Leonardo Ferragamo: Dancing into China’s future

Founded in 1927 and expanding into ready-to-wear in 1965, Ferragamo has long epitomized Italian craftsmanship. Under the leadership of Leonardo Ferragamo, the fifth son of founders Salvatore and Wanda Ferragamo, the maison has turned to both its illustrious past and contemporary storytelling to chart a path forward. Ferragamo’s ballet-inspired Spring/Summer 2025 collection, helmed by Creative Director Maximilian Davis, pays homage to the maison’s deep-rooted connection to dance. This link goes back to the mid-20th century, when founder Salvatore Ferragamo’s creations graced the feet of iconic dancers like Katherine Dunham. Fast forward and Chinese ballet star Tan Yuanyuan (谭元元) featured prominently in the Spring/Summer 2025 collection’s Milan debut. Earlier this month, the maison wrapped up the year-long “Salvatore Ferragamo 1898-1960” exhibition at Ferragamo Museo in the heart of Florence, where the label’s headquarters is located. But as luxury businesses face waning demand, the brand is grappling with significant business challenges. Ferragamo reported a 7.2% revenue YoY decline in the third quarter, largely due to slowing demand in Asia-Pacific, particularly China. In response, Ferragamo is intensifying its efforts to connect emotionally with Chinese consumers, partly by deploying digital innovation and storytelling. Initiatives like the “Da Nü Zhu” (大女主) campaign, featuring modern, empowered women from diverse backgrounds, underscore its commitment to aligning with the aspirations of its audience over the long term. In an exclusive interview with Jing Daily, President Leonardo Ferragamo reflects on the maison’s ballet-inspired heritage, business strategies, and vision for the future. JD: What was the inspiration behind the SS25 collection, which blended traditional craftsmanship with contemporary elements, and how does it align with Ferragamo’s broader strategy? LF: The SS25 collection was inspired by Ferragamo’s rich history with ballet, a longstanding symbol of grace, discipline, and elegance, which mirrors the craftsmanship and artistry at the core of our brand. The incorporation of the “balletcore” trend connects this tradition with contemporary fashion sensibilities, appealing to modern audiences. By inviting Tan Yuanyuan, a renowned Chinese ballet artist, we not only honored this heritage but also strengthened our connection with the important Chinese market. Her presence at the Milan show reflects our dedication to creating cultural bridges, recognizing the growing significance of China in the global luxury landscape. JD: Given Ferragamo’s recent mixed earnings results, how is the brand planning to adapt its strategy to capture growth opportunities? LF: While recent earnings have shown some volatility, particularly in key markets like China, Ferragamo is committed to refining its approach to better capture growth opportunities. We are focusing on three main pillars: elevating the customer experience, reinforcing our presence in key cities, and tailoring collections to local preferences while maintaining our global brand identity. We see China as a critical market and are implementing a more personalized, localized strategy, leveraging digital engagement, partnerships, and cultural understanding to drive stronger brand affinity. JD: What specific steps is Ferragamo taking to strengthen its connection with affluent Chinese consumers? LF: The luxury landscape in China is rapidly evolving, and Ferragamo recognizes the need to resonate deeply with the values and aspirations of its consumers. We’ve launched initiatives like the “Da Nü Zhu” (大女主) short film series, which portrays independent, confident, and multifaceted women. Through these stories, we convey the spirit of Ferragamo’s woman — elegant yet assertive, blending modernity with timelessness. By embracing these values, we aim to establish a more emotional and authentic connection with our Chinese audience, showcasing how our brand aligns with their personal narratives and aspirations. JD: Digital engagement and social media are key to engaging younger audiences. What’s Ferragamo’s approach to digital innovation? LF: Digital engagement plays an integral role in how we connect with younger audiences while staying true to Ferragamo’s heritage. The “Ferragamo in Florence” campaign, viewed through the artistic lens of Juergen Teller, is a prime example of how we use digital innovation to bridge the gap between our history and contemporary culture. By combining modern storytelling techniques with authentic visual language, we create narratives that resonate with the digital-savvy consumer, ensuring our legacy remains relevant in the fast-paced luxury market. JD: What role does sustainability play in Ferragamo’s strategy? LF: Sustainability is a cornerstone of Ferragamo’s long-term vision, and we understand that it is a growing priority for younger consumers, especially in markets like China. Our focus is on creating products that are not only luxurious, but also environmentally responsible. We are investing in sustainable materials, reducing our environmental footprint across our supply chain, and emphasizing circularity in fashion. These initiatives align with the values of the new generation of luxury buyers, who seek authenticity, responsibility, and quality in the brands they choose. JD: Ferragamo has a rich heritage, but younger consumers often look for novelty. How is the brand balancing its legacy with innovation? LF: Ferragamo’s Italian heritage is a source of pride, but we also recognize the importance of evolving to meet the expectations of younger consumers who seek novelty and innovation. Our approach balances these elements by preserving the craftsmanship and artistry for which we are known, while integrating modern design and technology. Campaigns like “Ferragamo in Florence,” with its fresh visual narrative by Juergen Teller, an artist renowned for unique perspective on modernity, innovative approach, authenticity, exemplify how we communicate this blend of heritage and innovation. We continually push the boundaries of our collections by experimenting with contemporary silhouettes, sustainable materials, and digital storytelling, ensuring our brand remains both timeless and forward-thinking for new generations. JD: What milestones does Ferragamo aim to achieve in China over the next five years? LF: Over the next five years, Ferragamo’s focus will be on product innovation, and solidifying our position as a leader in luxury. In China, we have already taken significant steps with the recent openings of our new concept stores in Beijing’s Chinaworld and Suzhou Matro, which embody a modern retail experience that connects with local consumers. These stores are designed to offer an immersive experience that blends tradition with modernity, reflecting our brand evolution. Additionally, we aim to continue refreshing the store design and open new concept stores in key Chinese cities while developing products that resonate with local preference. Through more and more innovative initiatives, we seek to reinforce Ferragamo’s positioning as both a heritage brand and an innovator in the luxury space. This interview has been edited and condensed for brevity and clarity. Jing Daily presents Jing Masterminds — a regular, exclusive interview series profiling today’s most iconic names in art, fashion, commerce and culture. Delving deep into their personal journeys, creative processes, business strategies and societal impacts, the series offers readers an intimate look at the lives and minds shaping our industries.

Leonardo Ferragamo: Dancing into China’s future

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Published November 13, 2024

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Leonardo Ferragamo: Dancing into China’s future