Manolo Blahnik enters China with measured strategy

Footwear brand Manolo Blahnik will officially enter mainland China on November 4, opening its inaugural boutique at Shanghai’s prestigious Plaza 66, a renowned destination for luxury shoppers. The store follows years of demand for Manolo Blahnik’s iconic “dream shoes” among Chinese consumers, who previously accessed the brand only through international luxury e-commerce platforms like Mytheresa or by purchasing abroad. However, many netizens, including Xiaohongshu user @VeraLittleQiqi (@Vera小琪琪), have noted that buying online makes it challenging to select the right shoe size. The luxury footwear market in China is projected to grow at a CAGR of 7.58% from 2024 to 2029, reaching a market size of $7.19 billion (51 billion RMB) by 2029. While Roger Vivier, Jimmy Choo, and Christian Louboutin launched boutiques in mainland China over a decade ago to capitalize on the country’s booming luxury sector, Manolo Blahnik is opting for a different strategy. Kristina Blahnik, who became CEO in 2013, has steered the brand toward gradual, slower growth, prioritizing direct-to-consumer engagement over rapid international expansion. She shares her insights below. Launching in China with purpose “China has always been in our long-term plans, but we felt it was essential to wait for the right infrastructure and timing,” Blahnik says. Following a Supreme Court ruling that restored Manolo Blahnik’s trademark in China in 2022, the brand invested two years immersing itself in the market, focusing on identifying the right local partners instead of relying on domestic distributors. Blahnik’s familiarity with China dates back to 1995, and a recent visit left her struck by the dynamism of Shanghai and Beijing. “Shanghai, with its rich fashion ecosystem, felt like the right choice for our first Mainland China store,” she says. Securing a spot at Plaza 66 underscores the brand’s positioning within the upper echelon of luxury retail. While the brand has strong recognition in the Chinese market, where its heels and slingback pumps are popular choices for weddings and college graduations, it faces stiff competition as a latecomer. Established luxury brands like Valentino, Miu Miu, and Saint Laurent present formidable footwear alternatives, also favored for weddings and special occasions. Maintaining exclusivity on and offline While Blahnik acknowledges the importance of e-commerce, physical retail remains the brand’s priority. “Physical and digital spaces must coexist,” Blahnik says, “but our first step was creating a space where customers can experience the brand in its full authenticity.” Manolo Blahnik has created six exclusive shoe styles for the Plaza 66 boutique, four of which are inspired by the Chinese winter jasmine flower. The choice reflects its commitment to thoughtful localization and its understanding of China’s deep appreciation for symbolism in design. To enhance the boutique’s cultural resonance, Blahnik — who is an architect by training — designed the space herself. The space features muted Georgian aesthetics and colorful custom furniture created in collaboration with Chinese designer Chen Darui (陈大瑞), blending local artistry with the brand’s DNA. With a Tmall launch planned for 2025, the brand aims to reach a broader audience while preserving its exclusive allure. “Tmall allows us to connect with a wider audience, while our boutique offers a curated, intimate experience,” says Blahnik, adding that the luxury focus of the Tmall platform aligns with the brand’s values. Growing sustainably Looking ahead, Blahnik tells Jing Daily: “Manolo Blahnik’s expansion plans in China will be gradual, with intentions to open one store per year across major cities, including Beijing, Chengdu, and Shenzhen.” This conservative approach contrasts with the rapid rollouts often seen among luxury competitors but aligns with Manolo Blahnik’s ethos of deliberate, heritage-focused growth. The brand also plans to introduce men’s footwear — a relatively unknown offering within its China portfolio — to diversify its appeal without broadening product categories beyond footwear and limited accessories, where its expertise lies. However, challenges lie ahead in China’s competitive and dynamic landscape, particularly with platforms like Little Red Book, WeChat, and WeChat Mini Programs, which are significantly more advanced in social commerce than their Western counterparts. “There’s so much to learn from China’s digital ecosystem, and we’re eager to integrate those lessons over the coming years,” Blahnik says. The current economic environment also presents challenges. An economic downturn and declining consumer confidence have impacted even major players like Kering and LVMH, and several brands, including Machine-A and Off-White, have recently exited the Chinese market. In response, Manolo Blahnik is focusing on careful investment, measured expansion, and localized strategies to ensure sustainable success.

Manolo Blahnik enters China with measured strategy

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Published October 31, 2024

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Manolo Blahnik enters China with measured strategy