.” The latter features a kaleidoscope of colorful gems, including a 44-carat amethyst and 44-carat green cuprian elbaite tourmaline. Swiss-made timepieces encrusted in diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds have also been introduced with mechanisms that enable the gemstones and bird to “fly” around the dial as the wearer moves. Invited guests at the “Bird on a Pearl” launch in Shanghai could also experience up-close encounters with Rainbow Bird on a Rock and other pieces from the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany and Blue Book 2023 collections, among the hundreds of high jewelry pieces on display. In pursuit of the rarest gems Key to attracting the world’s most discerning high jewelry buyers is acquiring the world’s most precious gemstones, and the provenance and traceability of gems has perhaps never been more important to consumers. Since Charles Lewis Tiffany bought the 287.42-carat rough yellow diamond in 1878, which was finally cut to namesake 128.54-carat “The Tiffany Diamond,” the House’s pursuit of the finest natural gems has been a vital part of its brand story. Due to overfishing and the state of the oceans, natural saltwater pearls have become very rare, driving up the value and desirability of the “Bird on a Pearl” collection. The natural pearls from a private collection join Tiffany’s impressive list of recent gemstone acquisitions. These include a final curation of rare pink diamonds from the now-closed Argyle Mine in Australia, the largest rough Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds discovered in Canada, and the 10+-carat Muzo emerald from Columbia. Flying high in China Since being acquired by LVMH in 2021, Tiffany has set its sights on China’s top-end market through an upgraded retail network and a focus on its high jewelry and “Icons” collections, coupled with exclusive launches and events in key Chinese cities. The house grew sales to 5.1 billion euros ($5.54 billion) in 2022 from 3 billion euros ($3.26 billion) in 2020 and is forecast to reach 7.4 billion euros ($8.04 billion) in 2025. Despite a challenging year, LVMH’s watches and jewelry segment recorded organic revenue growth of 7 percent in 2023, with the company noting “powerful creative momentum” for its watch and jewelry brands, particularly Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. In the Bain-Altagamma luxury report, mainland China, Generations Y, Z, and Alpha, and monobrand stores were singled out as pivotal forces set to reshape the luxury goods market by 2030. Tiffany & Co. has clearly taken note. Over the past year, Tiffany has been wooing the China market with new boutiques in Shanghai, Hangzhou, and Zhengzhou incorporating retail concepts from The Landmark in New York. For the first time in history, the jeweler unveiled its Blue Book 2023 Fall high jewelry collection outside of New York, with a private event in Shanghai last October. In addition to the new retail and clienteling experiences, the latest event in Shanghai was another chance for Chinese luxury consumers to explore the brand’s history and interact with Tiffany’s finest pieces. As the giant bird twinkled on the Shanghai skyline, it was clear that Bird on a Rock’s unconventional and optimistic attitude is a smart way for Tiffany & Co. to spread its wings in China.

Tiffany’s ‘Bird on a Pearl’ takes flight in Shanghai

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Published March 22, 2024

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Tiffany’s ‘Bird on a Pearl’ takes flight in Shanghai