Knot what it seems: Fendi’s F/W show irks Chinese netizens

Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2025 runway was designed to be a celebration of the house’s 100-year legacy. But in China, it became something else entirely — a viral spectacle fueled by high-profile celebrity appearances, record-breaking online engagement, and a cultural controversy that put the brand at the center of heated debate. Unveiled on February 26 at Milan Fashion Week, the collection embraced a modern take on vintage silhouettes, juxtaposing sequined embroidery with sheer tulle and pairing structured leather skirts with oversized outerwear. The house’s signature sophistication was evident in the accessory lineup; peep-toe heels and doll-like bag charms injected playful nostalgia into the centennial showcase. Yet, while the craftsmanship and styling generated buzz, it was Fendi’s strategic ambassador placements — and an unexpected design controversy — that dominated chatter on Chinese social media. Star power: Celebrity ambassadors drive Chinese engagement Brand ambassador Song Yuqi, a member of South Korean girl group I-dle, played a central role in Fendi’s centennial push, not only attending the show but also performing an original song, titled Just Fendi, at the afterparty. Donning a polished preppy look from the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, menswear ambassador Tan Jianci, an actor and singer who is widely known as a member of idol group M.I.C., was seated next to Fendi’s CEO, reinforcing his status as one of China’s most bankable luxury faces. The impact of Fendi’s China strategy was immediate. On Weibo, #FendiFallWinter2025 amassed 98.3 million views and its livestreamed attracted an audience of 34.7 million, with related topics trending on Xiaohongshu (also known as RedNote) as users dissected the collection’s styling and accessory choices. The brand’s approach paid off, with Tan’s 17.8 million Weibo followers and Song’s 10.5 million ensuring that Fendi remained a top conversation driver in the days following the show. However, the digital exposure wasn’t entirely organic — nor was it without controversy. The Chinese knot controversy: Cultural attribution in question Fendi’s “Hand in Hand” series, created in collaboration with South Korean artist Kim Eun-Young, featured a Chinese knot motif that ignited online debate, with some netizens accusing the brand of misattributing the craft’s origin to South Korea. The hashtag “Fendi responding to the China knot controversy” (#Fendi回应中国结争议) exploded to 110 million views, remaining at the top of Weibo’s trending list for nearly eight hours. While major Chinese media outlets largely avoided taking a stance, discussion escalated on social platforms. Beyond the runway: Navigating cultural sensitivities in luxury Some users demanded an official statement from Fendi, while others turned their focus to its celebrity ambassadors. “Sitting next to the CEO and promoting the brand — shouldn’t the ambassadors also push for an explanation?” Xiaohongshu user MissSlowbeat (@慢半拍小姐) wrote. On Weibo, user Littlebeesdonotdance (@小蜜蜂不跳舞) questioned the brand’s broader history, noting that Fendi had previously faced criticism for its stance on Xinjiang cotton. Despite the debate, some netizens pointed to historical sources verifying the knot’s Chinese origins, with Tencent reporting on expert analysis from a Chinese Folk Arts Association heritage specialist. However, in the absence of an official response from Fendi or authoritative media outlets, the controversy remained largely within the realm of social media discourse rather than escalating into a full-fledged crisis. While the conversation surrounding Fendi’s centennial show extended beyond fashion, the brand’s ability to maintain engagement through a mix of luxury, celebrity influence, and cultural references underscores its evolving strategy in China. Whether the controversy will prompt a response or fade amid ongoing discussions remains to be seen, but for now, Fendi’s centennial celebration has ensured its presence in the global spotlight — both on and off the runway.

Knot what it seems: Fendi’s F/W show irks Chinese netizens

On this page

Published March 01, 2025

Sectors

Insights

Company

Knot what it seems: Fendi’s F/W show irks Chinese netizens