Florasis faces test after creative partner departs

Florasis, the Hangzhou-based cosmetics brand renowned for its ancient Chinese aesthetics and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM)-inspired formulations, arrives at a pivotal moment. On February 17, the brand’s partner, Wen Yuan, announced his departure via his personal WeChat blog. Wen played a defining role in crafting Florasis’ visual identity, from its elaborately engraved lipsticks to its ornate packaging, which positioned the brand as a premium player within China’s C-beauty sector. Public records indicate that in 2016, Wen co-founded Hangzhou Lankuo Visual Design with Florasis’ founder, Hua Mantian, pioneering a design-driven brand incubation model that helped propel C-beauty’s global rise. “Wen Yuan was the creative visionary behind Florasis’ hyper-detailed aesthetics and cultural storytelling — both core to its brand DNA,” says Adam Knight, co-founder of YASO, a Chinese social commerce platform that specializes in beauty. “His departure raises questions about whether the brand can sustain its distinct identity without him.” Florasis has yet to provide specifics on how it will maintain its visual brand identity post-Wen. “Due to company policies, we are unable to provide further details on this matter,” Gabby Chen, president of global expansion at Florasis, tells Jing Daily. The end of this partnership not only raises questions about the company’s creative direction but also about the sustainability of its long-term global ambitions. Florasis’ strategic push into premium markets In recent years, Florasis has made bold moves in international markets. The homegrown label has positioned itself as a premium brand overseas, departing from the conventional low-cost C-beauty export model. The company employs a high-end pricing strategy, with products marked up significantly outside of China. For instance, the brand’s Love Lock Lipstick, priced at 219 RMB ($30) domestically, sells for 371 RMB ($51) in Japan, a 1.7 times increase. Similarly, its Heshouwu eyebrow pencil, which costs 69 RMB ($10) in China, is priced at 108 RMB ($15) in Japan and 139 RMB ($19) in the US. Chen describes the company’s approach as a deliberate effort to communicate exclusivity and craftsmanship. “We emphasize heritage and innovation, modernizing ancient beauty rituals while ensuring our brand resonates with a global audience,” she explains, highlighting Florasis’ Japan strategy, where the brand introduced sheer, lightweight formulas tailored to local consumer preferences. The brand has also ventured into the Middle East, offering long-wear, high-pigment products catering to regional beauty trends. Alec Hou, founder and CEO of Essence Group, a marketing agency in China that specializes in luxury beauty and fashion brands, shares that Florasis’ deep understanding of Chinese culture and Eastern aesthetics strongly resonates in the broader APAC region. “The brand’s signature carved lipstick and embossed eyeshadow palettes were widely recognized as visually striking, innovative products, gaining significant traction in Japan, where appreciation for craftsmanship runs deep,” says Hou. However, he points out that Florasis has seen a slowdown in product innovation over the past two years, with no substantial breakthroughs. The struggle for global acceptance Despite its cultural cachet, Florasis faces significant challenges in global markets. Western consumers have historically favored minimalist packaging over ornate designs, and TCM-infused beauty products require extensive education to drive adoption. As Knight observes, “Florasis’ biggest advantage is its ability to blend heritage craftsmanship with modern formulations, but translating that appeal internationally requires overcoming retail distribution hurdles and shifting consumer expectations.” Juliette Duveau, co-founder of The Chinese Pulse, echoes this sentiment. “Florasis must find the right balance between maintaining its cultural identity and modernizing to appeal to foreign markets,” she says. “Since customization for Chinese skin tones and skin types is central to the brand, some products may not always be suitable for Western users.” Florasis’ expansion mirrors broader trends in Chinese soft power, as C-beauty brands aim to redefine luxury through cultural storytelling. However, with Western beauty consumers still acclimating to Chinese beauty aesthetics, the brand risks being perceived as a collector’s item rather than an everyday essential. Hou remains optimistic about the future of Florasis thanks to the globalization of Chinese culture, which is fueling curiosity and demand for Chinese beauty in Western markets. “The export of Chinese entertainment and games, such as Genshin Impact, Black Myth: Wukong, and Ne Zha, has contributed to the popularization of ’China-chic’ aesthetics.” He continues, “The rise of brands such as Huawei and BYD has reshaped the perception of ’Made in China’ as representing high value and innovation, breaking the stereotype of Chinese manufacturing as ‘cheap and low-quality.’ This has also paved the way for Chinese beauty brands like Florasis.” Digital-first but with selective retail expansion Unlike many mass-market competitors, Florasis adopts a hybrid retail model, focusing on digital channels while strategically entering high-end physical retail spaces. According to Hou, the brand leverages unboxing videos from influencers on TikTok and Instagram to amplify the “ritualistic” aspect of its products — such as the carving process and magnetic packaging — in order to generate viral content. “On Japan’s Amazon, users refer to the carved lipstick as a ’desktop art piece,’ with over 500,000 organic social media shares driving a 200% sales increase,” he shares. Florasis further connects with consumers through interactive storytelling and education. “We host beauty masterclasses, collaborate with local influencers, and offer VIP experiences for brand loyalists,” says Chen. The brand has amassed 1.2 million followers on TikTok and garnered strong engagement across Instagram and YouTube. To reinforce its premium positioning, Florasis has prioritized strategic offline expansion. In 2023, the brand opened its first overseas pop-up in Tokyo’s Cosme flagship store, followed by a seasonal boutique in Isetan Shinjuku. By early 2025, Florasis launched its first international flagship at Ginza Six, marking its most ambitious offline investment to date. The company also made its debut at Paris’ Samaritaine department store, becoming the first Chinese beauty brand to establish a presence in the historic luxury shopping destination. Florasis’ entry into Europe underscores its ambition to position itself alongside Western prestige beauty brands. As Florasis refines its global footprint, analysts question whether its luxury-driven model is scalable. Duveau points out that while Florasis has established a strong social media presence, especially on TikTok, “it must carefully balance exclusivity with accessibility.” Though digital engagement has fueled brand awareness, long-term success depends on whether Florasis can convert interest into sustained consumer demand. A future without Wen Yuan: Can Florasis keep its edge? Florasis’ strategy has positioned it as a global leader in C-beauty, but the road ahead remains uncertain. “If Florasis can institutionalize its creative direction rather than relying on a single figure, it may emerge even stronger,” Knight says. “Otherwise, it risks losing the very uniqueness that made it successful.” The departure of Wen Yuan, while significant, could also signal an evolution for the brand. “It presents an opportunity for Florasis to elevate its visual identity, better addressing the increasingly refined and sophisticated tastes of consumers,” Duveau adds. Moreover, growing competition from both domestic and international beauty players complicates Florasis’ trajectory. Global beauty giants are increasingly leveraging local partnerships and customization to reclaim market share, while emerging C-beauty brands are refining their own international strategies. “If Florasis remains too niche, its growth may plateau,” Knight warns. “If it broadens too much, it risks diluting the uniqueness that made it successful in the first place.” As Florasis navigates this critical juncture, it must prove that its fusion of Chinese heritage and premium positioning can translate beyond China’s borders. The brand’s next moves will determine whether it stays a niche luxury player or evolves into a truly global beauty powerhouse.

Florasis faces test after creative partner departs

On this page

Published March 17, 2025

Sectors

Insights

Company

Florasis faces test after creative partner departs