Paris’ schedule unveiled its own take on the transmuting definition of menswear on show at the recently concluded Milan Fashion Week. The final leg of the calendar, the pressure was on to see out the procession of shows on a positive note – and that’s exactly what the likes of Louis Vuitton, Loewe, and Dior intended to do.
At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams’ take on the Western way of life paid overdue respect to the Black and Native American cowboys that have long been omitted from American history. Over at Loewe, creative director Jonathan Anderson explored the male sexual gaze through the lens of the "internet loverboy."
The penultimate day also saw both Balmain and Valentino revive their menswear divisions for the first time since before the pandemic. In Balmain’s case, the maison’s homme collection stole the spotlight for both the right and wrong reasons; not long after being eulogized for his designs, creative director Olivier Rousteing was accused of pilfering a piece of face jewelry from African brand Tongoro.
According to marketing agency Lefty's data insights, the top performing brands of the week in terms of Earned Media Value were Dior, Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Kenzo, and Ami. Jing Daily takes a look at some of the collections that generated online buzz below.
Loewe#
Loewe’s show was an ode to the "internet boyfriend," which saw guests perched underneath giant projections of male celebrities including Omar Apollo and Jamie Dornan displayed as religious figures cast upon stained-glass backdrops.
That internet-heavy theme translated into the clothes, which saw layered silhouettes – such as a trenches, cardigans, and shirts all merged into one – flattened into one-dimensional fabrics, designed to emulate how clothing is perceived through our phone screens.
Creative director Jonathan Anderson also invited artist Richard Hawkins to recontextualize his art into garments, such as sweatpants and knitted cardigans. Bare chests, undone belts, and a front row lined with Internet idols collectively sparked discourse on how masculinity is rendered through social media algorithms and the sexualised characterization of male figures.
Dior#
Kim Jones returned to the runway for FW24, unveiling the first couture menswear collection for Dior. Inspired by balletic elegance and traditional tailoring practices, models paraded through a purpose-built hangar in draped blouses, crystal embellished overcoats, and denim co-ords. Nods to traditional dance costumery made their appearance in the form of sheer organza tanks, ballet flats, and knit turtlenecks so tight that they gave the impression of leotards.
While "balletcore" made the rounds across womenswear last year, the trend remains in its infancy for menswear. It’s too early to tell whether or not its impact will transcend Dior’s runway.
Rick Owens#
Paris’ melange of menswear concepts continued at Rick Owens where, unsurprisingly, the eponymous disruptor played by his own rules. Exploring the tension between the grotesque and the inhuman – a response to current real-world tensions – and utopian phantasms, models swaddled in balls of fabric bounced through Owens’ own home in Paris’ Place Du Palais Bourbon.
The "space suits" as Owens coined them, were crafted from recycled cashmere, merino, and alpaca, while inflatable rubber boots were constructed in collaboration with London-based architectural virtuoso Straytukay.
Louis Vuitton#
Marking Pharrell William’s third collection at Louis Vuitton, Paris was transformed into a Texan ranch for FW24, with models sporting the quintessential Western wardrobe of cowboy hats, fringed coats, cowboy boots, fur jackets, and bolo ties.
The creative director reintroduced motifs previously seen at his SS24 Pont Neuf spectacle last year, including pixelated jackets and LV trunks carried on wooden carts. Beyond the clothes, the showcase paid respect to the forgotten original Black and Native American cowboys of America, groups that were excluded from the American history books.
Hermès#
Hermès, meanwhile, took the conventional elements of menswear – such as tailored suiting, pea coats, and three-quarter zip pullovers – and reimagined them through the eyes of the modern-day man. Honing in on the versatility of garments, each look was designed to be reworn and restyled in multiple ways, described as “reversible, superimposable, transformable" in the presentation's show notes. Highlights included a reversible leather coat, lightweight parkas, and slouchy leather bags.
Lefty's data is subject to change due to date discrepancies. Please contact Lefty or Karla Otto for full data and rankings.