PFW Men’s: Which brands made noise on China’s socials?

With the Olympics just around the corner, Paris is abuzz with activity. Adding to the excitement, a swathe of famous faces touched down in the heart of luxury last week for the menswear circuit. Louis Vuitton, now under the creative direction of polymath Pharrell Williams, secured one of the opening slots on Tuesday with a timely sports-inspired showcase. This was followed by Rick Owens’ explosive spectacle, setting the tone for the city’s menswear scene. Meanwhile, on Saturday evening, Dries Van Noten took his final bow after 38 years at the helm of his namesake label. As expected, it was the attendance of Asian stars that ignited China’s social media sphere. Among them were Louis Vuitton global brand ambassador Jackson Wang, Japanese actor Dori Sakurada at Dior, Wang Yibo at Loewe, and K-pop boy band member Sunwoo at Amiri. Jing Daily rounds up the brands that made a splash online below. Louis Vuitton Marking Pharrell Williams’ fourth show at the helm of Louis Vuitton, the Parisian maison went heavy on the sporting references for SS25, from football-shaped bags to motocross-inspired jackets. “[It is] the celebration of human athletic prowess,” Williams told The Guardian post-show. Held at Paris’ Maison de l'Unesco on a checkered grass runway designed to resemble the brand’s famous check motif, unity and human connection lay at the heart of the collection — a vision that came to fruition through the show’s diverse casting and broad pastiche of patterns, materials, silhouettes, and motifs. On the heels of his recent collaboration with Williams’ digital auction platform Joopiter, which saw the star auction off a curated collection of personal artifacts, Jackson Wang graced the front row alongside It-girl Sabrina Carpenter and British music artist Central Cee. Despite a star-studded FROW, the clothes left a mixed impression on Chinese netizens. “I can’t bring myself to buy it,” penned user @kinnyjintianjidechihetao (kinny今天记得吃核桃). Others proclaimed that the collection’s commercial allure would resonate with shoppers. “Looking at these ‘designs,’ I know they'll definitely sell well despite the prices doubling,” wrote @zeyetengzhi (泽野滕致). Dior Homme With the lights dimmed and anticipation crackling in the air, Kim Jones unveiled his latest menswear show for Dior Spring/Summer 2025 on Friday. While competitors like Louis Vuitton tapped into the current sportswear zeitgeist, Jones chose to spotlight a personal passion: the ceramic works of South African potter Hylton Nel. Jones’ appreciation for Nel materialized in larger-than-life replicas of Nel’s whimsical cat sculptures, motifs, and a blue-and-white embroidered jacket crafted to mimic the texture of earthenware, a masterpiece that took 2,000 hours to complete. Other standout pieces included an asymmetrical cape coat that riffed off a 1952 original Christian Dior design. The maison boasted one of the most glittering FROWs of the season, with luminaries Bad Bunny and Robert Pattinson in tow, alongside K-pop superstars Tomorrow x Together and Japanese actor and singer Dori Sakurada. This move underscored Dior’s growing cultural clout across Asia. Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten’s 150th and final show took place over the weekend in a warehouse in Paris, complete with a shimmering silver runway. For his latest collection, Van Noten used the traditional Japanese “suminagashi” marbling method to produce organic, one-of-a-kind prints for his last exhibition. Tempering serious and whimsical components, Van Noten’s looks conveyed a sense of weightlessness with their light, airy feel. “I fell in love with him from the moment I entered the fashion industry,” wrote Xiaohongshu user @dujuanpipi (杜鹃皮皮). “Sixteen years have passed in a flash, and now he’s retired. Those never-tiring prints and genderless styles, where can I find them now?” “I’m very grateful to Dries for always being true to himself all these years,” posted another netizen, @Philia_BL. “This era desperately needs quiet and serious clothing makers.”Other Chinese netizens commemorated Van Noten’s legacy. “Dries is still the same Dries, never compromising with the times, yet always finding his own path in different eras. Just like the magnificent outfits in this show, you can see his past and rebirth in these looks,” posted @Peekaboom. “These design elements, bearing eternal symbols, have never gone out of style and always remain fresh.” In March, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, known for his unique elegance and creativity, announced his retirement. As a result, this farewell show was a fitting tribute to his innovative and influential career. Loewe Kicking off at the Garde Républicaine’s Célestins barracks in Paris, Loewe’s latest show was described by creative director Jonathan Anderson as “what a collection would be if it was that,” according to The Guardian. From black suits to trench coats and headbands composed of feathers, Chinese netizens praised the functionality and inspiration of the art-inspired runway collection. Most captivating of all, however, was Chinese celebrity Wang Yibo, seated on the front row. “I really like Wang Yibo’s outfit; it was eye-catching, and the show was quite impressive too,” wrote Xiaohongshu user @Linda. Others praised Anderson’s multi-tasking abilities as the designer behind both Loewe and his own eponymous label, JW Anderson. “With a personal brand to manage while designing men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections for Loewe and collaborating on capsule collections with other brands, Jonathan Anderson is akin to Alessandro Michele in terms of creative output,” posted @Blucoke. Rick Owens Rick Owens’ 2025 Paris show, titled “Hollywood,” showcased his latest collection inspired by the rebellious spirit and eclectic characters of the famous avenue. The show featured a mix of influences, ranging from black-and-white biblical epics of pre-code Hollywood to the glamor and sin of art deco. Models walked the runway in gym shorts and chiffon capes, paired with oversized Geobasket sneakers. The collection emphasized sustainable practices, incorporating denim processed in Italy’s Veneto region using water-saving techniques and vegetable-tanned leather sourced from Solofra and Tuscany. Chinese netizens praised the production and creative direction behind the epic presentation. “Rather than a fashion show, it felt more like an art performance,” posted netizen @open source sense. “With Beethoven’s ‘Seventh Symphony’ playing, it made me think of religious processions or scenes from a sci-fi movie.” “It has the vibe of a space opera,” wrote another netizen, @qingshezhi2-24gezifu (请设置2-24个字符). “This could be used for Dune 3,” others like @Dandingjie (淡定姐) said. The collection featured innovative collaborations with designers such as Tanja Vidic and long-time collaborator Dafne Balatsos. Highlights included knitted onesies, silver silk satin gowns, and metallic Art Deco crowns created in partnership with milliner Coco Lucquiaud. Owens also welcomed a diverse audience, extending invitations to students and faculty from Paris fashion schools as well as old friends, emphasizing solidarity and individuality amid today’s environment of polarization and fragmentation, as noted in the show details.

PFW Men’s: Which brands made noise on China’s socials?

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Published June 25, 2024

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PFW Men’s: Which brands made noise on China’s socials?