From ‘mom bag’ to ‘it bag’: The reinvention of Coach

Coach, one of the most recognized names in accessible luxury, has re-emerged as a global fashion powerhouse, reinventing itself from a “mom bag” label to an “it bag” brand. In China, the American brand’s latest spring campaign, “On Your Own Time,” featuring Elle Fanning, has ignited widespread buzz on TikTok, Instagram, and Xiaohongshu (RedNote). The campaign’s hashtag, “My life has its own rhythm” (#我的生活自有节奏), has amassed nearly 250,000 views, signaling Coach’s growing relevance among Gen Z and millennial shoppers. Coach’s sales surge: Outperforming accessible luxury competitors As economic headwinds impact luxury spending, many accessible luxury brands have struggled to retain market relevance. Yet, Coach’s brand transformation has yielded impressive results. On the one hand, these brands struggle to compete with the exclusivity and price premiums of high luxury; on the other, they are squeezed by the affordability and variety offered by fast fashion. Caught between these two extremes, many accessible luxury players have seen their market relevance erode. Amid an industry-wide downturn, Coach may be defying the odds: Backed by a keen brand strategy and bold product innovation, the American heritage label has emerged as a rare success story — outpacing competitors and delivering impressive growth. According to parent company Tapestry’s latest earnings report, Coach’s sales rose 11% year-over-year to $1.7 billion in Q2 FY2025, accounting for 78% of total group revenue — making it the only brand under Tapestry to post growth. Both gross and operating profits outperformed the broader group, while sales in Greater China rose 3% YoY and North America remained a key growth driver. Once dismissed as a “mom bag” brand, Coach has reinvented itself as the go-to handbag label for young, fashion-forward consumers, in what has become a case study in brand revival. The transformation is reflected in Coach’s leap on Lyst’s Q4 2024 global brand rankings, climbing 10 spots to break into the top five most popular brands worldwide for the first time. Demand for Coach products surged 65% quarter-on-quarter and 332% YoY, according to Lyst. How did Coach pull off one of the most compelling turnarounds in the modern luxury landscape? How Coach reinvented itself: ‘Expressive luxury’ and ‘it bags’ The key to Coach’s revival lies in its shift from “accessible luxury” to “expressive luxury.” Its revival is deeply rooted in its relentless focus on product innovation and strategic brand repositioning. In response to growing demand for personalization and more expressive luxury, Coach officially redefined its brand positioning in 2022 — shifting from “accessible luxury” to “expressive luxury.” This pivotal move underscores the brand’s commitment to offering products that speak to a new generation’s desire for style, individuality, and cultural relevance, successfully rebuilding its connection with younger consumers. Under the helm of creative director, British fashion designer Stuart Vevers, Coach has undergone a systematic product overhaul, aligning closely with the aesthetics and lifestyles of modern consumers. Bags such as the Tabby Pillow, Empire Carryall, and Brooklyn have become pivotal to the brand’s ongoing youth-centric transformation. These collections not only shed the brand’s formerly dated image, but also speak directly to the evolving tastes of younger North American consumers. In the Chinese market, platforms like Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote) and Douyin have become key battlegrounds for Coach’s youth-driven strategy. On Xiaohongshu, a large volume of unboxing and styling posts about Coach’s Tabby, Pillow, and Empire Carryall collections has cultivated a thriving community of user discussions. Fashion influencer @ManicBee posted about the Coach Fall/Winter collection, with captions like “Cooler Coach sparks my desire to buy,” generating a lot of likes, shares, and comments. From the sweet-cool vibe of the Tabby Pillow to the practical, commuter-friendly style of the Empire Carryall, high-quality user-generated content (UGC) has continually deepened the brand’s influence within its community. Digital-first marketing and social media prowess Coach has also leveraged integrated online-offline marketing activities to deepen its interaction with young consumers. In 2024, the brand launched the “Super Fan” event in collaboration with Douyin Mall’s Brand Member Day, offering livestreamed sessions, early access to new releases, brand story shares, and influencer-driven sales to achieve full-channel exposure. Amid fierce competition in the “accessible luxury” market, Coach has cleverly positioned itself as “expressive luxury,” combining high-end craftsmanship with more approachable pricing and youthful designs, and creating greater market space and competitive advantage. Coach’s growing influence in the North American market Notably, Coach has long maintained a strong foothold in the North American market, particularly among Gen Z and millennial shoppers. In its 2024 annual report, Tapestry highlighted that Coach gained over 6.5 million new customers in North America over the past year, with Gen Z and millennials making up more than half of that number. Previously, during the third-quarter earnings call, Tapestry CEO Joanne Crevoiserat also noted that Coach had attracted 800,000 new consumers in the quarter, with 60% coming from younger demographics. Looking closer, the Tabby Pillow series, with its candy-colored hues and plush silhouettes, has become a cult favorite among younger consumers, consistently ranking on Lyst’s hottest product lists and dominating social media feeds. Meanwhile, the Empire Carryall, with its minimalist lines and spacious design, has redefined the classic work bag. It has not only emerged as a staple for a new generation of professional women but has also found resonance with a broader audience — including “American streetwear boys” — expanding Coach’s reach across gender and style spectrums. The Brooklyn bag, with its minimalist black design and urban appeal, has become a symbol of Coach’s brand reinvention. In 2024, Bella Hadid was spotted pairing the Brooklyn bag with her street style, instantly sparking a social media buzz. Shortly after, Cardi B was also seen carrying the same bag on multiple occasions, further boosting the bag’s popularity across North America and globally. According to e-commerce aggregator Lyst, the Brooklyn bag’s search volume surged over 120% following this exposure, making it one of the top-five most searched bags of last year. On Xiaohongshu, the topic “coach bag charm” (#coach 包挂) has reached 55,000 views. This strategic use of accessories in conjunction with core bag collections has not only strengthened Coach’s appeal among younger consumers, but also helped the brand build a diverse and cohesive product ecosystem. Coach’s playbook for long-term success In its brand marketing strategy, Coach has moved beyond traditional endorsement models by leveraging global celebrities, key opinion leaders (KOLs), and real consumers’ everyday styling to co-create the brand image. By integrating its products into pop culture and the daily lives of younger generations, Coach has reinforced its image as a “youthful, trendy, and personalized” brand, effectively aligning with the preferences and values of today’s consumers. This approach has successfully navigated the consumer’s recognition journey, establishing a direct connection with the younger audience. On Xiaohongshu, a wealth of unboxing and styling posts about Coach bags has created a vibrant user discussion community, driving significant engagement and buzz around the brand.

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From ‘mom bag’ to ‘it bag’: The reinvention of Coach