China’s take on Simone Bellotti as Jil Sander’s new designer

What happened OTB Group-owned Jil Sander has named Simone Bellotti as the brand’s new creative director, effective immediately. Bellotti joins the Italian luxury group after a brief stint as creative director at Bally, and he brings nearly two decades of experience, including a 16-year tenure at Gucci. His resume also includes roles at A.F. Vandevorst, Gianfranco Ferré, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bottega Veneta. Raised in Milan and later immersed in Antwerp’s avant-garde fashion scene, Bellotti has built a reputation for meticulous craftsmanship and an appreciation for archival references. The Meier era: A commercial success story Bellotti’s appointment follows the departure of Lucie and Luke Meier, who spent eight years at the brand, steering its commercial renaissance. Under their leadership, Jil Sander’s annual revenue nearly doubled to around 400 million euros ($415 million), thanks in part to a substantial rise in younger consumers. They introduced softer silhouettes and strategic color expansions, which fueled sales growth, particularly in accessories. Notably, their Moon bag became a best-seller, contributing nearly 30% of the brand’s revenue with global sales surpassing 500,000 units. The Jing Take Bellotti’s appointment signals a strategic pivot for Jil Sander, but observers are divided on what his vision might bring. While he is a seasoned designer with extensive luxury experience, his relatively low profile and Bally’s lack of major creative breakthroughs during his tenure raise questions about whether he can maintain Jil Sander’s momentum. On the other hand, his meticulous, research-driven approach could align well with the brand’s minimalist heritage, offering a fresh take on refinement. Jil Sander’s decision to appoint a lesser-expected candidate is refreshing in an industry where major houses often cycle through the same names. However, the move also highlights luxury fashion’s lack of female creative leadership — an issue increasingly scrutinized by the industry and consumers alike. Competitive pressures from luxury’s biggest players Beyond creative considerations, OTB Group is under pressure to secure Jil Sander’s growth trajectory. The luxury conglomerate is contending with industry heavyweights LVMH and Kering, both of which are aggressively expanding their brand portfolios. According to a Morgan Stanley report, 78% of luxury acquisitions in 2024 involved brands with annual revenues under 500 million euros ($542 million), a category that includes Jil Sander. Should Bellotti’s tenure fail to sustain profitability, OTB may have to attempt a strategic recalibration, or external suitors may come calling. Chinese consumers react to Bellotti’s appointment Chinese social media reacted to the appointment news with mixed opinions. While some acknowledge Bellotti’s extensive background, others express skepticism over his ability to build brand relevance. “He’s certainly experienced. But Bally didn’t have any major highlights under him, and while his aesthetic aligns with Jil Sander’s, there are concerns about the brand’s direction,” Weibo user NeilWangJingchang (@Neil王静昌) commented. “Compared to the previous rumors about Daniel Lee, I think Simone is a better fit in terms of design, advertising visuals, and overall aesthetics. I also really liked the past few seasons he did at Bally,” wrote @IDest. Others speculated on the implications for former Burberry creative director Lee. “Jil Sander’s new director is confirmed — what about our Daniel Lee?” Weibo user @CiciMang wrote. The sentiment was echoed by @Dear_Sodacupid: “So, where is Daniel going then?” Bellotti’s appointment may not generate the headline buzz as some of his higher-profile peers, but it positions Jil Sander for a longer-term narrative. His challenge now is to prove that an outside-the-usual-suspects approach can redefine modern minimalism while sustaining the commercial success of his predecessors. The Jing Take reports on a piece of the leading news and presents our editorial team’s analysis of the key implications for the luxury industry. In the recurring column, we analyze everything from product drops and mergers to heated debate sprouting on Chinese social media.

China reacts to Jil Sander’s new designer

Upgrade to Pro

Sectors

Insights

Company

China reacts to Jil Sander’s new designer