Marie-Claire Daveu on steering Kering’s business transformation through innovation and responsibility

Kering recently staged the ceremony for the Kering Generation Award in Shanghai. The award ceremony for this fourth edition took place at the Museum of Art Pudong during Shanghai Fashion Week with the support from the global innovative platform Plug and Play China and Tsinghua x-lab. Launched in 2018, the Kering Generation Award has become a signature initiative to identify China’s most forward-thinking technologies that are weaving sustainability into the fabric of fashion and beauty. The program seeks out changemakers using innovative technologies to push the boundaries of sustainability — ranging from plant-based dyes to alternative leather — and lead the luxury industry toward a circular future. This year, the award took on a new urgency. In April, Kering unveiled its Water Positive Strategy, an ambitious plan to achieve a Net Water Positive Impact by 2050, reducing water risks across its value chain while restoring and regenerating water ecosystems. With this commitment came the theme of the 2025 award — “Pioneering Water Positive Impact” — which highlights the importance of water stewardship and advanced technologies in the luxury industry. This year’s top winners span a dazzling array of innovations, from textile 3D evaporative crystallization and bacterial strain-powered indigo production at industrial scale to eco-friendly macromolecular sunscreen ingredients. During Marie-Claire Daveu’s trip to Shanghai for the award ceremony, Jing Daily sat down with her — Kering’s Chief Sustainability and Institutional Affairs Officer, for an in-depth conversation about how Kering has led the evolution of sustainability in the luxury industry, the vision behind the Group’s Generation Award, the worst offenders in terms of fashion’s water footprint, and Kering’s growing collaboration with China spanning academia, design, and retail. Jing Daily: What cutting-edge technologies is Kering using to make the luxury sector increasingly sustainable, particularly those related to water — the theme of this year’s award? Marie-Claire Daveu: When we talk about technology, innovation, and sustainability, transparency is key — and that’s where modern tools like blockchain play an important role. We also use AI to better predict production volumes, helping us produce only what is needed. We call this “fair production,” and even though it’s still the beginning of the journey, AI shows great promise for our industry. Another fascinating field is biotechnology. For instance, we’re exploring mycelium as an alternative raw material and the use of microorganisms for eco-dyeing. So, we’re combining digital innovation and biotech to shape the future of fashion. As for our Kering Generation Award, this year's theme focuses on water. It's not only about reducing consumption or pollution — it’s also about restoring ecosystems and protecting biodiversity around water sources. That’s at the heart of our water stewardship strategy. We're also looking at new technologies like curtain dyeing, which significantly reduces water and energy use, especially in denim — one of the most resource-intensive materials in the textile industry. JD: The Kering Generation Award was started in China and is now in its fourth edition. What do you think of the award’s evolution, and what does it bring to the rest of the world? MCD: First, it’s important to note that we launched our Kering Award in China in 2018. With what we learned in China, we were able to expand the concept of our Kering Generation Award to Japan and Saudi Arabia. 2025 is also the year when we created our Kering Generation Award for jewelry — focused on one “métier” with a worldwide scope. At Kering, we have always put innovation at the core of our sustainability strategy, and thanks to these awards — and other internal tools and resources — we now have a robust global platform to cultivate sustainable innovation. Innovation is crucial if we want to succeed in achieving our targets, which are linked to climate change through SBTi (Science Based Targets initiative) and biodiversity through SBTN (Science Based Targets Network). We’ve noticed that each year we see more ambitious and remarkable projects, from raw materials to business models, the results of which can be used by our brands. The Kering Generation Award is also a powerful way to show that Chinese innovations are helping shape the future of sustainable luxury. Innovations that come from China are very important. I was really impressed by the volume and speed of innovation emerging from China. JD: Kering has been strengthening its ties with universities and research institutions. For instance, it launched a sustainable fashion MOOC (Massive Open Online Course) together with Tsinghua University last year and collaborated with Tsinghua x-lab for this year’s Generation Award. How have these partnerships been progressing so far? MCD: At Kering, we are convinced that education and training must be part of a company’s strategy. If you really want to profoundly change the business model, it’s not only about achieving incremental progress, but also ensuring that the next generation is engaged. That’s why connections with universities and institutes are key. With Tsinghua University and x-lab, we are combining science, entrepreneurship, and creativity. The MOOC has already reached thousands of learners, and the Generation Award connects research directly to real business solutions — that’s how innovation scales. Yet, sustainability is not just an academic subject — it’s a shared responsibility. Everyone, student or not, must learn to understand its challenges and integrate them into their daily practice, no matter the job. Today, what is great about Tsinghua is that we’re able to combine science, entrepreneurship, and creativity. Because we are in the fashion world, creativity is key. Through Tsinghua and its x-lab, we’re able to enhance this creativity. We have similar partnerships with London College of Fashion in the UK, National University of Singapore and l’Institut Français de la Mode in France. JD: Why did Kering set the theme for this year's award as ‘Pioneering Water Positive Impact?’ MCD: Water is at the heart of both life and luxury. Our industry relies on it — from growing cotton and producing fibers to dyeing, tanning, and finishing materials — yet freshwater resources are under increasing pressure around the world. Through Kering’s Water Positive Strategy, created earlier this year, we aim to move beyond mitigation — to actively restore, regenerate, and protect water ecosystems along our entire value chain. Though we are in the early stages, we already have a clear roadmap to tackle the challenges ahead. As I said previously, it’s really about water consumption, water pollution, and the ecosystem. We will not only continue to support regenerative agriculture, but also use raw materials that require less water or employ less water-intensive processes. We are operating with stakeholders from everywhere — NGOs, startups, experts. To give you an example, we’re starting in Italy. Next month I’m going to the Arno Basin in northern Italy — a place well known among luxury players. In this basin, we will work with the Italian authorities as well as some competitors and NGOs to create a coalition that will develop a corrective approach and innovative solutions. Setting the theme of “water” for our Generation Award is a way to amplify the message and accelerate action — by identifying and supporting innovators who can help transform the way our industry manages and values water. JD: What are among the worst offenders in fashion's water footprint? How is Kering addressing these problems? MCD: Cotton cultivation and dyeing are among the largest contributors to fashion’s water footprint. At Kering, we are developing new low-water materials through our Material Innovation Lab. Training people and raising awareness are also central because globally speaking, the connection between luxury and natural resources is less obvious than for the food sector, for instance. JD: Kering has committed to measurable improvements in the Group’s key hotspots by 2035 and a Net Water-Positive Impact by 2050 in its Water-Positive Strategy. What progress has been made so far toward these goals? MCD: Today, thanks to our Environmental Profit & Loss (EP&L) tool, we have a clear picture of where we stand — but we’re still at the early stages of our journey. I’ll be visiting projects on the ground before the end of the year, and we expect to share tangible progress within two years. For now, our focus is on mobilizing the right stakeholders. Change will come gradually, region by region, as we work toward our ultimate goal: achieving a net positive water impact by 2050. Sustainability is a collective journey — and it takes time. But we’re proud that Kering became the first company to adopt science-based targets for both land and freshwater in 2024, positioning us strongly for success. JD: Can you walk us through the process a Kering fashion house undergoes to achieve the Group’s sustainability goals? MCD: Each of our Houses has its own creative DNA. But when it comes to sustainability, a shared framework and set of goals are essential. Using insights from our EP&L, my team develops Group-wide standards, tools, and programs that all Houses can access. We then tailor these to each brand’s unique realities — the priorities of Gucci and Qeelin, for instance, differ in scale and focus. Yet the philosophy, commitment, and KPIs remain consistent across the Group. We act as partners to our brands, helping them translate ambition into concrete initiatives. Sustainability must begin at the design stage — considering how a product will be dismantled or which materials will best serve its lifespan. Collaboration with designers is therefore crucial. At Kering, we believe sustainability should never limit creativity — it should ignite it. This approach not only drives innovation but also inspires the next generation. So that when they start their own brands, they naturally consider environmental challenges as part of their creative journey from day one. JD: Kering China recently signed an MoU with Swire Properties to enhance ESG and sustainability performance across its brands’ retail stores in mainland China and Hong Kong. Could you outline the key areas of cooperation and what outcomes you hope to achieve through this partnership? How does it reflect Kering’s localized approach to sustainability? MCD: We see this MoU with Swire Properties not as a symbolic gesture, but as a practical, localized embodiment of Kering’s sustainability vision in retail. Through Swire’s Green Retail Partnership and our joint Green Building Collaborative Approach, we’re aligning the efforts of retailer and landlord across the entire tenancy lifecycle — from store design and fit-out to daily operations. Swire’s on-the-ground teams bring valuable technical expertise and best practices to the table. They’re helping us implement sustainable solutions in both new and renovated stores, such as optimized lighting systems, efficient water and energy management, smart interior layouts, and the use of environmentally responsible materials during the fit-out phase. Importantly, we are also establishing a dedicated working group to rigorously track data — including waste, electricity, and water consumption — ensuring we stay aligned with our sustainability targets and can monitor our progress with precision. This partnership also sends a clear message: sustainability is not a cost — it’s a long-term investment in the future. And by making these efforts more visible in-store, we’re also raising consumer awareness — helping clients see that sustainability can be tangible, relatable, and present in the everyday choices they make. JD: One pillar of Kering’s “Pioneering Water Positive Impact” strategy focuses on raising consumer awareness. How can that message be translated into a luxury retail experience that encourages shoppers to act? MCD: We know that consumers — especially younger generations — are becoming increasingly demanding when it comes to sustainability. They’re asking more thoughtful questions about brands’ environmental footprints and issues like animal welfare. When someone chooses a luxury product — what we often refer to as a “perfect product” — it’s about creativity, design, and quality. Embedded in the very DNA of quality is a responsibility to respect both the planet and the people behind the product. We’re seeing a clear trend: more clients, particularly younger ones, are actively seeking out information on our websites about our sustainability commitments. That’s why our brands are now sharing more in-depth stories — about the origin of materials like cashmere, or how we’re approaching circularity and innovation. Transparency is essential, though we’re also mindful of striking the right balance to avoid overwhelming or oversimplifying. Internally, we also invest in training our teams. For example, our boutique staff are equipped to explain what mycelium is — and why it’s a compelling, more sustainable alternative to traditional raw materials. This kind of knowledge builds trust and deepens the relationship between the client and the brand. JD: Sustainability is now a core part of fashion creativity. How is Kering helping young designers in fashion and accessories integrate environmental responsibility from the start of their process? MCD: We are not perfect, but we are constantly trying to move things forward. One key focus is connecting our programs with fashion schools and universities, and collaborating with young designers — those who are not students anymore, but not yet established names. For instance, through our collaboration with S|STYLE this year in Italy, emerging designers are invited to explore our Material Innovation Lab, where they can discover more than 8,000 sustainable fabrics. It’s a way to inspire them and stimulate their creativity. We’ve launched a similar initiative in France as well. Every year, we also host a group of Saudi designers at our headquarters, where they meet with our sustainability experts and exchange ideas on practical aspects of sustainability. The winners of the Kering Generation Award, for example, take part in ChangeNOW in Paris — the world’s largest summit for innovation and sustainability. We also run a sustainability MOOC in partnership with the London College of Fashion and have created a Sustainability Chair with the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM). We apply the same approach to the jewelry and watchmaking sectors, where innovation and responsibility are equally crucial.

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Marie-Claire Daveu on steering Kering’s business transformation through innovation and responsibility